Put the car in winter mode:
Neptunes
Blizzak WS70 tires
67.1>65.1 hub rings
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Put the car in winter mode:
Neptunes
Blizzak WS70 tires
67.1>65.1 hub rings
Swapped out the leaking radiator. Fun was had by all. Meaning me.
2005 XC70 Ruby Red
2007 V70R GT 477/Nordkap
I've had an intermittent sticking front brake so today I fitted a brand new brake caliper and a pair of Goodridge lines to the front of the XC today.
The caliper swap was a breeze but when fitting the line to the passenger side the bleed nipple rounded and I'd already fitted the line (yes I know, school boy error) so I hammered an undersized socket onto it and managed to free it off.
Was going to do all four flexis today but after the rounded nipple I checked the rears before diving in and both are dodgy so I'm going no further until I've picked up some fresh nipples to replace to ones I'm about to destroy.
Used a gunsons eezi bleed and the Howard method of pressure bleeding brakes with great success. (http://www.volvoxc.com/forums/search...archid=3410821)
The disc has blued slightly from the heat of the sticking, but after a quick re-bed/test drive round the block it seems to stopping ok, so I'm hoping the pads aren't shot because I only fitted a new set last year.
Never had a problem with bleed screws once I figured out the recommended torque...it's surprisingly low...most folks, garages included, way over-torque bleed screws...then they round out when being removed...
My 4 Runner is regularly driven in salt water (don't ask...) and I just bled the brakes on it. No problems with the bleed screws despite the rust everywhere on that old truck.
Use the little rubber caps, torque them correctly, flush your brakes once every year or two (as recommended) and you'll never have a problem again...
Current Fleet:
2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
2005 MB S600 (126K, Michelin AS4, HPL 0W40)
2005 MB SL600 (55K Michelin AS4, Mobil 1 0W40)
2004 V70R (143K, six speed M66, HPL 5W40)
2004 XC90 (235K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
2002 V70-XC (295K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
2002 V70-T5 (225K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
2001 V70-T5 (125K, IPD downpipe, cat back and other mods)
1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)
The rears look like they haven't been touched in a long time, so I'm not looking forward to cracking them off, same goes for the hoses. I've cleaned them up and soaked the nipples and hose unions in plus gas which should help with a bit of luck.
Did both front endlinks and balljoints.
Resprayed my bumpers black.
Only this time I believe I have found the best product yet.
Its by far a better paint than VHT Vinyl black satin and a massive improvement over Forever Black.
SEM Color Coat [Landau Black 15013]
Its a flexible coating that stays on! So far its been two days and the bumpers look brand new.
(stock image)
Its about $25/can - 12oz and it will do all the bumpers.
Yes you will have to mask the bumpers as its a spray can.
I bet you really have to clean the bumpers WELL to get that to stay on!
The amount of road dirt and waxes etc that are ingrained on mine it would probably just run straight off......
Not really, just clean from grease etc. I just wiped it with a chamois and sprayed it 2 days later.
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