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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Pretoria, South Africa
    Posts
    318

    Default Alternator (overrun) clutch

    This is a strange one ... I had noticed a rythmic growling noice when my car is cold and idling ... sounds like a bearing grumble but much louder and not contant i.e. what I can describe as "rythmic". Took it to my dealer for a diagnosis and was told that it was either the serperntine belt tensioner but more likely (because of the rythmic sound) the alternator's overrun clutch. The fix is a new altornator ... (a new alternator is about 30% more expensive than the overrun clutch alone, and on a car with 125.000 miles, replacement of the complete alternator is "recommended". Labour is about three times the time to fit the new overrun clutch compared to just fitting a new alternator, so the cost difference is not that much: about $70 - $80).

    Has anybody heard of this before? Is this for real? Is it serious?

    Oh, and the steering fluid resorvoir is leaking ... I need to replace it. I will do a complete steering system flush at the same time.
    Pierre

    2016 V40 D4 AT
    2010 XC60 3.0T AT
    2004 Mazda Miata 1.8 - My new toy and restoration project ... Not everything you do in life has to be rational!

    Gone: 2015 V40 D3 AT, 2002 V70XC 2.4T AT, 2007 S60 2.5T Manual, 2004 S60 2.0T Manual, 1996 850 GLT Manual

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Windy Manitoba
    Posts
    631

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by PierreC View Post
    This is a strange one ... I had noticed a rythmic growling noice when my car is cold and idling ... sounds like a bearing grumble but much louder and not contant i.e. what I can describe as "rythmic". Took it to my dealer for a diagnosis and was told that it was either the serperntine belt tensioner but more likely (because of the rythmic sound) the alternator's overrun clutch. The fix is a new altornator ... (a new alternator is about 30% more expensive than the overrun clutch alone, and on a car with 125.000 miles, replacement of the complete alternator is "recommended". Labour is about three times the time to fit the new overrun clutch compared to just fitting a new alternator, so the cost difference is not that much: about $70 - $80).

    Has anybody heard of this before? Is this for real? Is it serious?

    Oh, and the steering fluid resorvoir is leaking ... I need to replace it. I will do a complete steering system flush at the same time.
    I had never heard of an overrunning clutch used in an alternator before. A quick google told me that they do indeed exist - whether the XC alternator has this clutch is unknown to me.

    I can tell you for sure that a bad stator in the alternator can make a rhythmic growling noise.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Fort Worth Texas or thereabouts
    Posts
    400

    Default

    Overrunning clutches are in a high percentage of alternators on new vehicles. Volvo has been using them for 14 years, maybe more.
    They are used because the rotor in the alternator has a lot of mass and the engine rotational speed changes that occur several times per crank revolution make the serpentine belt get more abuse and the belt tension is in constant motion. With the overrunning clutch the rotor can overspeed the engine for the einstant when cranks slows for compression stroke after having been accelerated by the crank speed up from cylinder combustion.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Pretoria, South Africa
    Posts
    318

    Default

    Thanks MacNoob & cattlecar

    The diagnosis therefore seems fair and I will order a new alternator.

    I wonder ... is there a simple test to confirm it is in fact the alternator that is going?
    Pierre

    2016 V40 D4 AT
    2010 XC60 3.0T AT
    2004 Mazda Miata 1.8 - My new toy and restoration project ... Not everything you do in life has to be rational!

    Gone: 2015 V40 D3 AT, 2002 V70XC 2.4T AT, 2007 S60 2.5T Manual, 2004 S60 2.0T Manual, 1996 850 GLT Manual

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Windy Manitoba
    Posts
    631

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by PierreC View Post

    I wonder ... is there a simple test to confirm it is in fact the alternator that is going?
    It will be obvious once the alternator is removed and put on an alternator testing machine. If you have time and the local resources you might consider removing the alt and taking it to an alternator rebuilder.

    I know the last bad one I had (not Volvo) was a rebuilt unit right out of the box, identified as bad stator at the local shop.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Fort Worth Texas or thereabouts
    Posts
    400

    Default

    I would start with belt removal and inspection of the tensioner and fixed idlers to make sure they are not the cause.
    The overrunning clutch should be smooth when it is reverse rotated. To do this turn the alternator clockwise sharply and then hold the pulley. The rotor of alternator should turn freely with no coarse feeling when it is overrunning.
    The alternator should continue to spin CW when you stop pulley due to the overrunnng clutch.

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