Need Help!

[Maneo]

Hi. I'm wondering if I can gain any help with a problem that has developed with my 04 xc.

Here's the short version of the story.....

-Bought car and it drove good (I'm new to Volvo at this point)
-Months later I got engine light. 2 codes: Turbo Control Valve & Fuel leakage pump.
-Mechanic says to do TCV and leave Pump as it doesn't affect too much and won't hurt anything. (Volvo specialist)
-Replaced TCV w/Volvo part and WOW!!! Car drove WAY better than ever since I've owned it! Effortless peddle w/tons of power at any rpm.
-A week or two later, engine light. (assumably the Leakage pump again)
-A day or two later (I commute 45 min each day) I notice sluggish response needing tons more peddle and minimal power under 3000rpm
-Also, the car will increase rpm under heavier acceleration and then the revs drop for a second or two around 3500-4000rpm and I'm still on the gas.
-Acceleration from 65km/hr to 100 km/hr is useless. Passing sucks!

So... I've been back to get a code scan and it's only the leakage pump which shouldn't affect power. Mechanic says he doesn't know what to tell me. He drove it and found it was fine. It's not! My wife drives an automatic Pontiac Vibe which the Volvo easily out preformed... not the other day... I get no response from it until it winds up past 4000 rpm.

I've read about replacing the hoses on the TCV and using aftermarket IPD but my mechanic said he's never seen the hoses on an xc cause any grief and that the TCV would give a code if acting up. Not sure where to turn cause I don't feel like going to the $DEALER$.

Any similar problems out there????

Thanks for your help!

[KingKongV70xc]

Try to unplug the MAFS(mass air flow sensor) and start it if it runs a little better and doesn't lag real bad at low rpm it probably bad sensor.Don't drive like this for days just to get you home if it stalls or to trouble shoot. . mine has done that twice but it got worse and started to stall. I bought new sensor (autopartswarehouse.com) for around $98 make sure to get one with good warranty. Runs great after put new one on but you can try cleaning it first with MAF SENSOR CLEANER available at any auto parts store for around $8 to $10 but didn't work for me. It will not throw code for MAFS if its going out. Good luck hopefully cleaning it works for you.

[Maneo]

I'll look in to the MAFS thingy and see if it helps. Would there not be a code/engine light if it was acting up. This is what bugs me about the whole 'code' thing... If there isn't a code you can't find the problem??? I doubt that. There is obviously a problem and yet there's no code in my car. Wish my mechanic was a little more motivated to find the issue than only a scan and drive. On the other hand, I'm not a mechanic

[KingKongV70xc]

I have had same problem 2 times and out wouldn't throw a code at all but when I changed MAF it fixed problem but like I said try to clean MAF with MAF sensor cleaner available at any auto parts store. The MAF is located just off the air box. There are many threads on this forum to show you how to clean it. That would be my best bet and its easy to change with a flat head and the right size torx bit think its a t25 but not positive takes only a few minutes to take off

[Maneo]

I also notice that the problem doesn't arise until the car has been run for about 15 minutes. At first it seems okay. Once warm though, it really bags down. Trying to accelerate from 80 to 120km it stayed in same gear from about 3000 to 5000 rpm and it took forever. Peddle to the floor and seemed to take 10 seconds to get from 95 to 105km. That's not normal. May go to dealer to diagnose cause I have smooth idle and no starting issues ever. Other than lack of power once warm, no issues. If you drove it like a grand ma, you'd never know there was a problem. Just don't try and pass someone!

[dpaton]

Some MAF sensors have heaters in them. I don't know if this car has that style but they only take a minute to stabilize.

Sounds like a flakey Turbo Control Valve (TCV) or bad vacuum lines to me.