Hey JRL,
Sorrry to go direct to the source instead of posting - still not sure I see how to do that.
Do you know a suitable adhesive to use to re-cement the rubber to the metal on a 2000 steady bearing (outer bond)- it appears that losing the bond there is all I am dealing with right now.

Pm Me the $$ on the red P1 - I may have a freind...

It's in the latch itself or the latch adjustment

I've followed your messages for a while on this and other Volvo sites. You appear to know the cars well and I thought to ask you dierctly about the Tailgate warning light. My 2000 V70 XC AWD is showing the light. I have the wiring diagram to see if I can make sense of it. The latch is operational, despite the broken plastic piece and the loose spring that has been discussed in the forums. I am looking for a way to close the circuit to get the light off until I get a replacement latch. Can you tell me if there is a way to either complete or open the circuit to get the light off? Thanks for any help you can offer!

Saw your visit to my public profile, JRL... in the interests of full disclosure, I'm an ex-cop who moved to the sticks after many years of uniform then detective/independent bodyguard work, skip-tracing and firearms/self-defense instruction with many wonderful people and organizations such as Masaad Ayoob from LFI and a host of other professionals. Now I try and learn about my Volvo and enjoy the country life, hunting and camping with my kids here in Vermont. Will be moving back to CA in mid-August- got a great security job close to all the rust-free Volvos I can count soon. I've developed a number of high-tech security equipment and have acquired the funding on the west coast. If you want to find me, look West, JRL. I'll be the guy in the Hawaiian shirt and a big, VC-funded smile, demonstrating a strange-looking search device... if you'd like to talk, I'll be staying with friends at: 1121 Lakeview Drive, Felton, CA... stop by for a beer and a shot! ;^)

Purge valve is in the LF of the engine compartment

Hey JRL,
You seem to have a lot of Volvo experience...I have a question that may have a simple answer but I doubt it.
I have a code for evap shutoff valve, and one for a short in the evap circuit. In the smaller fuse box under the hood, there is a 20A fuse for the evap system which pops instantly when the key is turned on, thus the code for the short circuit(no-brainer). In your experience, would you guess the shutoff valve is bad/shorted, or is it more likely in the wiring headed to the back toward the valve? Without a diagram, I have no idea what that 20A fuse protects.
I appreciate your help.
Terry

Hi JRL:

I am a Volvo newbie. I recently posted the following (below) in the forum, and a kind member (ecbsykes) told me that you might be able to help me.

Thank you,
Tom Isenbarger



I have found (in local classified ad) a 2000 XC with 120,000 miles. There's a little rust on a door, but looks pretty good. Asking price is 6850.

Before I purchase this car, what questions should I ask and what things should I look for? I am a smart guy, but not a gearhead. Also, what kinds of maintenance issues should I anticipate with this car? Anything else I should know? Unsolicited advice is fine! Thanks.

One mechanic I called said that these cars typically need to have the angle gears and drive shafts replaced, at a total cost around $5000. Any comments on that

totally forgot you want me to bring them end of this week ?

just wounder how much would i have to pay for 08 xc 70 at the auction. I am looking for something under 20k miles. I am from Chicago but if i find something for a realy good price i will have no problem going to other state to purchase. I found few cars here for 25-26 k $. I just want it to be clean carfax. Maybe you have one at a good price