Just purchased 2000 V70XC. Mistake?

Hello, about a month ago my trusty little 93 Subaru AWD wagon with 250,000 miles was involved in an accident and I had to get a new car. Previous to the Suby I owned an 86 Volvo 240 wagon that had approximately 400,000 miles on it before I sold it, still in running condition (barely). This time I picked up a 2000 VolvoV70XC with 164,000 miles for $1200, knowing I would be putting some $ into it but not expecting the amount it has already cost me. True, a lot of the work is related to neglected maintenance, but since I am not a mechanic I may have made a very costly mistake. I am wondering if I should continue to spend $ to replace the motor mounts, CV joints, control arms, strut mounts, and front cam seals, or just cut my losses now before putting in another $2000 and get a newer car with the dreaded associated car payments. If by doing the rest of the work I can reasonably expect to get another 100,000 miles out of this car then it might be worth it to me. However, if that is unheard of for these cars then I think I should just sell it now at a loss now before dumping more $ into it. Suggestions? Here is the big list of what has been done to the car within the last year:

$1200 car
Work previous owner had recently done:
New tires
New battery
Ignition coil
Spark plugs + wiring
Rear brake pads and rotors replaced
Heater core replaced
Turbo hose replaced

Shop service I just had done:
$1800: check engine light came on 1st week
Pcv breather box replaced
Thermostat replaced
Throttle module replaced
Rear cam seal replaced
Oil filler cap replaced
$380: discovered awd not working in snow, 2nd week
viscous coupling
$550
timing belt & water pump
$500
ignition and key

DIY:
$200
Pick n pull scrapyard and other various parts
Front turn signal light: repaired
Fog lights and bulbs replaced
Windshield washer squirter repaired
Window switch: replaced, repaired
Radio lights: replaced
Fuel door: modified
Cup holder: repaired
Hood latch: repaired cable and left hood latch
Front middle hood latch: replaced
Bottom dash panel replaced, modified
Middle dashboard vent: replaced
Rear door panel: replaced clips
Door lights: replaced, bulbs replaced
Headlight wiper arm replaced
Headlight wiper blades replaced
Shift knob button lubricated
Interior bolt hole covers: replaced
Rear speaker grilles replaced
Hood rubber bumpers replaced
Floor mat tab: replaced
Locking gas cap installed
Hole in front bumper filled, covered
Headlight bulbs replaced
License plate lightbulbs replaced
License plate frames: replaced, repaired
License plates: changed

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Originally Posted by Joneo

I am wondering if I should continue to spend $ to replace the motor mounts, CV joints, control arms, strut mounts, and front cam seals,

or just cut my losses now before putting in another $2000 and get a newer car

If by doing the rest of the work I can reasonably expect to get another 100,000 miles out of this car then it might be worth it to me.

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Edmunds.com suggests a clean - "Clean - Some normal wear but no major mechanical or cosmetic problems; may require limited reconditioning" 2000 xc w 164k miles is worth about $1600. Adding up your expenses you already have $4610 in this car. And you have only owned it 30 days.

I would drive the car with noisy motor mounts, rattling cv joints, loose front end due to worn control arms, and replace the 1 strut mount that is bad (they seem to be the most annoying to me - the loud rattle over bumps) As long as the front cam seals are not leaking badly the car is still driveable. (by the way - they should have been done when the cam belt or pcv was replaced, and the very reliable water pump should only be replaced if leaking)

Unfortunately, you have just found out how much it takes to put an older Volvo back into excellent condition.

Is seems the previous owner just did what was absolutely needed to keep the car on the road, perhaps you should have that attitude also and keep as many dollars in your pocket for a down payment on your next car.

If you do decide to spend more - a few other expensive things that break on older v70's are

Alternator
Positive battery cable and positive cable to fusebox under hood (poor connections keep car from starting/cause running problems)
Ac compressor (Clutch gap, stops working when hot)
AC evaporator (leaks, no ac :( )
heater fan motor or resistor
Any AWD part (driveshaft, angle gear)
Cooling system - Radiator, reservoir, hoses, coolant level sensor
Front wheel bearings

Those items would total several/many thousand dollars to replace also.

Thanks for the reply. The rear cam seals were replaced when the PCV was serviced, now another shop says the front cam seals are leaking. Also the radiator hoses were said to be leaking so that would be next on the list as well. If I knew what I was getting myself into I would have just bought a newer car. Am hoping that this one will last a few years to make this time and money spent all worthwhile.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Joneo

Am hoping that this one will last a few years

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Yes it will last a very long time - as long as you are willing to spend $$$ on it starting with basic stuff that should have been fixed by the previous owner all along. :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Joneo

Thanks for the reply. The rear cam seals were replaced when the PCV was serviced, now another shop says the front cam seals are leaking. Also the radiator hoses were said to be leaking so that would be next on the list as well. If I knew what I was getting myself into I would have just bought a newer car. Am hoping that this one will last a few years to make this time and money spent all worthwhile.

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You have my sympathy.I also made the mistake of thinking that the more modern Volvos were as rugged and reliable as their predecessors but rthe scales have now been stripped from my eyes.Yes ,it is a lovely car to drive,though I would have preferred a manual transmission,unfortunately the driving only comes in short bursts before something else needs attention.Admittedly,I overpaid for this car(2001 xc70)but I wrongly assumed that Volvos still held their price the way they used to.WRONG.With the money and time I have spent on this car I could have bought a ten year newer Subaru that would likely have required little or nothing other than oil changes and possibly brake pads and could probably look forward to trouble free motoring for the next 2 or 3 hundred thousand miles the way my last one did(still going by the way after 360000.Guess I'm going to bite the bullet and give it away(If I can find a mug)and get some thing reliable.

A 2000! That's my favorite one. :)

Welcome to the forum, and the wonderful world of Volvo, Joneo! :D

Now you can't read too?
He said a 2001 and he's in the WRONG FORUM

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Originally Posted by JRL

Now you can't read too?
He said a 2001 and he's in the WRONG FORUM

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The OP does indeed have 2000 - It's Geoff69a1 from post 5 that has the 2001 P2.
I would agree that comparing a 2000 to a 2001 is a whole different kettle of fish.
The 2001 goes from basic module networking to a CEM that gets involved in most
all of the electrical systems in the car and has several other significant differences.

For my money, I prefer the simplicity of the '98, but I'd take a 2000 over an '01 P2
and keep it in the P80 family. But that's just me - People tell me I'm wrong a lot... ;)

To answer the OP question, these can run forever if well taken care of, but as stated
earlier - If the car has not been well maintained in it's first 17 years...

The way I look at it is I really like this car and the way it works. Simple, no extra systems
like nav or touch screens distracting me from driving. When I'm behind the wheel, I'm there
to drive and be in that moment, not dick around with over intrusive systems or social media.
And at the end of the day, I'd rather pay out in maintenance than car payments.

Different strokes - You make the call! [thumbup]

You're right, he should have not interjected

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JRL

You're right, he should have not interjected

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Don't be a jerk to these people, bro-bro.

I will interject as I see fit.