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  1. #21
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Devon PA
    Posts
    11,409

    Default

    You'll have to, there's no cure.
    No part for the middle joint except a new or rebuilt propshaft

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    midwest
    Posts
    28

    Default

    JRL,

    Do you have a paypal account? Let me know on how I should pay you for the seat heater switch.

    Today I'm going to replace the thermostat as the temp gauge is hunting. I'm thinking it's the culprit as the car gets to the 3 o'clock position then after driving awhile, it drops down to 5 o'clock. I'm also gonna order the bushing for the top engine mount. I have read that these will fail again after 60-70K miles and that theres an aftermarket square mount that is much better. I think I'll just replace the bushing for now though.

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Devon PA
    Posts
    11,409

    Default

    Make sure you buy a coolant temp sensor at the same time.

    Please ask me tonight about the switch, let me make sure I still have it!

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    midwest
    Posts
    28

    Default

    I ended up just cleaning the coolant temp sensor and replacing the thermostat and the coolant level sensor that's in the bottom of the overflow tank.

    It took care of the fluctuating temperature gauge and also heat.

    I do hear a noise coming out of what I thought was the power steering pump til I put a stethoscope on it and turns out it's not the power steering pump. I'm wondering if the culprit isn't the tensioner pulley within the serpentine belt.

    Any clues to as this?

    JRL: I'll get with you tis evening on the switch..

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Devon PA
    Posts
    11,409

    Default

    Some of these noises can be a SOB to find.
    On my project S70T5 I've replaced lirterally EVERY belt and tensioner on the car, even the PS pump as we were SURE it was that and it STILL at times makes this fuc**g *&&*%#&*% horrible noise.

    95%, no 98% of the time it's very smooth, very quiet and very fast, but all of a sudden this horrible noise starts for 5 minutes or so, then just goes away for the rest of the day.
    Hot, cold, doesn't matter!

    The only thing left are the alternator and the AC compressor pulleys.

    So good luck with this, hopefully you will find it on the first try

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    midwest
    Posts
    28

    Default

    HA, yer killin me. I should've known these dreaded noises can never be sought after. I would love to pinpoint it first before replacing part after part. It definitely sounds like bearings are going out wherever it's coming from.

    So far the repairs have been cheap and painless, although this diagnosis sounds like it could be a tricky one!

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Devon PA
    Posts
    11,409

    Default

    Got your switch, call me

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    midwest
    Posts
    28

    Default

    After researching the ETM and the website, XeMODeX that rebuilds the ETM, I find it unacceptable of Volvo to limit this warranty to 10 years/200k miles on a part that will continue to fail upon replacement. I also find it ironic that a car company that used to be (unclear if they are in present day) #1 in safety ratings back in the 80's would avoid responsibility on this problem as it could cause a fatal accident with the vehicle going into limp mode on the highway.

    I remember my first 240 DL back in 1989 and the reputation they had for safety.
    It took a class action lawsuit for them to deal with this issue? I think at best they should hook up with XeMODeX and agree to pay for this rebuilt at half the price as the OEM Volvo ETM. The XeMODeX clearly fixes the issue of the ETM by adding a digital angle sensor that deletes the copper wire component scraping against a fagile film of carbon paint, only to wear out within time compromising the ability for the systems to communicate.

    This post is based on principle and not the money involved to fix. It's about a car company that devalues their character by avoiding responsibility, only to be rectified by a class action lawsuit. Thanks BefinFBK for the heads up on this thread about XeMODeX.

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    NC
    Posts
    142

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Rew177 View Post
    Only buy this car if you can fix cars, enjoy fixing cars, have a lot of free time and money. I have a 98 v70xc with 168k and I enjoy it, but lately I been spending an average of $200 a month on parts. That's a car payment, but I send it to the parts store instead of the bank.

    Here's a list of things I've replaced over the last 6 months

    rebuilt drive shaft - $350
    Heater core - $150
    timing belt + tensioner - $150
    water pump- $65
    PCV - $100
    Brake master cylinder - $200
    upper engine mount - $30
    MAF- $170
    Trans flush - $70
    air and fuel filter
    AC has to be recharged 2 or 3x's during summer

    These are all common things to go a high mileage XC and they add up.

    In addition to that add $300 for small random parts, hoses, universal stuff from auto parts store, shipping and specialty tools.

    After all this the car still has 10 feet of brittle vacuum lines under the hood, needs rear brakes soon, needs rear shocks now, needs tires soon, entire exhaust is original and very rusty. Just want to let you know what you're getting your self into.
    On the other hand I've spent about $165 total in repairs on my 2000 XC70 over the past eighteen months. It will need a heater core before next winter though, ehhh.
    2000 V70 XC SE
    165,000 miles and runs great.
    Total repair costs over last 65 months: $720 (about 1.5 car payments);
    Best single tank mileage ever: 32.8; Average mileage: 22.2; City: 18

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    midwest
    Posts
    28

    Default

    After driving the ca' for a couple of weeks I had the CEL come on. Pulled codes and got a P0302 (misfire in hole 2) and a P0455- Evaporative Emission Leak, the second not worrying me as much as the first code I'll have to say.

    I swapped coil packs 2 and 1, to see if it was the pack but still got a misfire in hole 2. I'm gonna buy some plugs from Volvo today but I suspect plugs aren't the issue.

    Should I try swapping injector 1 and 2 to see if it's that? I also am looking at the wires going to the coils and some have add'l black electrical tape around them. I'm wondering if I'm not getting a bare wire arcing somewhere. I don't see any arc marks on top though.

    Any thoughts? I probably need to do a compression check on hole 2 which would ease my mind as I'm hoping I don't have internal engine issues.

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