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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    NZ
    Posts
    53

    Default V70 XC hand-brake adjustment at the disk

    Does anyone know if there is any other adjustment apart from the cable at the center console for the AWD XC V70. Seems not. It is in the manual for the 98's and early 99's but I've had my wheels off my late '99 and had a good look including removing locating pin but can't see any hole for an adjustment.
    Darn mechanics previously must have used an impact tool on the brake caliper bolts cause I can't budge them with my socket to take off the disk to have a look.
    Chhers.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Calgary, Canada
    Posts
    60

    Default Park brake adjustment

    I can only talk about the 98 XC I have. I could find no info on this and even the dealer couldn't answer it. Fortunately I have a brother who had a 99 V70 and he is a former Mercedes mechanic and he said it is simple. No need to take the brakes off. hopefully this works for you.

    Put the car on stands at the back, pull the wheels. Get a bright torch and shine it through the lug bolt holes at a point between 3 and 5 o'clock slowly move the rotor and you should see the edge of a small cogged wheel. You are looking at it from the side so all you may see is a couple of teeth. Use a narrow long shafted flat screwdriver and poke it through the hole. working from the passenger side rear, turning the wheel up and away from you loosens the shoes and towards you tightens the rod that pushes the shoes out further to allow for wear. (I may have got that backwards).

    Loosen the cables at the park brake lever first, then adjust the shoes until they lock the hub. then back off 2-3 notches until it rotates freely again. Then adjust at the park brake lever to give 4-6 clicks to tight.

    Check the cables are moving good. They have a tendency as they age to break or seize just above the rear axle.

    If the cables are bad, I'll try to check back, but I did right a note some time last year on how to fit the cables.

    Good Luck!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    NZ
    Posts
    53

    Default

    Thanks heaps. I did nearly give up. I did it b4 your reply but glad that you did so. Yep, it took ages to find. I saw a small hint about there being a lug hole position elsewhere on the web; but I had to find the cog sort of 4-5 o'clock on driver side and 7-8 on pass. side. I turned cog anti cw on the driver side and clockwise on the pass. side. That would mean as yuou say about turning it away from you both times. One side of car would be the opposite in that sense.
    The car holds tight and not lopsided or anything. Having the disks moveable means can sort of gauge whether tightening or loosening.
    But, took at least 20 mins to find that cog thru the lug-hole.
    Last edited by andybbrown; 03-31-2011 at 02:38 AM.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    NZ
    Posts
    53

    Default

    To tighten e brake at the shoes turn the cog (shown in photos) towards the front of vehicle, to loosen brake shoes turn the cog back. You will hear the spring as it sits on the cog as every time the spoke of the cog passes under the spring you hear a ring sound. So, you can tell when it turns and you have the driver in the right place. Use a thin flat driver and use it almost on a vertical angle because the cog sits almost horizontal on a line 10 o'clock to 4 o'clock.
    You will find it easier to tighten than to loosen. If you haven't got a light have a feel around through one of the lug holes in the location shown in the photos. The other side is the same mirror image, that is the cog on the other wheel sits also on the forward part of the disc, where the bottom part of the caliper would be when it folds over the top. Hope the photos work..
    Photo 1 shows holding the driver to go in through the hole. I am tightening here just like moving the wrist to flick the cog.
    One little turn at a time is fine. Lock it up then move it back three spring rings. Also establish if you haven't already that the shoes are well seated by giving a whack with your rubber mallet. The shoes can move despite the rotor nut being tight so get those well seated first. Carry on, loosen off a few times to unbind the wheel and check not binding. Tighten just a spring ring before finishing. Do other side. Luckily I could do this easily with my neighbours massive floor jack lifting the arse from under the centre of rear axle. Both wheels have to rotate due to you having to locate the cog through the hole and also to check free spinning of wheel.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by andybbrown; 03-11-2014 at 04:06 PM.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Rugby UK
    Posts
    399

    Default

    I think you should start by slackening off adjustment at handbrake lever (under gaiter) then make the star wheel adjustments, then final at the handbrake.

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