I was quite clear on the difference. You were unclear on which fan, and in my reply each time I said ?if?.

Since this sounds like your blower motor, then I would replace the blower motor resistor.

Clarity? Clarity what, exactly?

I explained what you need to do fix a radiator fan problem: replace the whole thing.

If you have a blower motor problem, that is a different problem.

So,...

Complete rebuild. Struts were Sachs. Springs were Lesjofors. Mounts were Bilstein.

FCP sells a whole suspension kit, and while the price is no different than buying the parts individually, it...

Never mounted one - but have one on the R. Doesn?t make much of a difference. Also, not a lot of stress on it. I would go with 3M tape.

Rough? Or stiffer? I suspect it?s more rough, and that is typically a blown bushing, that allows the suspension to feel ?harsh?. The front lower control arm bushings don?t last long, and I would...

Yep - You are being too paranoid. The timing gear fits on the crankshaft, and there is a keyway internal to the teeth of the timing gear that makes it fit only one, precise, way. It will not go...

At 170K those mounts are done. They don?t wear out like that lower torque mount, but they do wear.

The symptom is vibration and ?clunking? over big bumps.

Subframe mounts might need a look...

Turning the crank manually, how? With the timing belt in place and the engine back in correct time? No, it would not show if the valves were damaged.

The only way to know is to re-install the...

I have never heard of a timing belt slipping off. This is a first for me

I agree that your engine is probably toasted. Even just one revolution with a stuck camshaft and you?ll have pistons hit...

I didn?t know the drip rails were still available! I was told they were ?NLA? years ago.

You?ll want new clips for them - there are two kinds, and the parts folks should be able to tell you how...

You can upgrade to the 305 MM - all you need is the 305 mm rotors, and a set of caliper brackets for a 305mm car (a T5). Keep your calipers, brake lines, pads. Only changes are the rotors and the...

This happened to me once, years ago - radiator fan would not shut off.

Open the hood. See if it is running.

If it is the radiator fan that is running, then unplug it before it kills the...

Thank you for the feedback - I'm good for now, but your experience certainly will have me looking at the Vredesteins!

Cheers,
Astro

If the boot is intact, and the joint is tight, you?re good.

To check - jack up the car, make sure it?s secure, and grab the wheel at the 12 and 6 o?clock position and give it a good yank. It...

While Volvo clearly intended to leave room for other switches there, you will find it's rather tight between the faceplate and the socket for those switches in the CCM. I just looked at this -...

Good to know! Still have the WR G4 on the XC, but appreciate you circling back on what you found.

Sorry I?m late - don?t check much any more, as the traffic here is way down. Replaced the downpipe on the XC a few years ago - aftermarket, stainless, small cat, and it works great.

Then the...

The XC 70 has always had a bit more pedal travel than other cars. However, it is a very common mistake to get the caliper return spring, mounted incorrectly, leading to a soft pedal and excess...

Volvo still stocked the Nivomat for my 2004 XC90 when I bought them last year. Not cheap. If you have Nivomat, you must replace with Nivomat. The spring rates are lower for the Nivomat, so if you...

There is no harm in pulling fuses and disconnecting the battery...but also, no benefit. There will still be stored codes. I would get a decent copy of Vida - I think I paid $100 for mine, including...

If it’s better with new fluid, then you’ve done well. Drive it for a bit, then do your “gibbons-ish” flush again. Might try a bit of either solvent, or ester-based synthetic, as both will...

With all transmission performance issues, I start by making sure the that the fluid is at the proper level and in good condition. I don't know much about those codes, but I would start with a drain...

Water Pump has a weep hole. They're usually good for 150+ thousand miles. It's about time. The belt tensioner is easy. Installing the belt and keeping the cams aligned is hard. Mark the cam...

It has to come out from underneath. Probably easiest to remove the entire bumper cover, search for a how to on that - it's not hard, just awkward.

Remove each 8mm nut holding on the headlight...

Yep. What Hoonk said. Not a difficult repair using genuine parts.