PCV Breather Cleaning Adventure/Cam Seals

[howardc64]

I never replace the long L pipe that goes back to the turbo. It is expensive and requires messing with the coolant. It is the PCV nipple at the both ends that gets clogged rather than the pipe itself.

I've never "replaced" the nipple, just cleaning it (use a nail/drill bit to clear any blockage inside the nipple fitting)s Here is what is looks like



I've also never bothed with the PCV nipple near the turbo. But given it appears to be the same design as the one on the intake manifold, I probably should have

Reassembling the bolt that holds this nipple onto the intake manifold is where its tricky and Volvo calls for disassembly of PS, Alternator and AC. The link I gave previously has a nice trick that avoids this.

[lorenfrench]

Thanks guys. Howard, the cam lock goes on the rear side of the cam shaft. I presume one pops off the round cap and the slotted shaft is right there waiting to be secured. Volvo didn't want this to be easy so on the exhaust camshaft they mounted the engine mount and associated brackets. That all has to come off as I see it to mount this tool to prevent the cam from moving. It's basically a flat bar steel with two fittings that go into the slotted ends of the camshaft the bar is mounted to the block. The camshaft can't move then. Problem is Volvo wants $260. for a one use tool. I will probably waste more time looking for it and I could resell it afterward I guess. Maybe we can start a loaner tool service on the site!

[howardc64]

Thanks guys. Howard, the cam lock goes on the rear side of the cam shaft. I presume one pops off the round cap and the slotted shaft is right there waiting to be secured. Volvo didn't want this to be easy so on the exhaust camshaft they mounted the engine mount and associated brackets. That all has to come off as I see it to mount this tool to prevent the cam from moving. It's basically a flat bar steel with two fittings that go into the slotted ends of the camshaft the bar is mounted to the block. The camshaft can't move then. Problem is Volvo wants $260. for a one use tool. I will probably waste more time looking for it and I could resell it afterward I guess. Maybe we can start a loaner tool service on the site!

Ah, I see, Volvo tool to lock the cam from the rear.

Here is a thought for you. On 01, only the exhaust cam is CVVT. Intake side has no CVVT and no variable rotational angle. On the 3 timing belt job I did (01 V70 T5 2.3T, 01 V70XC 2.4T, 02 V70XC 2.4T), both cams didn't move when I had the belt off and they didn't necessary want to move easily when the belt was going back on. Therefore, I didn't lock it.

You might consider just taking off the belt, remove the intake cam gear (mark it to the cam so it goes back in the same rotational angle). Even if the cam rotates slightly during your seal job, putting the cam gear back on and align it to the top cover's alignment marks will get you back in alignment. Counting teeth between the cam gear alignment marks and their alignment to the top cover would pretty much get you dead on.

Now how to remove those 3 bolts on the intake cam gear without a Volvo counter hold tool... I'm not sure using crank shaft + old timing belt itself can provide enough counter hold force. Maybe someone has some ideas

[Jeremy]

Thanks guys. Howard, the cam lock goes on the rear side of the cam shaft. I presume one pops off the round cap and the slotted shaft is right there waiting to be secured. Volvo didn't want this to be easy so on the exhaust camshaft they mounted the engine mount and associated brackets. That all has to come off as I see it to mount this tool to prevent the cam from moving. It's basically a flat bar steel with two fittings that go into the slotted ends of the camshaft the bar is mounted to the block. The camshaft can't move then. Problem is Volvo wants $260. for a one use tool. I will probably waste more time looking for it and I could resell it afterward I guess. Maybe we can start a loaner tool service on the site!

For the timing belt you don't need the lock tool. As long as the marks on the cam gears are aligned to the crank gear all will be well. Not a bad idea to count the teeth on the belt either. You don't need to align the cams only the gears to the belt.

As far as the cam seal you can do the non variable timing gear one easily see my write up here:
http://www.volvoxc.com/forums/showth...acement-how-to

The other one is a little more difficult. I've been waiting three years to do it. If Ican lock the cam securely its a no brainier. If the cam moves your f'ed.

Jeremy

[lorenfrench]

Thanks Jeremy. I cleaned the PCV breather system and put it all back together. It seems that the leak on the intake cam has stopped now. Is that possible? I already have the replacement seal, do you think I should just go ahead with it since I've got my head into this motor?

[howardc64]

Perhaps just watch it closely? Not too hard to just remove the serpentine belt and the timing belt cover periodically for a quick check. Of course if it does leak, it could oil up your timing belt again.

[lorenfrench]

I had the timing belt replaced at 220k so it only has 25k on it. Because it got pretty wet from oil but looks perfect still, should I still change it?

[JRL]

Yep
If it's oily it's no good anymore

[howardc64]

if you do change the TB, doing that cam seal is probably a good idea since you are already near there. That is assuming you have a counterhold solution to loosen the cam gear bolts and are either comfortable without locking the cam or locking it from the rear.