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Great how-to, but if, like me, you searched this and began to follow it without noticing it was for 2001+ model years...well...lets just say it won't work quite right.
See, on a '99, that top hose on the cooler is where the fluid comes OUT...ask he how I know. :(
Otherwise, fantastic. Thanks!
Have the car in for service at Volvo here in Sandefjord today, they just called me and strongly adviced to change oil in the automatic transmission. They told me the oil smelled bad??. 430$ !! I have 116.000 km on the car now.
Have just used the Gibbons method - using the Toyota IV fluid as it's cheaper here in the UK. (About £80 / $130 for 10 litres!)
I carefully measured what was removed and put the same back in - but didn't allow for the odd spill etc so should have been slightly under on the dipstick.
However the end result was above the dipstick's 'hot' line even when cold. However the car seemingly ran fine with smoother shifts - I ran it for a few miles in this state just to check things had settled etc.
I then drained about a litre out - but even then it's still well above the 'cold' line when cold.
However the car is now giving jerky changes, on cornering in particular.
Any thoughts?
Fluid flowing back into the main box from the cooler giving an artificially high reading?
Neil
Please ignore my last - I've just read in another thread that I need to do the level check with the engine running.
Neil
How's the Toyota IV atf working out? I've been thinking of doing the same as a cheaper alternative. Thanks for any info!Quote:
Originally Posted by Neil R
16victor,
A quick question for you. I have a 98 GLT and tried to purge the system. Took off the top hose to the cooler and pumped fluid out the hose instead of the radiator! Ahhhhhh. I am just trying to confirm now which line is which. From your post I am getting the idea that it is the drivers side bottom hose that is the return line, and the drivers side top line that is the supply. Hope your clean up wasn't to difficult.
Thanks,
Eric
Quote:
Originally Posted by Beau
Sorry so long to reply - have been away for nearly a month.
Once I got the fluid level sorted things have worked out fine with the Toyota fluid.
I can't decide whether the overall gearbox smoothness has improved or not - possibly just slightly - but the peace of mind affect has made it all worth it.
I actually did the final top up with a Volvo 1L bottle, and it certainly looked, poured and smelled identical to the Toyota stuff.
Neil
http://www.ipdusa.com/ProductsCat.as...764&RootID=629
Not that I couldn't do what Gibbons suggested, but this wouldn't require me climbing underneath, plugging with teflon tape, etc...
I ordered the flush kit from IPD. It basically is a clear hose and some extra clips and o-rings. I followed the same procedure started by Gibbions and it worked perfectly. The IPD kit calls for taking off the lower trans hose (my car is 2003 V70 T5) and putting their clear hose over the lower trans cooler hose. The lower hose is a real pain to get to, so I just took off the upper trans hose--much easier--depress green clip, push in, pull out!!!
Then I pushed the supplied IPD clear hose into the upper trans radiator fitting leaving removed upper hose free. It fits real snug and didn't leak once.
Run hose into container, I used a gallon milk jug to measure how much came out, then emptied milk jug into 5 gal bucket.
When I first started the flushing (30 sec or so at idle to get 1/2 gal or 2 qts out) I thought I'd gotten the oil cooler hose the fluid was so DARK. (53,000 miles on car) After 6 cycles of starting car, step on brake, switch through P,R,N, D and back I'd flushed 12 qts of fluid. The last flush cycle was way more reddish in tint and was much clearer. I only had 12 qts and probably needed 18 qts to get it really clean.
Figure what I did was better than what was in there. I agree with removing the air intake scoop to the air box. It makes it much easier to get to the hidden trans dip stick/fill tube.
Next time I'll get a smaller funnel to make sure fluid is going into dip stick tube...had some spillage but not bad. After last flush, I drove the car to warm fluid and check level. I guess I took out more than I put in because it was reading really low even after driving it for a while. Yes, I checked while engine running and level. It seems to drive and shift fine for now. I filled 5 gal bucket to about 3 or 3.5 gal mark and after 12 qts (3 gallons) should be close enough untill the other (2) cases of Mobil JWS 3309 I ordered get here in a few days to top up.
Long story short, it is easy to flush you're own trans. I'd get some 3/4 clear hose from an auto parts store or Home Depot and save paying the $19 to IPD. Took me 30 minutes start to finish. YOU CAN DO IT!!!!
My recent transmission flush experience was very similar. A case of Mobil 3309 from Avlube.com was not enough, so I didn't get the fluid crystal clear. An interesting suggestion is to do the first 6 quarts with another ATF such as Dexron III, and then finish the flush with 12 quarts of 3309. This saves some money, and when you are done, all of the old ATF, dirt and Dexron III are gone. Maybe I will try this next time.:rolleyes:
Getting the fluid level correct is tricky. After a brief run around the block, the level was at the lower mark on the stick. I assumed that this would allow for further expansion with more spirited driving, but I found the ATF over the upper mark:eek: after a drive on the turnpike. I ended up removing some fluid with my MityVac.
Overall, I agree that this is a great procedure for the do-it-yourselfer.[thumbup]