Tyrolier
07-16-2006, 04:11 PM
Gang,
I just made a trip from Dallas, Texas to Baltimore, Maryland and back. Total distance travelled approx 3300 miles. I had myself and about 100 lbs of cargo in the car. Average speed reported was 68 mph. Ambient driving temperature ranged from 68F -> 105F. During the trip, two things happened which have obvious secondary impact depending on what corrective action is taken. I spoke with my son (a mechanic) and he was at a loss to provide a reliable/safe solution to this rather complex problem. Both dealerships also drew a blank, hence I believe it's time to ask the experts here :)
a) The Castrol 10W-40 Syntec started breaking down by the time I reached my destination in Maryland (only 1600 miles). I could smell the viscosity breakdown in the oil fill cap, as well as see the oil darkened from the trip. The color of the oil was very much like that of strong tea. The 'finger-thumb' grit test at the dipstick did not give me any indication of anything other than normal. This is in spite of the oil cooler that is already installed. Knowing I had an issue I immediately had the oil changed and did so again upon return to Texas and saw nearly the same level of darkening. I also had all boots checked, replacing 1. There was no evidence of grease spray, so we considered this a preventative measure.
b) At some point, as explained by my Insurance Agent, I must have encountered a dust / pebble storm (which I am told is VERY common in western Texas near El Paso). Examination of the car shows *every* surface must be sanded and completely refinished (painted and clearcoated). A heavier / thicker painting & clearcoating is recommended and I will gladly pay the out of pocket if needed. The front grill and bumper must be replaced. The windscreen and headlamps 'minimally' need resurfacing, possibly replacing.
(minimally 14 days effort and $4000+ cosmetic damage)
c) The undercarriage shows similar marks / dings (including the protective cover for the engine bay). The rear bumper, however, has 'distorted' on it's leading edge, as if it were 'scooping air'. I do see where there was apparantly a bracket/brace of some time that may have been lost a while go without my even noticing it. After making the detailed exam, I cannot remember if there was a protective plate there or not when I got the car, but evidence of its presence at some point is undeniable.
The 'game plan' as I currently have it is put the car into the shop and have it repainted completely with the additional coats of paint and clearcoat. As for the oil / undercarriage, this is where I am at a loss.
I have a great deal of heat buildup on the hood from the turbo which I think is because the current protective plate is not allowing enough air flow. So, given the need to reduct / correct air flow & cooling, I am contemplating putting the entire metal skid plating (which appears to provide better airflow management) from front to rear (including having it wrap up and around the rear bumper similar to the current design) into the subframe to protect the heavy duty transaxles, etc. My concern is how to achieve this protection *and* keep the engine /drivetrain /turbo /hood, etc all properly cooled in the high ambient temperature conditions as well as protect the car.
In concert with this, pre and/or post installation, I believe I need to make a change in oil viscosity or brand.
I am asking if anyone would mind sharing opinions / recommendations for a 'total solution'. I am willing to have custom vents crafted for the hood, like those of the current Aston DB9 (for example only), instead of relying on the current exit of air upwards along the A-pillar and at the base of the firewall after flowing over the engine and turbo. I have checked the engine & fuel rail temperatures after driving. The intake manifold is obviously quite warm and the fuel cooler is doing its job (I can hold the fuel rail and not get burned).
I greatly would appreciate all comments / dialogue on the pieces of this puzzle and its correction.
On an upside note: The car is otherwise perfect. A complete software reload (by the Volvo N/A engineer) perfomed miracles. I have features working now that were intermittant or even nonfunctional before. The new HU-803 is absolutely fabulous (thanks for the tweaks)! The A/C does a great job of cooling Nautic Blue/Black in Texas with NO problems in about 15 minutes (120F+ down to a cool steering wheel). The dealer windshield heat reflector works GREAT. It REALLY keeps the car a lot cooler!
Thank you in advance.
I just made a trip from Dallas, Texas to Baltimore, Maryland and back. Total distance travelled approx 3300 miles. I had myself and about 100 lbs of cargo in the car. Average speed reported was 68 mph. Ambient driving temperature ranged from 68F -> 105F. During the trip, two things happened which have obvious secondary impact depending on what corrective action is taken. I spoke with my son (a mechanic) and he was at a loss to provide a reliable/safe solution to this rather complex problem. Both dealerships also drew a blank, hence I believe it's time to ask the experts here :)
a) The Castrol 10W-40 Syntec started breaking down by the time I reached my destination in Maryland (only 1600 miles). I could smell the viscosity breakdown in the oil fill cap, as well as see the oil darkened from the trip. The color of the oil was very much like that of strong tea. The 'finger-thumb' grit test at the dipstick did not give me any indication of anything other than normal. This is in spite of the oil cooler that is already installed. Knowing I had an issue I immediately had the oil changed and did so again upon return to Texas and saw nearly the same level of darkening. I also had all boots checked, replacing 1. There was no evidence of grease spray, so we considered this a preventative measure.
b) At some point, as explained by my Insurance Agent, I must have encountered a dust / pebble storm (which I am told is VERY common in western Texas near El Paso). Examination of the car shows *every* surface must be sanded and completely refinished (painted and clearcoated). A heavier / thicker painting & clearcoating is recommended and I will gladly pay the out of pocket if needed. The front grill and bumper must be replaced. The windscreen and headlamps 'minimally' need resurfacing, possibly replacing.
(minimally 14 days effort and $4000+ cosmetic damage)
c) The undercarriage shows similar marks / dings (including the protective cover for the engine bay). The rear bumper, however, has 'distorted' on it's leading edge, as if it were 'scooping air'. I do see where there was apparantly a bracket/brace of some time that may have been lost a while go without my even noticing it. After making the detailed exam, I cannot remember if there was a protective plate there or not when I got the car, but evidence of its presence at some point is undeniable.
The 'game plan' as I currently have it is put the car into the shop and have it repainted completely with the additional coats of paint and clearcoat. As for the oil / undercarriage, this is where I am at a loss.
I have a great deal of heat buildup on the hood from the turbo which I think is because the current protective plate is not allowing enough air flow. So, given the need to reduct / correct air flow & cooling, I am contemplating putting the entire metal skid plating (which appears to provide better airflow management) from front to rear (including having it wrap up and around the rear bumper similar to the current design) into the subframe to protect the heavy duty transaxles, etc. My concern is how to achieve this protection *and* keep the engine /drivetrain /turbo /hood, etc all properly cooled in the high ambient temperature conditions as well as protect the car.
In concert with this, pre and/or post installation, I believe I need to make a change in oil viscosity or brand.
I am asking if anyone would mind sharing opinions / recommendations for a 'total solution'. I am willing to have custom vents crafted for the hood, like those of the current Aston DB9 (for example only), instead of relying on the current exit of air upwards along the A-pillar and at the base of the firewall after flowing over the engine and turbo. I have checked the engine & fuel rail temperatures after driving. The intake manifold is obviously quite warm and the fuel cooler is doing its job (I can hold the fuel rail and not get burned).
I greatly would appreciate all comments / dialogue on the pieces of this puzzle and its correction.
On an upside note: The car is otherwise perfect. A complete software reload (by the Volvo N/A engineer) perfomed miracles. I have features working now that were intermittant or even nonfunctional before. The new HU-803 is absolutely fabulous (thanks for the tweaks)! The A/C does a great job of cooling Nautic Blue/Black in Texas with NO problems in about 15 minutes (120F+ down to a cool steering wheel). The dealer windshield heat reflector works GREAT. It REALLY keeps the car a lot cooler!
Thank you in advance.