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According to VADIS the part number for the transmission drain plug gasket is 977751. VADIS also shows the engine oil drain plug gasket for the '04 as having part number 977751. I believe the aluminum crush washer which FCP Groton says is part number 977751 is what you need.
Bill
Wow, thanks Bill...you da Man!
I re-used mine, it hasn't leaked, but for $0.20, I think that I will replace it next time.:D
This may turn out to be the longest string on the forum, and rightly so! I replaced by transmission fluid using the "Gibbons Way" two weekends ago, and it was indeed 'Really easy, really effective.' Thanks, Gibbons, for posting that. I add my voice to the choir.
For those that may be reluctant to do this, my 77K miles '02 now shifts much more responsively, and the process is not messy if you plan ahead for potential drips. If you want to keep your Volvo for a while and minimize expenses, I believe this is one of the most cost-effective ways to do it. I did this despite having over a year to go on my extended warantee. [thumbup]
Scott
FYI, I just got Toyota's version ATF Type lV for $3.97 a quart. Another dealer wanted a bit more.Quote:
Originally Posted by mrtippy
purchased the IPD flush kit and secured 20 minutes from my sat morning to flush the V70. for 02 year forward IPD says to remove LOWER line from radiator. I pushed, prodded, squeezed and pulled the line with the green clip but to no avail. Ultimately, removed the lower air dam to gain better access, but no luck. After 3 hours and retreated to the fridge for my Sierra Nevadas. Two questions for the forum 1) does anyone know how to remove a stubborn line with the green clips and 2) is it the lower trans line for P2 that need to be reomoved (some debate on this I've seen on the forum).
Thanks,
I haven't seen the IPD P2 directions, but I know that the procedure outlined in this thread by Gibbons is basically the same as the steps outlined in VADIS and I'd recommend sticking with them. As to removal of the green clip I have found it necessary to squeeze the clip and push it in first and then out while maintaining the squeeze pressure throughout the process.
Bill
Agree with Bill, it has to be easier to use the upper (return) line. I used a hose pliers, squeezed the green clip, pushed in first, then pulled out leveraging with the long pliers. I think this may be the hardest part of the procedure.:rolleyes:
I believe that the IPD instructions have you connect your clear tubing to the transmission line itself, i.e., you shove the tube over the line end. On the '02 (actually '01+), this would be the lower line, which is precooler, and the ATF flows out of the line. Gibbons' method attaches the clear tubing to the upper radiator opening, i.e., you shove the tube into the hole after disconnecting upper line. THis is postcooler, but the net effect is the same: ATF flows out of the upper radiator opening.
I recently bought a MY02 with 70K miles and figured it probably never had an ATF flush. The shifting felt rough and getting out of park and into reverse was jerky. I bought two cases of Mobil 3309 through AVLube and a flexible hose transmission funnel. I read the Gibbons method and an additional approach of repeatedly draining the pan. I read about folks shifting through gears to open up areas of used oil during the oil change so I opted for the repeated pan draining technique. I figured that after each drain and refill cycle I would pull the car off the ramps and drive it around for a couple of miles and manually shift through the gears and drive around in reverse.
So I started my flush by draining the oil out of the pan. Instead of 3.1 liters coming out as indicated in earlier posts, I got a little over 3.8 liters. I cleaned up the bolt and put it back. I then took the air intake hose out to gain better access to the transmission fluid dipstick. I peered around and couldn't find it. Where is the new transmission fluid suppose to go?:eek: I found a pitot tube like thing that had a hose with two clamps on it that looked like it might accept fluid but the hole was way too small to put a funnel in. Everyone who has done the Gibbons method talks about putting new transmission fluid in but no one shows a picture of where it goes. Maybe because it's so hard to get to.
Well after sweating for ten minutes and fearing I would have to tell my wife that I indeed couldn't complete the job (not something I wanted to do after chastizing her for not having confidence in my ability to do this job), I came upon a bright idea. I know that the oil comes out of the top of the radiator hole and through the tube with the green clip back into the transmission. All I have to do is feed the oil into that tube. The transmission oil funnel I bought has volume markings on it and a flexible plastic tube that fit perfectly over the o-rings on the green clip. I hooked that up and poured four quarts back into the transmission. I then clipped the tube back into the radiator, drove around shifting through the gears and then repeated the process 3 more times. I went through 16 quarts of oil and the stuff coming out got cleaner but it never got to the cleanliness that was shown in the posts where the control tube and the flush were compared.
The next time I perform a flush I think I'll try pumping the fluid out the radiator like the Gibbons method but put the new oil back in the tube like this past time. The only problem is that I won't shift through gears to get to more dirty pockets of oil. I can shift from park, to reverse, neutral and drive (holding the brake of course). Is it necessary to go through 1st-5th gears?
Anyway, I digress. Where is the transmission fluid dipstick? Is there anyway to describe what it looks like (color, shape) and where it is? I need to make sure that I have enough or not too much oil since about 4 liters came out when I emptied the pan each time. Does having too much oil lead to overpressure when heated and blow seals?
I think I can tell an immediate improvement in the shifting smoothness of the car.
Any help is appreciated.
Ric