just read previous post.
Wow, I really depend on spell check.
Sorry.
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just read previous post.
Wow, I really depend on spell check.
Sorry.
Performed a flush using the Gibbons method and Toyota T-IV [pumped through 16.1 liters of fluid] some 3000 miles ago ...Quote:
Originally Posted by cmon4day
Shifting has improved - it is back to being smooth to the point of being imperceptible when the ATF is warm.
Thanks Dave,
That's why we are here, we can all contribute ideas and we can all discuss and validate or invalidate them just the same.
I do realize it is an oil pump and yes running any mechanical piece of equip dry will kill it in a hurry, mind you, after draining the oil out of anything it's not dry, it's just not floating in oil. For a very short period of time i would have thought you can run it empty just not long enough for the remaining oil to fly off of moving parts and really dry up. (An infomercial comes to mind from the 90s, "Add XYZ oil treatment and LOOK, this 1976 Oldsmobile is running with no oil or oilpan, and LOOK we can even spray water on it!", yes sure! it will run, just not for long!!)
Just wanted to get your opinion on the idea.
17 pages and 163 replies to a thread entitled "Really easy, really effective?
I'm guessing I had better budget my time carefully for any thread that has "difficult" or "confusing" in the tittle. ;)
Performed the flush last night in about an hour (most of the time was spent measuring). I just cannot believe the difference this has made.
2001 w/ 116k miles and the shifts are as smooth as i could ever imagine. Prior to this, i really thought we were going to be in for a new transmission and with the mileage and value of the vehicle, we would have gotten rid of it :(. Thanks again for this great site and this thread in particular. My wife drove it 20 miles to work this morning (city and highway) and did not experience any of the harshness that we have in the past.
FYI.. i was able to get Toyota T-IV from carquest for around 4.95/q.
Thanks again,
Charles
First of all, I'm a new forum member and would like to thank Gibbons and the others for a fantastic thread. I have TWO 2000 S70's with the AW5 tranny's, so would have been facing a hefty bill if I'd had the dealer flush them.
The Castrol Import Multi-Vehicle ATF fluid was discussed earlier as a 3309 compliant fluid. My local AutoZone store not only carries it at $3.39/qt, but has it on sale this week for 50-cents off per quart. I'm going to go pick up three cases at $2.89/qt.
Thanks guys! I'll report back on how the Castrol works out.
awsome instructions this needs to get saved on the site somewhere. [thumbup]
i'm thinking of doing the trans flush on mine.
the only question i need answered is, is the 3309 ok to use in my trans?
Your signature indicates a 1998 V70XC. If that is the case, NO, you do not use 3309 in your transmission. Check your owners manual; probably Dexron III is required. Check at the 1997-2000 V70XC forum.Quote:
Originally Posted by PaperToast
I've owned a '01 XC70 for only a few months now. Car was in great condition for the 117K miles on it when we bought it. Found this thread through the FAQ sticky thread. Have a problem with the trans not coming out of park, I have had to rock the car back and forth to get it to come out. My wife saws she can just sit a wait a few minutes and keep "jiggling" the shifter and it moves out of park. I am going to try this "Gibbons Flush" first to see if the problem goes away.
I personally like to work on my own vehicles for the simple fact that I know what has been done and what hasn't. If it is screwed up then I have only myself to blame. I also learn more about the vehicle and have a better understanding of what needs to be done when something does fail and I don't have the a)time to fix myself, b)tools and equipment. It's also a money factor as well.
IncorrectQuote:
Originally Posted by dlr97
3309 CAN be used with no ill effects in a 4 speed. There's even a Volvo bulletin about using it if you have harsh shifting. It will not hurt anything and may help
This is not a fluid issue it's a micro switch/sensor issue OUTSIDE the transmissionQuote:
Originally Posted by TKC2000
thanks for the tip JRL.
BTW, where can I find this micro switch and/or sensor?
Just wondering how much fluid is recommended for one job? Is 16L assuming an additional flush? I noticed the original instructions seem to suggest 8L, so why do some recommend more than others?Quote:
Originally Posted by Aviator
I have 8L of Type IV in my trunk, but want to make sure I don't have to pick up any more :D
Thanks!
I purchased 12L of T-IV to flush the tranny - I ended up buying four more before it started running clear.:o
Yeah, Duncan you're gonna need 16 litres. You'll use about 12 to 14 before you see absolutely clean, new oil coming out. You want to be thorough....do it right!! Get a new green clip and yellow O rings for the cooler hose; the clip is a tiny bit fragile. Mine didn't break taking it out 'cos I know how to deal with them, but over time the heat affects the plastic and it will become brittle, and I did replace mine. It's cheap insurance against having the hose pop out while on autopilot!!Quote:
I purchased 12L of T-IV to flush the tranny - I ended up buying four more before it started running clear
Dave.
Sounds good, I will do that! So I presume you keep pumping the oil out through the tube you inserted, and only drain from the plug the one time?
Wow, this thread is getting long! Yes, drain from the plug only once, that's when you get the most 100% concentrated dirty fluid out. After that, the new fluid you put in pushes the old fluid out through the body and components of the transmission.
could you post a link to that bulletin so i can read up on that.Quote:
Originally Posted by JRL
i need to do a trans flush and that info would help me out as to what fluid to get
You have three options:Quote:
Originally Posted by PaperToast
1. Mobil 3309 anywhere from $5-7 a litre: available at any Mobil reseller and online
2. Toyota Type T-IV (equivalant/rebranded Mobile 3309) at $5-7 a litre: available at any Toyota dealership
3. Volvo Trans Fluid (rebranded Mobile 3309) at $20 a litre: available at any Volvo $tealership. :)
Just so there's no confusion Duncan......pump out about 2 litres at a time, then put in 2 litres, pump out 2 litres put in 2 litres, etc, etc. I went and bought 5 x 4L jugs of spring water, measured and poured out 2 litres from one and then marked on the jug where 2 litres was/is. Then I drank the water from the other jugs and marked them also (had a very long piss after that). Then it was easy to keep track of what was coming out and when I was finished I only needed to do a level correction of .5 L.Quote:
So I presume you keep pumping the oil out through the tube you inserted
Dave.
Great, thanks - that's what I thought you meant. Just wanted to double check before I play with a rather expensive piece of machinery ;)
so the bottom line is that 3309 can be used in my 98 with no ill effects?Quote:
Originally Posted by Forkster
need to be absolutly sure on this. dont need to mess this one up
Just a comment...
Just brought my 04 in for timing belt she's got 100,000 on her. Anyway I have never changed the tranny fluid, so i asked the guy at the desk what was his opinion was on tranny flushing. This place, only works on and sell's used Volvo's so they probebly have some idea. He told me that they have had problems a number of times with tranny's when the flush was done when the milage was over 60K. So they reccomend if you have not flushed the tranny before 60K do not do it ever...
Hey Calloway - those guys are a contradiction in common sense. Don't flush? If you flush, and your transmission already has issues, a flush will highlight that it needs attention, not cause further damage or introduce new problems. 99.9% of the times for 03-07 trannies the owners feel the trannies are rejuvinated after a flush.Quote:
Originally Posted by Calloway
How are they doing a flush? Perhaps that's the issue? :)
Hi Bill...Quote:
Originally Posted by BillAileo
I have just been info'd by my local main stealer that I don't have four wheel drive. Apparently I've joined the ranks of the front wheel drive only club due to a failure "somewhere in the drive train/Haldex system". I contacted Volvo as the car had done 54,000 miles, hence over the 50K warranty. They didn't want to know as a previous owner had once had the vehicle worked on by a "specialist garage" and not a main stealer! So, since 1 stamp in the service record came from an independant Volvo stated that this invalidated the warranty......."Volvo for life"?.....well actually sir, no! 3 years or 50K whichever comes first ....and depending on who serviced the car! So be warned.............anyone got any idea what might be wrong with my four wheel drive? The main stealers I've spoken to all acknowledge that they've got customers who won't pay the £1500, ($3,000 US), bill to fix the failure "somewhere in the system", they all sya they've got a pretty good idea what it might be....but they're not letting on!
Regards
John M XC70 D5 SE Lux......apparently now in the afterlife!
ps. A great forum and I really enjoy it. Thanks all
John,
I don't personaly know anything about UK laws and regulation on repair work by independents but a UK entity (http://www.volvobasingstoke.co.uk/warranty.php) makes the following representation:
"Volvo Warranty
" We are able to carry out servicing without invalidating your Volvo Warranty. We are also equipped to carry out warranty work covered by a Volvo Select Policy.
"In October 2003 European Union legislation regarding the motor trade came into force. This legislation provides motorists with more freedom to decide who should look after their vehicle.
"The Office of Fair Trading have stated that “independent repairers can carry out normal maintenance and repair services during a vehicle’s warranty period without invalidating the manufacturer’s warranty – subject to the following conditions:
"That the service is carried out in accordance with the manufacturer’s servicing schedules, and is recorded as such.
"That the parts used are of ‘appropriate quality’ and are recorded as such.
This means that you are still able to benefit from our competitive pricing and individual service, even when your vehicle is covered by a Volvo warranty."
That's all bull but usually the main culprit is the haldex sensor. About a 250 to $300 retail job here in the USQuote:
Originally Posted by g4hlr
I only was on this forum for a month or so before we bought our '04 (new). I dunno, maybe if I had been on longer, I might have chickened out because of all their eccentricities. It's been by far my favorite car ever, but even still, it has been a white knuckle experience.
Knowing what you know now, or have experienced up until now, would you have bought your XC?
Gibbons: yep, I'm thinking about getting a second one. I'd rather buy a car with a few known quirks than buy a car as boring to own and drive like watching paint dry.
Japanese cars even have issues. My 92 Civic required a transmission rebuild (under warranty)- and I cared for her like a 2 week old kitten. My 99 Maxima needed $4000 worth of transmission work, plus alternators, injectors, injection coils, front and rear engine seals, gaskets etc. Both Japanese cars known for being reliable, both needed expensive work.
Compared to my Maxima and Civc, apart from the VADIS challenges, the Volvo is a snap to work on. I wouldn't own a Volvo if it wasn't too easy to work on. Besides, it's got more personality than Madonna. :D
I think a Volvo is an car enthusiasts machine. Being in touch with your vehicle, caring for it, etc, will help you out $$$ in the long run.
I have heard many problems flushing a high mileage tranny that has never been flushed. The reason is the new fluid loosens up the debries inside the tranny and start circulating it which can clog up the valves. I had a 92 BMW 535i which just about all the forum members/mechanics were afraid to completely flush anything over 100k miles that hasn't been serviced. Most independent shops say these cars go up on the rack for a tranny flush and then wouldn't run again. Thus, they don't want to be responsible for what the customer will perceive as their fault.Quote:
Originally Posted by Forkster
What people advise in this case is to drain + fill (replacing only 1/2 of the fluid) for 2-3 times separated by 2-3 months.
This said, I haven't read any this generation Volvos encountering this problem. Different transmission designs might behave differently as well. You might ask them both about his reasons and whether their observations is on this gen V/XCs.
Interesting points howard.
Gibbons - this thread is one of the most important ones here on VolvoXC.COm. We don't want it to get too big because it makes it harder for our members to get the info they need. I'd like to close it off and lock it for the FAQ and re-start it again for those with additional questions the end of next week. That ok?
Well, you're the OP so I suppose you can change the topic if you want [thumbup]Quote:
Originally Posted by gibbons
My answer is - definitely! But I'm not sure I'm brave enough to keep the car when the extended warranty dies in 35k (kms). But it's important to remember that members of this forum mostly write about their problems, so it's hardly representative of the average experience. I'd be surprised if a Honda forum looked significantly different ('just thought I'd post to say another year has passed with nothing to report...')
Consumer Reports polls their members for detailed feedback, and their coverage of XC70s is good, suggesting they get quite a bit of feedback from owners (I know I submitted a questionnaire this year!). And they give the recent XC70s a pretty good score. From '04 no part of the car scores lower than average (the mid point between 'better' and 'worse').
In terms of comparing makes (of wagons and hatchbacks over the past three years) the XC70 is maybe 37% better than average (judging from a bar-graph) - the Subaru Outback non-turbo is slightly ahead (maybe 42%) but the turbo Outback is maybe 20% worse than the Volvo. As for customer satisfaction, 70% of XC70 owners said they'd buy the same again, against 71% of Outback owners. The median is 69.
What the CR analysis doesn't capture as far as I can see is cost of ownership outside of warranty - and I suspect this is where we take a pounding.
Edit: Sorry Forkster, I didn't see your post until after I'd sent mine. Maybe a new thread for Gibbons 'knowing what you know now' Q&A?
Extended warranties, maintenance plans etc. etc. is an extremely expensive form of insurance (= peace of mind).
The so called "motorplan" or "autoplan" - fully inclusive maintenance plan - is a brilliant invention by the motoring money men and marketing men ... and a double whammy against the consumer:
- The money men laugh all the way to the bank because you have paid a massive insurance premium, calculated at the worst possible scenario for the manufacturer, up-front for a few years worth of "zero" maintenance costs. If you finance the car, you are even suckered into paying interest on the loan of the insurance premium amount ... add it all together, and on average you end up paying double what you would have paid for the maintenance and repairs over the same period.
- The marketing men laugh all the way, because you have been scared out of your mind about the high maintenance costs after expiry of the "plan" - so you sell the car a short while before the insurance expires and buy a new car long before you otherwise would have considered it, and then the money men laugh again and then the marketing men and then ...
I had taken the chance on the "expensive" Volvo maintenance and repairs and to date, on a per km (mile) basis, my 850 has been one of the cheapest cars I had ever owned. My XC70 has not been as great but none of the stuff has been Volvo unique and I have friends with [reliable VW!?] vehicles that envy even my XC70 "low" cost of ownership.
The 850 has about 308.000 km, and still transports my son safely every day for about 110 kms round trip to work. My S60 [my daily transport] has only reached 74.000 km but I will NOT buy an extended warranty or autoplan after expiry at 100.000 kms, and I intend to take that one to 300.000+ km too. The XC - well, at just more than 122.000 km it is just run in and -- after a Gibbons inspired flush or two and an in-line transmission filter -- is as good as new inside and out. Yes, even if I have to spend a few grand, there is nothing much that I want to drive anyway, and if I look at the cost of any palatable replacement, I think I can see 300.000+ km on the XC too without effort and definitely without breaking the bank to the same extent as a replacement ... and for one brief moment I have the last laugh and not the motoring money and marketing men ...
Hi,Quote:
Originally Posted by JRL
Thanks for that. Will now investigate Haldex "sensor". Have you any idea of the part number? I'm sorry it's off the thread, but it might just get me going again. As for the legal info....Volvo say there is no record that the Haldex drive was checked/serviced by the "independent garage". All I've got is a stamp in the service record and the previous owner didn't transfer any bills, receipts etc. Pulls out another point though as to when the Haldex should be serviced. Haldex as described by VW Audi; say oil and filter MUST be changed every 20K miles. Volvo don't! Ah well, put it down to experience I supose.....only wish I could read the EMC's etc and service the damn thing myself! At least if I broke it I'd know!
Thanks for the lead.
John