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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
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    Denver
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    148

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    I think they were referring to the 2 bolts that connect the strut/knuckle, not removing the 2 for the ball joint itself.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
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    Huzer - I don't think I follow you...you mean the big bolts that hold on the knuckle? Because those bolts are used to adjust alignment, you would need an alignment when complete...and I can't recommending that either...

    8Pack - which pair of bolts did you mean?

    Thanks,
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  3. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Denver
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    148

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    I would say based on his answer in the thread he linked to, he did not remove the ball joint in any way (so, yes, and alignment would definitely be in order if it's done this way):

    I am not going to go through the details of removing the right axle, but simply, remove wheel, brake caliper and hang on spring out of the way, disconnect spindle from strut (some people disconnect control arm from the spindle, I prefer from the strut).

    That said, when I've done work, I've simply separated the ball joint. That's fairly easy and I haven't run in to any issues.
    Last edited by Huzer21; 07-12-2011 at 09:31 AM.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    NJ
    Posts
    623

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    1. The Ball Joint is not connected to the strut in ANY WAY. It is pressed into the control Arm. The control Arm then connects to the spindle via the ball joint and is held in place by a single bolt with a cutout in it to allow the ball joint arm to slide up into the retaining clamp on the spindle.

    2. I was referring to the 2 large bolts that connect the spindle to the strut itself. The bolt side is 17MM and the nut side is 18MM. They stare you in the face when sitting in front of the wheel well. I don't see any reason why not to remove these bolts. They merely secure the spindle to the strut and have no meaningful torque benefit like a ball joint, or cylinder head or exhaust manifold might where mating surfaces and bolt stretch are important. If you are worried about the coming loose use blue loctite. I have no concerns. When you pull the spindle away from the strut the strut just hangs there from the upper mounting and is connected to the end link on the left side of it.

    3. There is absolutely NO PLAY where those bolts connect and I can't see how alignment would be affected. It is a snug tight fit. There is no way to adjust where the spindle attaches to the strut either up or down or side to side. I have seen no unusual wear on my tires.

    4. Disconnect the outer tied rod would also have no on alignment as long as no changes were made to the length of it, you just remove the retaining bolt and pop it out of the spindle socket. It goes straight back in exactly where it was.

    I am not saying mine is the only way, it is just another way. For me I found removing the control arm from the spindle to be a PITA and getting the ball joint to come free from the clamped area difficult. I can spin the 2 bolts off in about 1 min........to each his/her own...

    Maybe there is a certified tech on here who will correct me...........
    2020 Subaru Outback XT - Pearl White Loaded-huge improvement over 2013!
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  5. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Denver
    Posts
    148

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    I'm not knockin' what you did. I've been following these threads with interest, looking to get "lessons learned" as I'm most likely following your course of action as well. I should've pulled the BG out when I replaced the halfshaft last fall.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Fort Worth Texas or thereabouts
    Posts
    400

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    ". There is absolutely NO PLAY where those bolts connect and I can't see how alignment would be affected. It is a snug tight fit. There is no way to adjust where the spindle attaches to the strut either up or down or side to side. I have seen no unusual wear on my tires."

    Those bolts are where I change camber when aligning the front suspension. The amount of camber adjustment is usually almost 1 degree.
    You have to pry to see the motion as the loading of strut put some stress on the connection so the motion is only noticed if you pry the spindle relative to strut. You can have camber off and not always see tire wear.
    I use hex keys and insert between strut and spindle and determine which one fits and use that hex key as my gauge on re-assembly.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    NJ
    Posts
    623

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    I stand corrected. When all is sorted out will get an alignement then!

    Thanks for the clarification
    2020 Subaru Outback XT - Pearl White Loaded-huge improvement over 2013!
    1955 Ford F-250 - 223 IL6, 4 Speed with Granny Gear, 109 HP, 4.88 Rear
    2017 Maserati Ghibli - Blu Emozione - GONE!
    2013 2013 Subaru Outback - charcoal Grey, Eyesight Collision Avoidance 110k miles
    2007 2007 XC70, Barents Blue, Charcoal Leather 215k miles
    1978 Bitchin' Chevrolet Z28 Camaro - Fuel Injected 383ci SB Dyno'd at 452HP 462FT/LBs Torque
    My build thread: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=276139

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    3,874

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    Thanks Cattle Car...glad to have you weigh in...

    I wasn't clear and I apologize. I said 2 bolts holding balljoint into strut and you're right, I meant into the spindle, which is then bolted into the strut. and it is a press fit, that's why I couldn't picture what you were doing...

    This quote, "1. The Ball Joint is not connected to the strut in ANY WAY. It is pressed into the control Arm. The control Arm then connects to the spindle via the ball joint and is held in place by a single bolt with a cutout in it to allow the ball joint arm to slide up into the retaining clamp on the spindle." still confuses me...

    Ball joint body is pressed into the knuckle, then held there by two bolts. Ball Joint is bolted to the lower control arm (LCA) by one bolt, with a conical seat. If you disconnect that one bolt to the LCA, you don't disturb the alignment, because the conical seat fits the LCA in exactly the same way each time...right?

    We are talking about your 2007, right? It is possible that your 2007 has a different set up than the rest of the P2 Chassis, some later models had the new control arm design...and so, are different than the 2001-2006 and early 2007.

    Got a picture you can post?
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
    2005 MB S600 (100K, Michelin AS3+, M1 0W40)
    2002 V70-XC (238K, Castrol Edge 0W40)
    2002 V70-T5 (195K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
    2001 V70-T5 (76K)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  9. #19

    Default

    700 miles after the modification, no signs of problems. Sleeve stays in place, no transmission leakage. I put about 300 ml of gear oil into the BG today just to keep it from rusting

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    UK
    Posts
    10

    Default

    4500 Miles after mod, no issues.

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