98 XC No Crank - Ignition Switch?

[StoningtonXC70]

Bad day....

Out of blue, car would not turn over. Ignition key did not "feel right". After several cycles of key, car finally turned over and started.

Stopped car at next destination. Again, no turn over on attempt to start. Again, key does not feel "right" - like its not going fully into the "start" position "III".

Checked battery voltage with DVM - full charge - 12.5 V, all lights bright. All connections look good.

Attempt many retries to make it crank - with headlights on, can see that lights go off while attempting to start (not just dim), can also hear a relay cycling on and off with key at start position. The dash idiot lights all stay on at full brightness like they normally do prior to an engine start. Headlights come back on when key released from start. I'm pretty sure that is normal the lights are turned off in the start position. No indication of voltage drop at battery when trying to start that one might expect from a locked up starter motor. Have 12.5 V on main power lead to starter.

During some attempts at starting, note that key is spinning freely around in ignition switch not engaging anything, eventually catches and everything seems to work works except still no starter action. Scary. Stop trying so I don't screw myself out of being able to activate the transmission shift lock override to get to neutral (requires being in position "I") to allow the car to roll for loading on and off the flatbed

Call AAA for flatbed home, while waiting, scope out Haynes starter circuit schematic. Suspect that voltage is not getting to starter solenoid due to either bad ignition switch (most likely, considering the "free spin" of the key), bad transmission PNP switch, or immobilizer circuit problem.

Flatbed guy shows up. He tries cycling the steering column up and down , shakes wheel, cycles switch numerous times. Says this often works on balky Volvo no starts. No start, but now key really spinning around freely more than engaging the ignition switch. Finally it engages enough so we can override the shift lock and get the car on the bed.

Got car home, going to troubleshoot further in the AM (snowing hard tonight). Will start by looking for voltage at the stater solenoid lead (small green lead) at the starter.

Did a search on this topic here on XC70 and on MVS. Looking most like bad tumbler or ignition switch. MVS has good tutorial on changing the switches in the column. From what I have seen regarding the immobilzer circuit, it should let you crank but engine will shut down. The Haynes schematic indicates that the starter inhibit relay needs a ground return through the immobilizer though.

If the infamous immobilizer antenna ring was disconnected in the steering column, would the system let the engine crank or not?

To further troubleshoot this problem, where is the starter inhibitor relay located? If I need a new ignition tumbler/key, am I into dealer involvement to reprogram things to recognize the new key? - if so I would be happy to just bypass the immobilizer circuit.

Any problem with me trying to to a "hotwire" starter circuit at least temporarily to feed 12V directly to the starter solenoid through a push button switch so the car can be started until a permanent repair can be made to the ignition switch/tumbler? I'm thinking this would only work if all of the other engine circuits are properly powered at the run "II" position, though, which may be a problem with the way the switch is behaving mechanically now.

Would appreciate any advice from anyone who has been down this road already....Thanks in advance....

[JRL]

Key spinning?
You need a new ignition lock/cylinder
Have your dealer order one with a YOUR KEY CODE from Sweden, takes about 10 days.
Install is a whole lot of "fun"

[StoningtonXC70]

Yep - that's what it's looking like.

From what I have read, looks like I could order a non key matched tumbler with a new key if I don't mind having a different key for the ignition from the door locks, and the turnaround will be quicker. Need to get it back on the road ASAP.

Lots of folks think that Darryl Waltrip Volvo in TN gives people a fair deal on these. Will call them tomorrow.

It is true that the 98s don't have the immobilizer antenna ring to deal with?

The DIY on this subject on Matthew Volvo Site looks doable - hardest part will be undoing the screws holding the assembly in place.

Thanks for the feedback JRL.

[JRL]

I think they still do, not 100% on that.
I'm also not sure if dealers stock key locks anyway as most want their same key to work everything.
It's not the price of the lock (which isn't cheap), it's the labor to drill out and replace the entire lock, PIA job, not easy.
Not the screws, it's the drilling out portion that's hard.
Waltrip does not ship anymore, call TASCA Volvo for the best on line part prices

[StoningtonXC70]

STARTED! Applied a little extra torque on the key using an adjustable wrench (end on, not length wise) to gain a little more mechanical advantage on the tumbler mechanism. Did three successful starts in a row - didn't take much more force than what I was applying by hand alone - pretty much confirms the tumbler mechanism as the culprit. Must be some excess slop in the clearences in there.

Obviously still going to replace the tumbler but being able to start the car (will do more test starts to build up confidence) means I can at least drive to to and from work in the car for a few days while the parts are in transit.

Extracting those two retainer bolts is going to be a bitxx..looks like I can get a small dremel wheel in there to cut slots for a screwdriver....

[StoningtonXC70]

Ordered a replacement lock assembly through Tasca Ford Volvo last Monday. Only way it was available was one made to work with my existing keys -10 days to get it from Sweden to Tasca and then another day or two to ship it to me. Since I am only about a half hour away from them, asked if I could just come up and pick it up there when it came in to speed things up a bit. They told me no way on an Internet/over the phone order - they would have to charge me "over the counter" price for that...didn't want to go there but sounds like a rip off, so its going to be mailed here. Internet price was 199.00 plus tax and shipping. Priced a replacement lock assembly for my 94 Escort - about 24 bucks....feeling hosed!

Nearly got stuck several times this week when the key would free wheel in the lock after the car sat for a long time. Giving the tumbler a shot of dry lube cleared things up though almost immediately each time. Today, I figured out that leaving the key in the lock seems to prevent it going into free wheel, made multiple stops and starts with no problems as long as the key wasn't removed. Just using another key to lock the doors, have to do so using the extra key from outside the car - pressing the lock button on the door wont work if there is already a key in the ignition. I'm mentioning this as it may be a useful work around for others with this problem until it can be fixed and the car needs to be driven.