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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Snoqualmie, Washington
    Posts
    163

    Default Removing propshaft- best way

    Thinking about removing propshaft for a couple of reasons: Still have slight vibration/shudder after complete new front end and do a lot of highway driving and don't have much need for AWD at least in the summer so would like to get a little extra MPG.

    The question is what is the easiest way to get it out. VADIS shows removing the exhaust but that may be an over kill. Anyone done this that could give me some tips for removal?

    I suspect that the center/hanger bearing is on it's way out is that available as a repair part?

    Thanks, Jeremy
    2001 V70XC, 2K V70, '87 740 TI Wagon 325K+! (what are the chances of the XC making it to 325K?)

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Devon PA
    Posts
    11,409

    Default

    Jack up and lay under car(or put it on a lift).
    Mark the bolts
    Unbolt the bolts
    Remove the propshaft
    (Weighs only 18 lbs)

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Chocolate Town USA
    Posts
    1,185

    Default

    more detialed ...

    Get someone to help you this will make this job alot easier ...
    Put the car in neutral and use the brakes to hold the shaft in place when removing the bolts

    Remove front bolts
    Remove rear bolts
    Remove 2 center berring bolts
    If you strip any of the tork bolts you will have to grind off the heads to remove them.

    I would suggest buying all new bolts if you remove them.

    Also after all the bolts are removed make sure on either side theres a open hole where there was no screw take a metal pin and hammer and smack it on both front and rear to dislodge the drive shaft from the car .

    The press everythign towards the front of the car and drop it down and remove out the rear of the car .

    only reason you need to remove the exhuast is if you strip one of the alanbolts and need to grind it off.
    2012 Ford Fusion 2004 V70XC 01 V70XC -M66 1998 C70 T5-M66

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Devon PA
    Posts
    11,409

    Default

    To finish what both of us just said
    ALWAYS use new bolts when re-assembled
    Worth buying $12 worth of bolts!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Snoqualmie, Washington
    Posts
    163

    Default

    Got it done today took about an hour from wheels up to wheels down. Thanks again for the info.

    Jeremy
    2001 V70XC, 2K V70, '87 740 TI Wagon 325K+! (what are the chances of the XC making it to 325K?)

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Canberra, Australia
    Posts
    95

    Default

    Years later - Chilled Man's hint about a pin in the "extra" holes was just what I needed for a recalcitrant tailshaft. (OK, prop shaft for those across the Pacific. One of those little linguistic differences which can making searching car forums such an adventure.) This forum is gold

    I'm in the middle of replacing my turbo. Next stop the angle gear. This job has been a b*****d from the beginning. To add to the fun, the car is right hand drive so the brake booster is very close to the turbo, and made removing the heat shield that bit harder.
    Myzomela http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scarlet_Honeyeater
    1973 164 -> 1974 145+M41 -> 2001 V70XC & 1998 S40 2.0T+M56

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Connecticut, US
    Posts
    274

    Default

    What pin? Could you elaborate? I'm in the middle of removing the propshaft and just couldn't get the rear joint off the flange. There are 4 extra holes in the back (2 threaded 2 unthreaded) and I've been punching through the 2 unthreaded holes to no avail. Thanks!

    DYZ
    2005 Volvo XC70, Ash Gold, 198K miles

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Posts
    1,144

    Default

    Use bolts in the threaded holes. M8x20 with allen head if my memory does not lie, but it lies often...
    2002 V70 (sold)
    2005 XC70 (Telos Road took it. Did a chassis swap)
    2016 XC60

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Connecticut, US
    Posts
    274

    Default

    Thanks, vtl. I think M8x20 is the right size, but I don't have a good counterhold to keep the shaft still. I'll get a good strap wrench to give it another try. I do have the front loose, so I'm now trying to take out the beavel gear first. Hmm, that bolt in the back of the beavel gear doesn't look easy to take out...

    DYZ
    2005 Volvo XC70, Ash Gold, 198K miles

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Connecticut, US
    Posts
    274

    Default

    Well, I broke the M8x20 screw head off when it hit the back of the joint. So that option is out of the door. Using a mirror I can also see a deep dent created by all the poundings through the unthreaded hole. I'm not sure any more poundings would make a difference. Any other options? I think I may have to cut the shaft at the narrow part just before the joint and screw back the leftover joint.

    DYZ
    Last edited by DYZ; 07-11-2016 at 07:50 PM.
    2005 Volvo XC70, Ash Gold, 198K miles

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