05 XC70 Oil changing questions

[Pete S]

Hello,

We have had our XC70 for a bit over a year now. Since the purchase we have taken the car to the dealer for oil changes, and I would like to start doing these on my own as I do all the others here.

I do have several questions:

1.) When purchased (a sales tactic I'm sure) we were told that you would need to purchse filters from the dealer, and buy a "special" tool. Where can one find (good/oem) filters outside of dealships, AND what is the tool(s) I need to remove the filter

2.) I have yet to "Hunt" the filter location down. Are there any tips for "Minimal shroud" removal, etc. to extracate this filter/housing?

3.) Any other tips for removal and installation? I have read some posts about "Plastic housing" problems, leaks, torques, etc. and I'm an hour or so from the nearest dealer!

Thanks in advance for your responses.
Pete

[BillAileo]

(1) You certainly don't have to buy filters from the dealer. IPD (http://www.ipdusa.com) and FCP Groton (http://www.fcpgroton.com/P2Series/P2tuneup.htm) are two other sources that get mentioned frequently for filters and other parts. My most recent purchase was a ten pack of them from IPD when they were on sale. The filters on these cars are nonmetallic cartridges that are held in place by a plastic housing. Some form of special tool that is formed to mesh with the top of the plastic is necessary to remove the plastic housing without damage. Both IPD and FCP Groton offer a low cost filter removal tool for about $7.00. FWIW: Some dealers offer parts discounts to customers that are VOCA members that can make their parts prices close to or even better than other sources.
(2) If you have the original "shroud" you need to remove it to get at the filter. Removing it is a good idea anyway because it will give you the opportunity to check for early signs of problems, for example check to see if any oil is seeping from the bevel gear (or anywhere else). The filter is located on the bottom front edge of the oil pan on the passenger side of the car. It should be fairly obvious once the shroud is off.
(3) You should plan on replacing the oil drain plug washer each time you change the oil. These washers are designed to work through their compression on installation and reuse can result in a leak, or stripping of the threads in the oil pan if they are overtightened. Another option, which I do for all my vehicles, is to purchase a Fumoto valve (http://www.fumotovalve.com) that replaces the oil drain plug with a special brass ball valve.

I haven't had any problems with the plastic housings. When putting one in place, I recommend starting them by hand without any tool so you can feel that it is not cross threaded and is going on properly. A new filter insert should come with a new large O-ring that replaces the O-ring on the plastic housing.

FWIW: I also recommend fully synthetic oil.


Bill

[dr.tb.xc]

Hi Pete. Welcome to the forum.

Oil changes are nothing difficult on your XC. Yes, you should buy an inexpensive and readily available oil filter cap wrench [here's an example (http://cgi.ebay.com/VOLVO-Oil-Filter-WRENCH-XC90-XC70-S60-V70-S40-V40-NEW_W0QQitemZ220031051641QQihZ012QQcategoryZ33661Q QtcZphotoQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem) on eBay, though ipd also sells them]. The filter elements can also be purchased in multiples on eBay. This will save you a few bucks over the dealer price. Here's a current link (http://cgi.ebay.com/4-Oil-Filter-Volvo-S40-S60-C70-S70-S80-V70-XC90-XC70_W0QQitemZ300029384436QQihZ020QQcategoryZ33661 QQtcZphotoQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem).

You'll need to replace the O-ring on the cover, and the filter elements come with those. It's also recommended to replace the aluminum washer on the oil drain bolt, but I only do so every few oil changes and have never had a leak. ipd also sells a magnetic replacement drain plug (good idea) along with the filter elements and wrenches for the filter cover. Here's a link (http://www.ipdusa.com/productscat.aspx?CategoryID=566&NodeID=76&RootID=629) to the page where you can find all of this and more.

If you don't already have one, you should buy a torque wrench. Complete removal of the plastic engine shroud is a non-issue. There are perhaps six bolts securing it.

There's a lot you, as an owner, can't service on this vehicle, but changing your own oil is an excellent way of assuring that the job's been done properly and a great opportunity to inspect the underside of your engine and transmission for leaks, etc.

Best of luck, and again, welcome to the family.

-Todd

[Doh! Just noticed that Bill Aileo has beaten me to the punch and answered all your questions much more eloquently than I have. It's all good advise, especially the bid about only using synthetic oil. Though the manual says to change the oil at 7,500 mile intervals, and the rest of the automotive world says to do so every 3,000 miles, personally, I change my oil every 5,000 miles (for ease of remembering) and only use Mobile 1.

[Pete S]

Thanks to both of you [Bill & Todd],

Todd, although you did "double up" with Bill on the reply, it only reafirms what needs to be done.

I am very interested in the oil filter wrenches that you gave me a link to on ebay. I am familiar with the crush style washer that seal at the drian plug, don't know why they feel that is necessary, but aparently Volvo feels that is was a good idea.............. For those of us who intend to change oil a lot, for a long time.

I know this oil issue has probably discussed in great depth, but is the synthetic oil something that is a REAL recomendation? I have been using Castrol for years now and intend to change every 3000 miles on our XC70 also.

Opinions and thoughts are appreciatedand respected, note the dealer utilized non synthetic Castrol.

Thanks!
Pete

[Jack]

(1) Another option, which I do for all my vehicles, is to purchase a Fumoto valve (http://www.fumotovalve.com) that replaces the oil drain plug with a special brass ball valve.
Bill

Bill,

These valves look interesting. I've been hesitant with previous cars but the plastic shield under the Volvo makes me think it would be very unlikely for it to open by mistake. Their web site says the Volvo needs an adaptor due to a recessed plug. Is this correct and does the valve clear the plastic shield properly?

TIA

Jack

[BillAileo]

To me the real value of a full synthetic is the knowledge that it maintains its flow characteristics in extremes far better than regular oil. So if you are going to be starting the car, for example, in very cold temperatures, the oil is promptly getting where it needs to be. Depending upon the number of such starts, etc, that can mean a lot for engine longevity. There are similar benefits to use in high temperature situations. If you don't plan on keeping the car too long it probably doesn't matter. I tend to pass my vehicles on to the kids and, in my opinion, the cost of synthetic is worth it.

FWIW: Although Volvo dealers generally install non-synthetic, especially if they are paying for it, Volvo does recommend synthetic for heavy use like towing.

Bill

[maka]

Pete

I also have 05 XC and beleive that you should have 4 free services (7.5K, 15K, etc.) which include oil change. Not sure if you're aware of that, but I'd be working on the oil change myself once past 30k and last free service.

just my $.02

[BillAileo]

Jack,

Yes, you need the adapter and yes, it does clear the shield.

Bill

[Jack]

Thanks Bill, I think I'll pick up a couple.

Jack

[Pete S]

Thanks for all the repiles!

Well, I got'er dun, and without a hitch. One of the replies made some comment about "doing it myself to make sure it was done correctly..." When I pulled the skid pan free, and found the oil filter canister, I noticed that it "appeared" to be leaking. WOW,...........that O ring must be critical.

THEN I removed the oil filter housing, and sure enough the drips made the same pattern on the bottom of the pan. Wherein as, I have made the assumption that my Volvo Dealer's mechanics must not have any rags OR brake cleaner to clean off the surfaces after assembling things. Lazy Bastids!!

Initially, when I saw that this was a cartridge filter, I thought this was a step backward. Once the canister was removed, I was able to examine the filter material, and thouroughly wipe out/clean the canister housing,............which was probably the FIRST TIME this was ever performed. Appied some Sil-Glide to the O ring and she went together real sweet! (no leaks)

I did notice that my Bevel Gear housing appeared to be just a bit sweaty with an oil film, although it didn't appear to be "leaking". 25,500 miles

Again thanks for the help as well puttin' up with my rant!

I love my [wife's] XC70

Pete

[tgwillard]

I took delivery on my 2006 XC70 and earlier asked here about when to change the oil and with what. I have been using Mobil One for years and did not want my new Volvo to face the cold winter temperatures with regular oil. I put 2500 miles on the car before changing to Mobil One. I plan on continuing to use a synthetic oil (I see my Volvo owner's manual recommends Castrol) and will change again at 7500 miles and at 7500 mile intervals from then on.

I will have to ask either the dealer (if I decide to get my free service there, with me supplying the synthetic since I am sure they would not) or my local mechanic about the crush washer. At my mechanics I can watch the procedure through a big window, which I appreciate. They take their time with the oil change and checking the other fluids.