Haven't seen any available. If there is one, your dealer has it; can't cost too much. Bolt seemed much larger than oil pan drain plug, so I never tried that seal ring. I re-used the old one - no leaks so far...:oQuote:
Originally Posted by ArtSmart
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Haven't seen any available. If there is one, your dealer has it; can't cost too much. Bolt seemed much larger than oil pan drain plug, so I never tried that seal ring. I re-used the old one - no leaks so far...:oQuote:
Originally Posted by ArtSmart
hello everyone,
I am an old member of brick board.com and a new member here.
I have flushed the transmission fluid in 2 850's and An C70 using the process I had found on the brick board and is identical to the one descibed on this board.
I am going to do a flush on my 2003 xc as soon as I recieve the
ATF I ordered on line that I can not obtain locally,Here is the web address to
the Mobil 3309 ,
http://store.avlube.com/mobilatf3309.html It is AV Lubricants web site.
I hope that this can be help to others that are having a hard time finding it in their neck of the woods!
It is best to have 14 to 16 quarts of 3309 on hand to get a really clear flush. Since a case from avlube is only 12 quarts, you might want to contact jkvolvo on this thread:
http://forums.swedespeed.com/zerothread?id=67917&page=2
He has a few extra quarts available. Remember that the ATF flow is reversed from your 850.
I just picked up a 2002 XC70 and after reading through these forums decided to order my case of 3309 and do the flush since mine has 103k on it. Case arrives today :) I would just like to here from anyone out there who owns a 2002 and has lots of miles on it and has not had any trans problems. All this talk of failing trans is starting to make me think that I have to start a Volvo Trans IRA or 401K or something to save for the eventual shelling out or $3K for a new one. Is there any hope?
Mine is an '03 not an '02 but I would offer the opinion that if you are not having any problems at present you could well go a long time without issues by:
changing the ATF fluid at reasonable intervals;
keeping track of the bevel (aka angle) gear for signs of any seepage (and perhaps even replacing the fluid if you are a type A person);
keeping all four of your tires close to the same diameter.
Good luck,
Bill
Agree with BillAileo. I have 85k on my '01 (generally conceded to be the most unreliable trannies), and so far I haven't left a trail of gears and red oil on the highway. In addition to the fluid change, make sure that you have the latest software upgrade; this varies by MY, and your dealer can possibly tell from the service history if this has been done; given the mileage of the car, I'll bet it has.
BillAileo's comment about maintaining equal tire circumference on all four wheels is interesting. I don't think I have seen this recommendation for transmission longevity before, and have looked at numerous posts about the A-W trannies in the past. In the case of my MY '01, it made the greatest difference in tranny performance. I previously posted my thoughts on this:
http://www.volvoxc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9017
but, alas, no one seemed interested. Anyway, I bought the car from a Volvo dealer with unequal tread front and rear, and had the annual inspection done at the same dealership, again with unequal tread on the tires, and no one suggested this as a potential fix for the harsh shifts. :mad:
My next step is to add a filter. This thread may be of interest:
http://forums.swedespeed.com/zerothread?id=69935
Good luck, clemstock. You have one of the highest mileage '01 - '02's that I have seen posted recently. [thumbup]
all good information - but what if you want to go from Dextron III to a Syn? You are going to have cross contamination. Will the method described in the above be safe enough?? Also what is this I hear abou tif you have very old fluid th enew fluid will attack the seals?
thanks
As this is the 2001+ XC70 forum, hopefully no one with an applicable car is using Dexron III. To the best of my knowledge, only fluids meeting the JWS 3309 standard, such as Mobil 3309, are approved for these transmissions and using anything else can cause major damage.
Bill
Just got off the phone with Amsoil, Redline, Shaeffer and Royal Purple. ALL but Amsoil said the 3309 nine stuff is special and that only ExonMobil are the ones that make the stuff. Although Amsoil said theirs would work, everyone of the other guys said that it would not.
So there ya go.
Okay...I don't usually hang out here but you guys have been doing this for awhile and I have a transmission fluid change coming up on our '04 V70...it is really the same as your XC's. Someone else has asked but I've never seen an answer.
What size is the transmission drain plug's crush washer? Is it the same as the oil plug's? I'd like to do this tomorrow if at all possible, but hate to get into it and find that the Groton aluminum crush washers don't fit.
Thanks in advance.
According to VADIS the part number for the transmission drain plug gasket is 977751. VADIS also shows the engine oil drain plug gasket for the '04 as having part number 977751. I believe the aluminum crush washer which FCP Groton says is part number 977751 is what you need.
Bill
Wow, thanks Bill...you da Man!
I re-used mine, it hasn't leaked, but for $0.20, I think that I will replace it next time.:D
This may turn out to be the longest string on the forum, and rightly so! I replaced by transmission fluid using the "Gibbons Way" two weekends ago, and it was indeed 'Really easy, really effective.' Thanks, Gibbons, for posting that. I add my voice to the choir.
For those that may be reluctant to do this, my 77K miles '02 now shifts much more responsively, and the process is not messy if you plan ahead for potential drips. If you want to keep your Volvo for a while and minimize expenses, I believe this is one of the most cost-effective ways to do it. I did this despite having over a year to go on my extended warantee. [thumbup]
Scott
FYI, I just got Toyota's version ATF Type lV for $3.97 a quart. Another dealer wanted a bit more.Quote:
Originally Posted by mrtippy
purchased the IPD flush kit and secured 20 minutes from my sat morning to flush the V70. for 02 year forward IPD says to remove LOWER line from radiator. I pushed, prodded, squeezed and pulled the line with the green clip but to no avail. Ultimately, removed the lower air dam to gain better access, but no luck. After 3 hours and retreated to the fridge for my Sierra Nevadas. Two questions for the forum 1) does anyone know how to remove a stubborn line with the green clips and 2) is it the lower trans line for P2 that need to be reomoved (some debate on this I've seen on the forum).
Thanks,
I haven't seen the IPD P2 directions, but I know that the procedure outlined in this thread by Gibbons is basically the same as the steps outlined in VADIS and I'd recommend sticking with them. As to removal of the green clip I have found it necessary to squeeze the clip and push it in first and then out while maintaining the squeeze pressure throughout the process.
Bill
Agree with Bill, it has to be easier to use the upper (return) line. I used a hose pliers, squeezed the green clip, pushed in first, then pulled out leveraging with the long pliers. I think this may be the hardest part of the procedure.:rolleyes:
I believe that the IPD instructions have you connect your clear tubing to the transmission line itself, i.e., you shove the tube over the line end. On the '02 (actually '01+), this would be the lower line, which is precooler, and the ATF flows out of the line. Gibbons' method attaches the clear tubing to the upper radiator opening, i.e., you shove the tube into the hole after disconnecting upper line. THis is postcooler, but the net effect is the same: ATF flows out of the upper radiator opening.
I recently bought a MY02 with 70K miles and figured it probably never had an ATF flush. The shifting felt rough and getting out of park and into reverse was jerky. I bought two cases of Mobil 3309 through AVLube and a flexible hose transmission funnel. I read the Gibbons method and an additional approach of repeatedly draining the pan. I read about folks shifting through gears to open up areas of used oil during the oil change so I opted for the repeated pan draining technique. I figured that after each drain and refill cycle I would pull the car off the ramps and drive it around for a couple of miles and manually shift through the gears and drive around in reverse.
So I started my flush by draining the oil out of the pan. Instead of 3.1 liters coming out as indicated in earlier posts, I got a little over 3.8 liters. I cleaned up the bolt and put it back. I then took the air intake hose out to gain better access to the transmission fluid dipstick. I peered around and couldn't find it. Where is the new transmission fluid suppose to go?:eek: I found a pitot tube like thing that had a hose with two clamps on it that looked like it might accept fluid but the hole was way too small to put a funnel in. Everyone who has done the Gibbons method talks about putting new transmission fluid in but no one shows a picture of where it goes. Maybe because it's so hard to get to.
Well after sweating for ten minutes and fearing I would have to tell my wife that I indeed couldn't complete the job (not something I wanted to do after chastizing her for not having confidence in my ability to do this job), I came upon a bright idea. I know that the oil comes out of the top of the radiator hole and through the tube with the green clip back into the transmission. All I have to do is feed the oil into that tube. The transmission oil funnel I bought has volume markings on it and a flexible plastic tube that fit perfectly over the o-rings on the green clip. I hooked that up and poured four quarts back into the transmission. I then clipped the tube back into the radiator, drove around shifting through the gears and then repeated the process 3 more times. I went through 16 quarts of oil and the stuff coming out got cleaner but it never got to the cleanliness that was shown in the posts where the control tube and the flush were compared.
The next time I perform a flush I think I'll try pumping the fluid out the radiator like the Gibbons method but put the new oil back in the tube like this past time. The only problem is that I won't shift through gears to get to more dirty pockets of oil. I can shift from park, to reverse, neutral and drive (holding the brake of course). Is it necessary to go through 1st-5th gears?
Anyway, I digress. Where is the transmission fluid dipstick? Is there anyway to describe what it looks like (color, shape) and where it is? I need to make sure that I have enough or not too much oil since about 4 liters came out when I emptied the pan each time. Does having too much oil lead to overpressure when heated and blow seals?
I think I can tell an immediate improvement in the shifting smoothness of the car.
Any help is appreciated.
Ric
You're not the first person to have difficulty finding the tranny dipstick, which is not even mentioned in the owner's manual.:mad: It is on the very front of the transmission, near the lower radiator hose. It's yellow, and you have to push a little clip on the stick to remove it. I think it is easiest to see when you are standing on the driver's side of the vehicle. The distance between the two marks on the stick are only 0.2L apart. Overfilling will cause foaming of the ATF, and can apparently be as harmful as underfilling. It is best to measure the level with the tranny hot (as in after a brisk drive on the highway) and with the engine running, so wear gloves and long sleeves to protect from burns. At least there's no moving parts nearby.;)
I'll give it another go tonight. Thanks.
Hello,
I have a 2001 VolvoXC...Did the Gibbons flush...BUT I'm not to sure of the AMOUNT of trans. fluid after the power flush. How many ltrs. to fill a flushed trans? How many ltrs. stay in trans. after flush? I need more Info. please
Did the flush tonight and for the most part things went pretty well (except for that damn green plug!).
The dipstick reads perfectly in the cold section right after I did the flush (I let it sit for a while before I did my reading).
How long do I need to drive before I can get an accurate reading at Hot? I did about a mile loop 2 times and didn't notice any sort of appreciable increase in the reading.
So after posting this I noticed the post above from VolvoShad about running it on the HW and then measure.
However - measure with the engine running? Does this apply on the cold reading as well? I was measuring with the engine off...
Engine running.
Bill
Thanks Bill. I did a few reads with the engine running and discovered that I was a bit low.Quote:
Originally Posted by BillAileo
One more question, if I may - I was finding that I didn't get a terribly good reading if the stick wasn't put in with the measuring lines facing a certain way (i.e. if measuring lines were towards the front, I really couldn't get a solid reading)
To ensure a reading that I could actually deduce from, I rotated the dipstick while in the hole. Is this consistent with anyone else's experience?
I found that the temperature makes a surprising difference in the reading on the dipstick. I measure mine at about 80C, which takes quite a bit of higher speed driving in warm weather to reach. I have a laser aimed infra-red thermometer I use to check the temp by shooting the transmission case.
There is graph in my Vadis software that shows the proper reading vs temperature. It shows that at one temperature temperature, you may be just right, and at another, off the chart. I will try to capture the image and post it.
The vadis documentation says to never use a towel to clean the dipstick because of fibers that might contaminate the tranmission. Now that's finnicky! I just wipe the stick with a paper towel, then a bunch of times with my fingers to remove any lint.
Getting the level right is the worst part of the job.
I still will go with removing the green clip :)Quote:
Originally Posted by gibbons
So with the variability in the reading, what is the liklihood that the flush at the dealer will get it accurate? I'm thinking that I/we are spending far more time on it than any tech.Quote:
Originally Posted by gibbons
Ditto.Quote:
Originally Posted by gibbons
I'm still not sure that I'm getting any sort of "real" reading with the cold fluid. I think I'm going to take it to the dealer to get their read on it. It just doesn't feel right as it currently is (what I'm seeing...not how it's driving).
I know that there is .2L of play inbetween then top and bottom lines, but when I think of how much was left in the tubes, on the sides of my transfer containers...there may have been a total of .2L right there after doing the flush/refill 5 times.
Here is the temp vs level chart, as you can see, the temperature makes a dramatic difference in what the reading should be, you gotta have a way to check the temp....
[Edit]Since there were two incorrect assumptions in the original post, I have rewritten it to avoid confusing anyone else.[/edit]Quote:
Originally Posted by gibbons
I found the temperature/level chart to be confusing, but now, after a few more hours straightening out a mistake I made, it makes more sense. I had a difficult time correlating the markings on my dipstick to the diagram on the chart, as the relative spacing on the dipstick is significantly different than on the chart. Especially the distance between the HOT and COLD areas.
But, leaving the relative scale of the chart aside, I am sure that the chart is indicating that at 40°C the level should be somewhere in the COLD area and at 80°C it should be somewhere in the HOT area. You can also use the chart to interpolate the correct level range for in-between temperatures, but that is a lot more difficult given the differences in proportions between the chart and the actual dipstick.
I checked my "cold" level before I flushed, when the transmission was truly cold (20°C), and found that it was slightly below the COLD area on the stick. After flushing the new cold level was about 1/3 of the way between the COLD and HOT areas, so at first I thought that I needed to pump out about 3 oz. But this was assuming that the 0.2L (6.6 oz) range was between the COLD min and the HOT max. My first bad assumption. The 0.2L range actually refers the difference between min and max levels at a given temperature. I finally figured this out after several attempts to pump out 3 oz. at a time were barely moving the level.
At first I thought the problem was that the temperature was changing while I was measuring, so to nail that down I came up with a process to minimize the temperature variation. I used an indoor / outdoor thermometer from Radio Shack. I could not get an accurate reading by placing the outdoor probe on the case of the transmission, so I resorted to inserting it in the dipstick tube, with a knot in the lead so it would go in no further than the length of the dipstick. This worked fine. I found with the engine running that the fluid temperature would rise about 0.1° C every 15 or 20 seconds. And since I could not measure the temperature while I was using the dipstick, I decided to shut off the motor and let the temperature fall slightly below 40°C then start the motor, and take two measurements with the dipstick before the temperature could climb above 40.5°.
Now I knew I had a valid temperature and accurate level, but my level was to still too high. It would not drop as much as I expected. It was then that I figured out my assumption about the 0.2L was wrong.
But why was my level so high? (It eventually turned out to be 25 - 31 oz. too high!!) That was caused by my second bad assumption. I assumed the 16 oz. graduated cup I was using to measure the discharged ATF was accurate. It was not! After checking I found it was over-reading by about 8%! This would not have mattered if I had used the same cup to measure the new ATF going in, but instead for refilling I relied on the assumption that each bottle of ATF contained exactly 32 oz. and used the graduations on the bottles to measure ounces when needed.
So lesson learned. If you do not use the same device to measure both output and input, be sure that all devices agree.
BTW, my flush went very well otherwise. My only issue, other than overfilling, was that some fluid apparently dripped out of the return line while it was disconnected. I didn't notice the spill in the drip tray behind the radiator until I was cleaning up. Good thing I didn't see it while I was flushing or I probably would have added another oz. or two to compensate and overfilled even more!
I also changed my coolant while I had the belly pan off, and I found that to be very easy too. Probably the easiest coolant change I have ever done, due to the handy petcocks on the rear of the block and under the radiator.
Thanks again Gibbons for posting your transmission flush instructions and now the chart from VADIS.
Add me to the ranks of the gibbonites!
Flushed about 17 qts of 3309 through today, very simple as has been said here. I still have to top up a bit, after a preliminary test drive and initial top up.
I noticed a little bit of rough shifting in auto mode from 1-2 and 2-3 on the initial drive, i am guessing because the level was a little low and there was still some air in the system.
I initially measured what came out with each cycle, but stopped measuring after the first 2 cycles because it was tedious and about 2 quarts came out with each cycle, so I just added 2 quarts after each cycle. This seemed to work ok and if I had done this from the beginning my wife would not be cursing me for using her pyrex measuring cup!
BTW the torque spec for the drain plug is 40 nm, from vadis, and it is 24 mm.
Hello everyone!
First post here !
Really love this site and people !
Thanks to everyone who make the effort and patience for giving good information about our Cross-Country !!
About a week now i am a new owner of a 2002 xc70 with 180.000km on it.
Last tuesday i flush my oil trans. with Gibbons style and everything went Ok!
I was changing my oil because it was dirty and the trans. giving me a small delay from Park to drive or Reverse to Drive (about 1-2 sec) Is it normal ??
With all the info i took here on the forum, i decide to use the Toyota fluid !
I mean TYPE T-IV. It was $7.37 / L ! Volvo was $33.00 / L
In my case, i flush with 12L and it was very clean after. And the magnet on the plug have a small amount of black paste!
The verdic after 4 days using it!!!
On the road the Shifting are smoother and no more delay from Park to Reverse
and drive to reverse, but, still have a small delay from Park to Drive or Reverse to Drive.
Will let you know if something new
Erik
I am going to have my o1XC's gearbox flushed by Toyota type IV tomorrow. Will let all you guys know if there is anything wrong.
Did mine using Gibbons around 2 weeks ago.
Feels like a new car. Shifting is smooth, no more flare between 2 & 3.
What a great tip. And, I saved, what, $250 in labor from the stealership?
Flushed mine two days ago. Great result - smooth shifts. I also used Toyota T-IV. Bought 16L @ $7.36/L at Toyota dealership here in Calgary. Used 13L altogether.
Thanks!
oouu another calgarian. Are there pictures for the gibbons method?
There is a picture at the beginning of the thread with the transmission cooler hose location, which is all you need. I picked up 10' of a 3/4" clear vinyl hose and a funnel with a measuring cup on top and has an ON/OFF valve (it is made out of a clear vinyl tubing instead of hard plastic and fits perfectly in the transmission dipstick hole) at Canadian Tire, 5L measuring jug from NAPA and T-IV fluid from Heninger Toyota on McLeod. I just followed Gibbons instructions and it all went pretty good. The only surprise was when draining the old fluid I did not put the measuring jug I used to collect the oil in the right place so I spilled some oil on the garage floor and then had to fish for the plug since it ended up in the jug.
Cheers
Is the consensus that the Toyota Type IV fluid meets the same specs as the Mobile 3309? And that the Toyota fluid is just fine to use?
I think it'd be easier to find the toyota fluid than the mobile.
thanks,
Can anybody confirm the above question please i.e. is the Toyota Type IV "3309" compliant?Quote:
Originally Posted by Jorge-789995
Take a look at Mobil's specification sheet for its JWS 3309 compliant ATF, Mobil 3309:
http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lub...l_ATF_3309.asp
and look at the Toyota line in the chart. I interpret this and the many postings elsewhere on the use of Toyota Type IV as meaning both Mobil 3309 and Toyota Type IV meet the JWS 3309 specification.
Bill