Very stuck wheel bolts

[Willy]

On very hard to remove bolts or nuts, I always try to use a tool that applies torque in a symmetrical way.
On wheel bolts, I always use a 4-way wrench of a decent quality to loosen the bolts, like this one:
https://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...7645_200347645
I never use any kind of grease on wheel bolts or nuts.
Since I swap wheels every winter and summer, they never get the chance to seize up.
If someone else tighthens the wheel bolts, I either see that he or she uses a torque wrench with the
correct setting and if that is not possible, I check all bolts with a torque key first thing when I get home.

[Thang Vora]

Wow! This thread started back in 09, but I saw some reply in 17 and even yesterday, so I decide to joint the party; I once have a tire place over torque my wheels and didn't know, until I work on my brakes, you guess what! Even I used 6ft pipe it wouldn't budged, I have to drive the car back to the place to have them loose the lug nuts, I think they worry of liability for the wheels come off that's why they always over torque them. For me; I only used the anti-seized compound on the contacted surface between wheel and hub or rotor, for tighten the lug nuts; after tighten them on jack stand, I lower the car on the ground, used 2ft pipe on breaker bar, re-tighten each bolt till the car wiggle back and fort, never had the problem to remove them, but one time I forgot to re-tighten one wheel after lowed the car down, it happen like Duncan had, the wheel almost come off on the highway, since then always remind myself to check and re-tighten the nuts.

[albertj]

Wow! This thread started back in 09, but I saw some reply in 17 and even yesterday, so I decide to joint the party; I once have a tire place over torque my wheels and didn't know, until I work on my brakes, you guess what! Even I used 6ft pipe it wouldn't budged, I have to drive the car back to the place to have them loose the lug nuts, I think they worry of liability for the wheels come off that's why they always over torque them. For me; I only used the anti-seized compound on the contacted surface between wheel and hub or rotor, for tighten the lug nuts; after tighten them on jack stand, I lower the car on the ground, used 2ft pipe on breaker bar, re-tighten each bolt till the car wiggle back and fort, never had the problem to remove them, but one time I forgot to re-tighten one wheel after lowed the car down, it happen like Duncan had, the wheel almost come off on the highway, since then always remind myself to check and re-tighten the nuts.

I just use a torque wrench and torque the bolts to spec, HOWEVER it's not a very expensive torque wrench. It is a simple beam type wrench I got at a store, now closed, that sold inexpensive imported items. That wrench will be accurate in as much as all the bolts it says are torqued to 100# are torqued the same, but it's not precise in that it's never been calibrated. My "good" torque wrench is also a beam type, but it and I keep it calibrated -- unlike most beam wrenches it has split scales with a center indicator so there's no real parallax error on reading metric versus english torques - there are any number of YouTube and other videos/instructions on how to do that, it takes a few minutes but it's not complicated. On the cheapie wrench I just marked the scale with a little dot (white electrical tape) for the different torques needed on each different car so I can read it from some distance.