Removing propshaft- best way

[Jeremy]

Thinking about removing propshaft for a couple of reasons: Still have slight vibration/shudder after complete new front end and do a lot of highway driving and don't have much need for AWD at least in the summer so would like to get a little extra MPG.

The question is what is the easiest way to get it out. VADIS shows removing the exhaust but that may be an over kill. Anyone done this that could give me some tips for removal?

I suspect that the center/hanger bearing is on it's way out is that available as a repair part?

Thanks, Jeremy

[JRL]

Jack up and lay under car(or put it on a lift).
Mark the bolts
Unbolt the bolts
Remove the propshaft
(Weighs only 18 lbs)

[Chilled Man]

more detialed ...

Get someone to help you this will make this job alot easier ...
Put the car in neutral and use the brakes to hold the shaft in place when removing the bolts

Remove front bolts
Remove rear bolts
Remove 2 center berring bolts
If you strip any of the tork bolts you will have to grind off the heads to remove them.

I would suggest buying all new bolts if you remove them.

Also after all the bolts are removed make sure on either side theres a open hole where there was no screw take a metal pin and hammer and smack it on both front and rear to dislodge the drive shaft from the car .

The press everythign towards the front of the car and drop it down and remove out the rear of the car .

only reason you need to remove the exhuast is if you strip one of the alanbolts and need to grind it off.

[JRL]

To finish what both of us just said
ALWAYS use new bolts when re-assembled
Worth buying $12 worth of bolts!

[Jeremy]

Got it done today took about an hour from wheels up to wheels down. Thanks again for the info.

Jeremy

[myzomela]

Years later - Chilled Man's hint about a pin in the "extra" holes was just what I needed for a recalcitrant tailshaft. (OK, prop shaft for those across the Pacific. One of those little linguistic differences which can making searching car forums such an adventure.) This forum is gold

I'm in the middle of replacing my turbo. Next stop the angle gear. This job has been a b*****d from the beginning. To add to the fun, the car is right hand drive so the brake booster is very close to the turbo, and made removing the heat shield that bit harder.

[DYZ]

What pin? Could you elaborate? I'm in the middle of removing the propshaft and just couldn't get the rear joint off the flange. There are 4 extra holes in the back (2 threaded 2 unthreaded) and I've been punching through the 2 unthreaded holes to no avail. Thanks!

DYZ

[vtl]

Use bolts in the threaded holes. M8x20 with allen head if my memory does not lie, but it lies often...

[DYZ]

Thanks, vtl. I think M8x20 is the right size, but I don't have a good counterhold to keep the shaft still. I'll get a good strap wrench to give it another try. I do have the front loose, so I'm now trying to take out the beavel gear first. Hmm, that bolt in the back of the beavel gear doesn't look easy to take out...

DYZ

[DYZ]

Well, I broke the M8x20 screw head off when it hit the back of the joint. So that option is out of the door. Using a mirror I can also see a deep dent created by all the poundings through the unthreaded hole. I'm not sure any more poundings would make a difference. Any other options? I think I may have to cut the shaft at the narrow part just before the joint and screw back the leftover joint.

DYZ