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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Devon PA
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    11,409

    Default

    Then you have a bad viscous coupling
    First and easiest thing to do is to remove the propshaft, (driveshaft) if it's quiet in FWD then (unfortunately) that probably is your problem.
    If you have a bad rear axle, then you still should hear the noise and you can narrow it down

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Ithaca NY
    Posts
    76

    Default

    Ugh... that's what I had feared from the beginning. And I know people disconnect the driveshaft and run these cars as FWD with no issues, but I purposefully bought this for the AWD feature. I mentioned earlier that I have an AWD parts car but I also know that these buggers changed to a different style mid-year so they may not be compatible. They do look similar, however. There is a long 'nose' on the front of the axle carrier on the XC that has an exposed bottom where you can see a cylindrical unit which I am assuming is the viscous coupling. I believe the one on the AWD is similar and it drove beautifully with no drive train noise so it would be a great donor. How do I know if they are interchangeable?

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Devon PA
    Posts
    11,409

    Default

    That would be it
    You need to actually have them almost side by side, the input shaft is slightly different and they are not interchangeable.

    PLEASE disconnect the propshaft first to rule out anything else

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Ithaca NY
    Posts
    76

    Default

    OK so when you say 'disconnect' the propshaft, does that mean totally remove it or just unbolt it from the transfer case?

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Ithaca NY
    Posts
    76

    Default

    I've also noticed another noise that I first thought was unrelated, but now I'm not so sure. Initially I thought that it was some sort of vacuum leak that only happened when I let off the throttle. It comes from the rear and I thought that it was possibly from the fuel pump area, maybe a leaking hose. But I was driving it tonight and a friend was sitting back there and I asked him about the noise and he said that it was coming more from the center and that it was a metallic noise, not an air leak noise. Hmmm... maybe a bearing on the prop shaft? Or possibly something with that cursed flux capacitor, er I mean, viscous coupling? Now I need to get back under there and start grabbing stuff and seeing if there's any play noticeable. Then disconnect the prop shaft and see what happens.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Devon PA
    Posts
    11,409

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ylstaffer View Post
    OK so when you say 'disconnect' the propshaft, does that mean totally remove it or just unbolt it from the transfer case?
    Think about what you just wrote here

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Ithaca NY
    Posts
    76

    Default

    I was under the (apparently false) impression that there were carrier bearings holding the prop shaft in place and it could be unbolted from the transfer case without completely removing the shaft. I was not implying that this would be a permanent solution. I've done this numerous times in the past with 4x4 trucks to diagnose driveline noises/vibrations.

    Not sure what I've said here to elicit this series of condescending responses but I'll do us both a favor and look elsewhere for the help I need.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Devon PA
    Posts
    11,409

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    All you do is unbolt the propshaft front and rear and remove the damn thing. 12 bolts 6 ft, 6 rr IRRC
    (Just drops down, weighs only 18 lbs, even I can hold that)!
    Nothing else "holds it in place" except those bolts

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Ithaca NY
    Posts
    76

    Default

    For those of you who have been 'watching' this thread... I got under the XC this morning and unbolted the prop shaft from the transfer case and the rear axle housing and yes, there is a carrier bearing in the center that is also bolted to a bracket (two bolts, one twisted off) that is bolted to the floor (four bolts). I had a devil of a time getting the rear section loose from the axle housing and ended up separating the flex assembly at the end of the shaft, leaving the end most piece that slides into the housing in the housing. But the shaft is out and of course, the used one that I have is the different style (the earlier one), so I'll need to find the correct one now. I did drive the car and the clunk noise is gone, which I expected. However, that does not isolate the issue to the prop shaft, it can still be a bad viscous coupling. I really won't know until I get another prop shaft in there. This job was possible on ramps but I would whole heartedly recommend using a lift.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    NJ
    Posts
    618

    Default Confused - JRL?

    JRL - Other threads i have read have said if you have a clunk and remove the driveshaft and it goes away, then almost certainly it is a bad shaft. One of your prior responses says if you take out the shaft and the clunk goes away it is likely the VC. I know you are man of few words but some enlightenment would be helpful. As you will see from an earlier post i have removed my driveshaft and am running FWD. I had a really loud clunk moving from park to drive/reverser or drive to Reverse.

    I don't want to buy a new driveshaft only to find out it was the VC...too many miles for it to be worth it.

    Thanks in advance....

    2000 XC70
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    1978 Bitchin' Chevrolet Z28 Camaro - Fuel Injected 383ci SB Dyno'd at 452HP 462FT/LBs Torque
    My build thread: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=276139

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