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Did you check the resources section?
The TSB is posted along with pictures...
http://www.volvoxc.com/resources/how...%20Leakage.pdf
Current Fleet:
2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
2005 MB S600 (126K, Michelin AS4, HPL 0W40)
2005 MB SL600 (55K Michelin AS4, Mobil 1 0W40)
2004 V70R (143K, six speed M66, HPL 5W40)
2004 XC90 (235K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
2002 V70-XC (295K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
2002 V70-T5 (225K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
2001 V70-T5 (125K, IPD downpipe, cat back and other mods)
1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)
FYI
Did the case half re-seal today and everything went quite smooth. No trouble with stuck/rusty bolts, axle shaft came right out. If you've got some basic wrenching skills and a decent set of tools, this job can be done in your home garage with the car on jack stands. Make sure you have a good selection of ratchet extensions and wobble sockets to get those hard to reach bolts on top of the bevel gear and to unbolt the rear drive shaft. This will allow you to unbolt the drive shaft from the bevel gear without dropping the exhaust like the service bulletin suggests.
Did you bevel the inner joints like you're supposed to?
Going to do the same.
Bought seals, bolts and new vent.
Didn't buy the Chemical Gasket for which dealer asked over $60.
I decided to use a general Gasket Maker purchased from other parts store, $20.
I think it will work.
JRL,
Any comment on beveling the inner joint, must do, why ?
Thanks.
Last edited by haoz129; 03-14-2011 at 05:17 PM.
2003 XC70, Blue, 198KKm, FL bearing & DIM replaced, no other major issues yet.
I did bevel the inside edges. Although I did not use a file for most of the job as stated in the TSB. Instead I used a de-burring tool which proved to save TONS of time, with the same result. I did have to resort to a file for some of the tighter radius corners and hard to reach areas around the fill plug.
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