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  1. #81
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Brooklyn, 11201
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    49

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    Quote Originally Posted by guyeye View Post
    Nice Video, BUT...

    *Mobil 1 Synthetic does not meet spec. (unless that has changed very recently). Use Mobil 3309 (or toyota T-IV). Some people swear by Amsoil- I play it safe.
    *Remove the fresh air intake pipe (it just pops out). Much easier to reach in. This makes it hard for me to watch this!
    *A funnel with a flexible hose (18"?) works best. It's not necessary to remove the funnel while performing this procedure.
    *In theory, moving through the gears while pumping fluid out, helps clear more dirty fluid trapped inside various channels. This is probably not absolutely necessary.

    Much has been mentioned about the proper way to check the fluid, so it should be mentioned that you must do it after the transmission is fully up to temp. This takes longer than getting the engine up to temp. 20 minutes of city driving should be safe (or you can check the temp with your Vida-Dice setup). Do it when the car is perfectly level. run through the gears before you check it and keep the car running (obvious?). Wear long sleeves or you will surely burn yourself.

    Did I miss anything?

    Great vid though! Should probably be posted in the "Big Transmission Post..." sticky with the above mentioned "tips".
    I wanted to place this in the transmission thread on the stickies but that thread is closed.

    And as both of you (Astro14 & Guyeye) point out Mobil 3309 is the recommended type transmission fluid or the Toyota t-IV equivalent. While I no way a full on DIY'er I thought this was a great look on how to do it, fluid aside.

    I guess the fluid choice is down to those that wish to take the risk and use something other than what is recommended.

  2. #82
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Atlanta, GA
    Posts
    267

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    Quote Originally Posted by Blame Me View Post
    I wanted to place this in the transmission thread on the stickies but that thread is closed.

    And as both of you (Astro14 & Guyeye) point out Mobil 3309 is the recommended type transmission fluid or the Toyota t-IV equivalent. While I no way a full on DIY'er I thought this was a great look on how to do it, fluid aside.

    I guess the fluid choice is down to those that wish to take the risk and use something other than what is recommended.
    Or we could use Mobil 1 and (wait for it!) Blame You!!!
    Ba-Zing!!!
    Guy Welch
    2004 XC70 90K miles
    Ash Gold Metallic/Oak
    English Shepherd option installed in rear.

  3. #83
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Atlanta, GA
    Posts
    267

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    Seriously though, it is a good video. It shows how simple it really is.

    The long hose to the 2 liter bottle, boosted up on something is a great tip.
    Guy Welch
    2004 XC70 90K miles
    Ash Gold Metallic/Oak
    English Shepherd option installed in rear.

  4. #84
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Dover, NH
    Posts
    195

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    Fantastic vid. This is something that I plan on doing in the near future so this helps a bit. Is the type of filter in the video something that you all would recommend or is there a better version that you all are using? Is it really beneficial to splice one in?
    2005 XC70 Ruby Red
    2007 V70R GT 477/Nordkap

  5. #85
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Atlanta, GA
    Posts
    267

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    I never really thought the filter was absolutely necessary if you've kept up on fluid changes. But, if at 96,000 miles this is your first fluid change, you might consider it.
    Many here recommend the Magnefine filter. But I don't have any personal experience with it.
    Guy Welch
    2004 XC70 90K miles
    Ash Gold Metallic/Oak
    English Shepherd option installed in rear.

  6. #86
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Nebraska
    Posts
    1,441

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    Quote Originally Posted by youropeen View Post
    Is it really beneficial to splice one [a filter] in?
    Transmissions wear out by friction, small shavings wear off bearings, clutches, bands and clamps and accumulate in the fluid. Transmissions wear out faster if the fluid is not the correct viscosity or contains small particles. Changing the fluid often will remove those particles, but is expensive. Two cases of 3309 is about $100. Changing the fluid less often but filtering it to constantly remove the particles is the next best thing. My personal regime for the last 100K has been a drain and fill once a year along with a replacement filter. The trouble with the drain and fill is you never replace all the fluid, you are always diluting old fluid with new and that old fluid will oxidize (turn brown) and loose viscosity. When that happens, you need to do a flush per the video. I did that last summer along with the 2nd timing belt change at 210K miles.

  7. #87
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Tampa, FL
    Posts
    107

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    I'm getting ready for a road trip and want to do the transmission flush. I'm not sure if it has ever been done before on the car so I'm going to do it because I bought the car used. Anyhow, I just watched the video on this post and what this guy does is different than the .pdf instructions that go with the Flush Hose Kit on the IPD site. The only thing that I could see beneficial from the video technique is that it looks like it'll save you a couple of quarts of ATF.

    Any thoughts from the Volvo experts? I will of course use the Mobil 3309 or the Toyota IV. Thanks for any insight.
    Jim<><
    '04 XC70 AWD CrossCountry 2.5T
    '99 Land Rover Discovery I (sold )
    '86 Saab 900i (sold a long time ago...)

  8. #88
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Calgary Alberta
    Posts
    1,339

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    Quote Originally Posted by 9dawgs View Post
    I'm getting ready for a road trip and want to do the transmission flush. I'm not sure if it has ever been done before on the car so I'm going to do it because I bought the car used. Anyhow, I just watched the video on this post and what this guy does is different than the .pdf instructions that go with the Flush Hose Kit on the IPD site. The only thing that I could see beneficial from the video technique is that it looks like it'll save you a couple of quarts of ATF.

    Any thoughts from the Volvo experts? I will of course use the Mobil 3309 or the Toyota IV. Thanks for any insight.
    I did mine on the weekend that is both T-IV and 3309 compatible - Castrol from Wallymart I think. Just drain into jug. Put same amount back in. 16L later, it's nice red colour. I take the extra steps to move my car through the gears as it starts to drain to loosen up any gunky stuff. When I started, fluid was slow to come out. When I was done, it was coming out real quick. Fluid I was putting in was nice and warm as well, so was the engine when I started. Shifting nice and crisp again. Took 1.5 hours.


  9. #89
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Calgary Alberta
    Posts
    1,339

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    And I've merged the threads! Thanks for posting the video!


  10. #90
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Tampa, FL
    Posts
    107

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    Quote Originally Posted by Forkster View Post
    And I've merged the threads! Thanks for posting the video!
    Cool, thanks for the information. Can you be more specific on the Castrol ATF from Walmart? That would be easier to get. Also, would you recommend putting in an inline filter as in the video or is it even needed?
    Jim<><
    '04 XC70 AWD CrossCountry 2.5T
    '99 Land Rover Discovery I (sold )
    '86 Saab 900i (sold a long time ago...)

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