You'll have to, there's no cure.
No part for the middle joint except a new or rebuilt propshaft
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You'll have to, there's no cure.
No part for the middle joint except a new or rebuilt propshaft
JRL,
Do you have a paypal account? Let me know on how I should pay you for the seat heater switch.
Today I'm going to replace the thermostat as the temp gauge is hunting. I'm thinking it's the culprit as the car gets to the 3 o'clock position then after driving awhile, it drops down to 5 o'clock. I'm also gonna order the bushing for the top engine mount. I have read that these will fail again after 60-70K miles and that theres an aftermarket square mount that is much better. I think I'll just replace the bushing for now though.
Make sure you buy a coolant temp sensor at the same time.
Please ask me tonight about the switch, let me make sure I still have it!
I ended up just cleaning the coolant temp sensor and replacing the thermostat and the coolant level sensor that's in the bottom of the overflow tank.
It took care of the fluctuating temperature gauge and also heat.
I do hear a noise coming out of what I thought was the power steering pump til I put a stethoscope on it and turns out it's not the power steering pump. I'm wondering if the culprit isn't the tensioner pulley within the serpentine belt.
Any clues to as this?
JRL: I'll get with you tis evening on the switch..
Some of these noises can be a SOB to find.
On my project S70T5 I've replaced lirterally EVERY belt and tensioner on the car, even the PS pump as we were SURE it was that and it STILL at times makes this fuc**g *&&*%#&*% horrible noise.
95%, no 98% of the time it's very smooth, very quiet and very fast, but all of a sudden this horrible noise starts for 5 minutes or so, then just goes away for the rest of the day.
Hot, cold, doesn't matter!
The only thing left are the alternator and the AC compressor pulleys.
So good luck with this, hopefully you will find it on the first try
HA, yer killin me. I should've known these dreaded noises can never be sought after. I would love to pinpoint it first before replacing part after part. It definitely sounds like bearings are going out wherever it's coming from.
So far the repairs have been cheap and painless, although this diagnosis sounds like it could be a tricky one!
Got your switch, call me
After researching the ETM and the website, XeMODeX that rebuilds the ETM, I find it unacceptable of Volvo to limit this warranty to 10 years/200k miles on a part that will continue to fail upon replacement. I also find it ironic that a car company that used to be (unclear if they are in present day) #1 in safety ratings back in the 80's would avoid responsibility on this problem as it could cause a fatal accident with the vehicle going into limp mode on the highway.
I remember my first 240 DL back in 1989 and the reputation they had for safety.
It took a class action lawsuit for them to deal with this issue? I think at best they should hook up with XeMODeX and agree to pay for this rebuilt at half the price as the OEM Volvo ETM. The XeMODeX clearly fixes the issue of the ETM by adding a digital angle sensor that deletes the copper wire component scraping against a fagile film of carbon paint, only to wear out within time compromising the ability for the systems to communicate.
This post is based on principle and not the money involved to fix. It's about a car company that devalues their character by avoiding responsibility, only to be rectified by a class action lawsuit. Thanks BefinFBK for the heads up on this thread about XeMODeX.
2000 V70 XC SE
165,000 miles and runs great.
Total repair costs over last 65 months: $720 (about 1.5 car payments);
Best single tank mileage ever: 32.8; Average mileage: 22.2; City: 18
After driving the ca' for a couple of weeks I had the CEL come on. Pulled codes and got a P0302 (misfire in hole 2) and a P0455- Evaporative Emission Leak, the second not worrying me as much as the first code I'll have to say.
I swapped coil packs 2 and 1, to see if it was the pack but still got a misfire in hole 2. I'm gonna buy some plugs from Volvo today but I suspect plugs aren't the issue.
Should I try swapping injector 1 and 2 to see if it's that? I also am looking at the wires going to the coils and some have add'l black electrical tape around them. I'm wondering if I'm not getting a bare wire arcing somewhere. I don't see any arc marks on top though.
Any thoughts? I probably need to do a compression check on hole 2 which would ease my mind as I'm hoping I don't have internal engine issues.
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