Angle Gear modification

[Huzer21]

I think they were referring to the 2 bolts that connect the strut/knuckle, not removing the 2 for the ball joint itself.

[Astro14]

Huzer - I don't think I follow you...you mean the big bolts that hold on the knuckle? Because those bolts are used to adjust alignment, you would need an alignment when complete...and I can't recommending that either...

8Pack - which pair of bolts did you mean?

Thanks,

[Huzer21]

I would say based on his answer in the thread he linked to, he did not remove the ball joint in any way (so, yes, and alignment would definitely be in order if it's done this way):

I am not going to go through the details of removing the right axle, but simply, remove wheel, brake caliper and hang on spring out of the way, disconnect spindle from strut (some people disconnect control arm from the spindle, I prefer from the strut).

That said, when I've done work, I've simply separated the ball joint. That's fairly easy and I haven't run in to any issues.

[8pack]

1. The Ball Joint is not connected to the strut in ANY WAY. It is pressed into the control Arm. The control Arm then connects to the spindle via the ball joint and is held in place by a single bolt with a cutout in it to allow the ball joint arm to slide up into the retaining clamp on the spindle.

2. I was referring to the 2 large bolts that connect the spindle to the strut itself. The bolt side is 17MM and the nut side is 18MM. They stare you in the face when sitting in front of the wheel well. I don't see any reason why not to remove these bolts. They merely secure the spindle to the strut and have no meaningful torque benefit like a ball joint, or cylinder head or exhaust manifold might where mating surfaces and bolt stretch are important. If you are worried about the coming loose use blue loctite. I have no concerns. When you pull the spindle away from the strut the strut just hangs there from the upper mounting and is connected to the end link on the left side of it.

3. There is absolutely NO PLAY where those bolts connect and I can't see how alignment would be affected. It is a snug tight fit. There is no way to adjust where the spindle attaches to the strut either up or down or side to side. I have seen no unusual wear on my tires.

4. Disconnect the outer tied rod would also have no on alignment as long as no changes were made to the length of it, you just remove the retaining bolt and pop it out of the spindle socket. It goes straight back in exactly where it was.

I am not saying mine is the only way, it is just another way. For me I found removing the control arm from the spindle to be a PITA and getting the ball joint to come free from the clamped area difficult. I can spin the 2 bolts off in about 1 min........to each his/her own...

Maybe there is a certified tech on here who will correct me...........

[Huzer21]

I'm not knockin' what you did. I've been following these threads with interest, looking to get "lessons learned" as I'm most likely following your course of action as well. I should've pulled the BG out when I replaced the halfshaft last fall.

[cattlecar]

". There is absolutely NO PLAY where those bolts connect and I can't see how alignment would be affected. It is a snug tight fit. There is no way to adjust where the spindle attaches to the strut either up or down or side to side. I have seen no unusual wear on my tires."

Those bolts are where I change camber when aligning the front suspension. The amount of camber adjustment is usually almost 1 degree.
You have to pry to see the motion as the loading of strut put some stress on the connection so the motion is only noticed if you pry the spindle relative to strut. You can have camber off and not always see tire wear.
I use hex keys and insert between strut and spindle and determine which one fits and use that hex key as my gauge on re-assembly.

[8pack]

I stand corrected. When all is sorted out will get an alignement then!

Thanks for the clarification

[Astro14]

Thanks Cattle Car...glad to have you weigh in...

I wasn't clear and I apologize. I said 2 bolts holding balljoint into strut and you're right, I meant into the spindle, which is then bolted into the strut. and it is a press fit, that's why I couldn't picture what you were doing...

This quote, "1. The Ball Joint is not connected to the strut in ANY WAY. It is pressed into the control Arm. The control Arm then connects to the spindle via the ball joint and is held in place by a single bolt with a cutout in it to allow the ball joint arm to slide up into the retaining clamp on the spindle." still confuses me...

Ball joint body is pressed into the knuckle, then held there by two bolts. Ball Joint is bolted to the lower control arm (LCA) by one bolt, with a conical seat. If you disconnect that one bolt to the LCA, you don't disturb the alignment, because the conical seat fits the LCA in exactly the same way each time...right?

We are talking about your 2007, right? It is possible that your 2007 has a different set up than the rest of the P2 Chassis, some later models had the new control arm design...and so, are different than the 2001-2006 and early 2007.

Got a picture you can post?

[bg2128506]

700 miles after the modification, no signs of problems. Sleeve stays in place, no transmission leakage. I put about 300 ml of gear oil into the BG today just to keep it from rusting

[showard8]

4500 Miles after mod, no issues.