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  1. #21
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Michigan, USA
    Posts
    460

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    Quote Originally Posted by 2002V70XC View Post
    Thanks!
    I'm going to try this 14mm rubber bushing instead of the Energy Suspension poly bushes because I don't have a bench grinder:
    http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/261644019...84.m1497.l2649
    Anyone have any results to report with these rubber bushings from Latvia?

    Here is another ebay link.

    These would seem to be the least hassle way to make this repair provided they are direct replacement, durable and quiet.
    '04 XC70, Ash Gold / Taupe, Premium, Touring, Tinted Rear Glass, Rear Skyddsplåt, Wing Profile Load Bars, USA Spec 11,
    StonGard Light Protection, Yokohama YK740 GTXs, Meyle HD Sway Bar Links, ipd HD TCV, subframe & top brace poly bushing inserts,
    TitaniumTim XC Cup-holder Coasters.

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Canberra, Australia
    Posts
    278

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    Quote Originally Posted by Pennhaven View Post
    Anyone have any results to report with these rubber bushings from Latvia?

    Here is another ebay link.

    These would seem to be the least hassle way to make this repair provided they are direct replacement, durable and quiet.
    I bought them but I haven't fitted them in yet. This is because I'm afraid that it might not be a perfect fit and I would need to modify it to fit. My car is a daily driver car so I wouldn't want to take the risk of waiting for parts if the ones I bought don't fit. Plus I'm out of DIY field for a while due to an ACL surgery.
    2002 V70XC Cross Country 178k (km)
    young stubborn guy with his wagon
    Service Logs: http://tinyurl.com/o9fld84

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Michigan, USA
    Posts
    460

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 2002V70XC View Post
    I bought them but I haven't fitted them in yet. This is because I'm afraid that it might not be a perfect fit and I would need to modify it to fit. My car is a daily driver car so I wouldn't want to take the risk of waiting for parts if the ones I bought don't fit. Plus I'm out of DIY field for a while due to an ACL surgery.
    OK. Thanks. Sorry re. your injury.

    So I guess you haven't been under the car to compare the replacement bushing with the OE, and you're concern about the fit is just your preferring to be cautious?

    BTW, FWIW, I suspect the car would still be reasonably drivable without the rear anti-sway bar bushings. The small 14mm bar, though better than nothing, likely doesn't add all that much stiffness. My guess is that while you'd notice more body roll. it would still get you where you needed to go safely enough, though you'd probably want to avoid high speed cornering.
    '04 XC70, Ash Gold / Taupe, Premium, Touring, Tinted Rear Glass, Rear Skyddsplåt, Wing Profile Load Bars, USA Spec 11,
    StonGard Light Protection, Yokohama YK740 GTXs, Meyle HD Sway Bar Links, ipd HD TCV, subframe & top brace poly bushing inserts,
    TitaniumTim XC Cup-holder Coasters.

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Canberra, Australia
    Posts
    278

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Pennhaven View Post
    OK. Thanks. Sorry re. your injury.

    So I guess you haven't been under the car to compare the replacement bushing with the OE, and you're concern about the fit is just your preferring to be cautious?

    BTW, FWIW, I suspect the car would still be reasonably drivable without the rear anti-sway bar bushings. The small 14mm bar, though better than nothing, likely doesn't add all that much stiffness. My guess is that while you'd notice more body roll. it would still get you where you needed to go safely enough, though you'd probably want to avoid high speed cornering.
    I don't think I would drive my car with the rear sway bar hanging because I could feel the rear being very weak when I hit some sort of bad road joints at >90 km/h. Maybe that was bad body roll already.
    I did get under the car to look at the bushing and brackets and I think I did some measurement too. I couldn't tell if it was going to be a perfect fit and I didn't have tools (grinder + bottle jack) ready. I haven't even cut the bushings to start with.
    The worst case scenario is that you would have to trim the outer rubber so that it would follow the shape of the bracket. Some pictures:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    2002 V70XC Cross Country 178k (km)
    young stubborn guy with his wagon
    Service Logs: http://tinyurl.com/o9fld84

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Michigan, USA
    Posts
    460

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 2002V70XC View Post
    I don't think I would drive my car with the rear sway bar hanging because I could feel the rear being very weak when I hit some sort of bad road joints at >90 km/h. Maybe that was bad body roll already.
    I did get under the car to look at the bushing and brackets and I think I did some measurement too. I couldn't tell if it was going to be a perfect fit and I didn't have tools (grinder + bottle jack) ready. I haven't even cut the bushings to start with.
    The worst case scenario is that you would have to trim the outer rubber so that it would follow the shape of the bracket. Some pictures:
    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	7114Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	7115Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	7116Click image for larger version. 

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    I see what you mean. It definitely looks as though the flange on the outer edge of the bushing protrudes too much to conform with the contour of the bracket. So I'm guessing that these bushings are designed for some other application and require some persuasion to fit here. This might still be easier than Bill's modification of the Energy Suspension poly bushings though, and possibly less prone to squeaking long term, which is what I've unfortunately experienced with Energy Suspension polyurethane bushings in the past. So maybe I'll give these a try. My bar has plenty of surface rust / scale around the driver's side bushing and I wouldn't be surprised it that bushing is soon on the way out. So I'd like to clean up and paint the bar and replace the bushings while I'm at it. The good thing as I see it is that it should be possible to remove the bracket and see if the Latvian sourced bushing can be modified to fit before actually removing the OE bushing from the bar. So the most I hope I might be risking would be the cost of the bushings and some time. On the other hand a new bar would be the foolproof, though much more expensive, answer, so I going to price that out first.

    Thanks again.
    '04 XC70, Ash Gold / Taupe, Premium, Touring, Tinted Rear Glass, Rear Skyddsplåt, Wing Profile Load Bars, USA Spec 11,
    StonGard Light Protection, Yokohama YK740 GTXs, Meyle HD Sway Bar Links, ipd HD TCV, subframe & top brace poly bushing inserts,
    TitaniumTim XC Cup-holder Coasters.

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Canberra, Australia
    Posts
    278

    Default

    if the bracket fits inside area of those flange on the outer edges, that would be perfect. I think my measurement didn't agree with that (this is from memory so don't quote me on that). It should be easy to trim those outer edges though.
    Remember to replace the bolts if you decide to go ahead. There is a post somewhere about this bolt being hard to remove and got broken off while removing.
    Good idea on upgrading the bar! I would love an R bar but I heard its a massive job to replace the rear bar.
    Cheers
    2002 V70XC Cross Country 178k (km)
    young stubborn guy with his wagon
    Service Logs: http://tinyurl.com/o9fld84

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Western Head, Nova Scotia
    Posts
    3,089

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    Quote Originally Posted by Pennhaven View Post
    On the other hand a new bar would be the foolproof, though much more expensive, answer, so I going to price that out first.
    One of the advantages of just replacing the bushings themselves is that you save yourself the hassle of pulling the suspension on one rear corner just to get the anti-roll bar off. That is, if you do the replacement according to VIDA and unless someone has come up with an easier way to do it without having to pull the corner off. The look of these Latvian bushes seem to indicate that they are configured exactly to fit into the brackets. Most anti-roll bar brackets, even OEM, are just flat stock bent into the appropriate shape. Volvo made theirs to be "bulged" as you can see in Pennhaven's pictures. These bushes fit that bulge so as long as the exterior shape is what it should be and you pick the right bar size, they should work great. If my experience is typical, you will probably find that once the bushes are bad enough to demand replacement, they have already separated themselves from the bar and have proceeded to polish the bar in the contact area. When you pull the brackets, the old bushes will nearly fall off so just crawling under the car, undoing a couple of bolts and replacing the bushes is a hell of a lot easier than pulling the whole bat assembly and replacing it.

    Any road, my two cents on the subject.

    Cheers,

    Bill
    Western Head, NS CDN

    '08 BMW 750i (Black Sapphire)-204K kms to-date
    '05 XC70 (Lava Sand)-296K kms to-date
    '02 V70XC-gone @393K kms
    '05 V70R (Magic Blue)-120K mi to-date - gone
    '96 854R (Red)-real CDN-spec 5-speed R - gone @270k kms
    And other Volvos and misc. Euro stuff

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