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View Full Version : DIY - 2001 XC OEM 2" Tow Hitch



jmoser
08-30-2004, 08:00 AM
Just installed the Volvo factory 2 inch (50 mm) receiver hitch on my 2001 XC wagon. Overall it was not too difficult, but if you are considering doing this yourself I offer the following advice:

- Do not attempt unless you are 'very' mechanically inclined and own a fairly complete set of tools including 6 point 1/2" drive metric sockets, large torque wrench, pop rivet tool, 10" nipper pliers, and torx bits.

- Hardest part of the job is removing the rivet holding the heat shield to the muffler/silencer bracket; 2nd hardest is reinstalling the heat shield using the replacement screw. Hint: Drill out the heat shield rivet and nip off the bumper rivets (exact opposite of the installation instructions.) When reinstalling the heat shield you do need to bash it in place with the large screwdriver and mallet, exactly as shown in the instructions. (This is the first time I have ever seen this useful method endorsed by a factory instruction manual, now I feel better having utilized it on all those other jobs over the years. I don't really know what other use there is for those huge screwdrivers I own except as a pry bar or giant punch, that's the only thing I ever use them for.)

- When reinstalling the bumper I had difficulty reconnecting the plastic antenna connector, but even disconnected the radio reception is fine. Make sure to align the connector with the hole in the metal body when reinstalling the bumper.

- When tightening / loosening the 4 bumper bolts from inside be careful not to drop the OEM extension nuts or your 13mm socket down into the irrecoverable dark canyon of death between the cargo area and the rear of the car.

- When cutting out the 'hole' in the bumper fascia don't worry about being too precise, after installation you will see that you have plenty of clearance and the cutout is totally invisible. Do not use a Sawzall (reciprocating saw) as suggested in the instructions, I used a Dremel tool with a 1" circular saw blade made for plastic/wood. You could use a small keyhole saw or coping saw too, you could even cut it out with a heavy duty utility knife if you had too.

In any case I have a factory 2" hitch installed for $175, plus the wife approves of its neat, subdued, but not quite invisible appearance. I am not using this for a trailer tow (bike rack and cargo platform) so I did not buy the wiring harness.

I will say that this hitch obviously changes [improves?] the rear end impact resistance, the bumper is a joke -flimsy piece of plastic, and the car body is just folded sheet metal. I guess the rear of the XC is designed as a 'crush zone,' with the hitch installed it will not 'accordian' in any more, the recent pictures posted on this forum clearly show how the impact force will be carried by the hitch member, they also illustrate how the roof supports the hitch load and how you will buckle it if you overload the hitch tongue weight.

Regards -

Jeff

slowflyer
08-31-2004, 03:26 PM
Congrats on your install.

When I installed an aftermarket hitch I considered removing the heat shield rivet but was able to lower the whole shield by removing plastic nuts forward.

Since there is a post in the resource section on installing an aftermarket hitch maybe you could do likewise showing the factory hitch. Hitch questions come up fairly regularly on this forum. It would be useful.

dtlayman
09-03-2005, 02:31 PM
Great information. Thanks for sharing.

As I begin to make sure I have everything I need to install and also feel comfortable going forward I have a few questions.

1. Did you have to remove the battery?
2. You mention the plastic antenna connector - The directions I have seem to show the antenna connector underneath the floor in the rear - how does this relate to the bumper?
3. Rivots - Did you get extra rivots from the dealer?
4. Chassis - Did you notice that the instructions refer to 2 different chassis numbers with 2 different procedures for cutting the hold in the bumper - How do you find out which chassis number you have - CH173000 or CH172999? It appears that the template provided with the instructions is applicable to the CH172999.
5. Removing underseal - What is this compound made of and how should you remove? Can you get this from somewhere beside the dealer to replace?

Thanks.

dtlayman
09-05-2005, 08:23 PM
We had to take off the bumper. It wasn't that bad.

The advice in the original post was very helpful to the process.

A couple of questions/comments:

1. The rivets - What size rivet tool works with the factory supplied rivets? We purchased a rivet tool but I think I may have jambed it - I am guessing these are metric rivets so the tool we purchased won't work.
2. The sliding pieces on each side of the bumper behind the the rear wheels - You take the screw out of these to remove the bumper. They fall off when you remove the bumper. What is best way to put them back? I put them back on the car (slide as far forward toward the rear wheels as possible) and then installed the bumper. I then installed the 1 torx screw in each and then I pulled the edge of the bumper over this piece.
3. I agree that the bolts that fasten to the bumper from the inside of the wheel well can get away from you - I had to get a magnet to get a couple out. If anyone has a good trick to prevent these bolts from falling off your ratchet please advise.
4. Cutting the bumper - Used a Dremel with a multi-purpose cutting bit and the depth guide - this worked great.

jmoser
09-06-2005, 12:06 PM
My OEM hitch kit came with the actual replacement rivets; I used my standard pop-rivet tool that I got at Home Depot, etc. This rivet tool just uses a simple 'grab and pull' pincer design; there are interchangeable collets to take the correct rivet stem diameter. As long as you are close to the right diameter collet I don't think 'metric' rivets make any difference. If the collet is a little too tight then you may have problems; just use the next one up or chase it with a drill bit to open it up a few .001"s.

I don't remember the screw issue on the sliding bumper ears - maybe my 2001 did not have these?

You can cut-out that bumper with anything, Dremel works great and you do NOT need to be precise as you can't see the rough opening after installation anyway.

Glad to hear my old DIY post was helpful, should have taken pix.

dtlayman
09-08-2005, 08:28 PM
We fixed the pop rivet gun and we used a larger collet and finished the job.

Thanks again.

Turchman
04-16-2006, 08:05 PM
I know this is an old thread, but I thought I would bring it back to life for anyone else out there that may be looking to do this. It took about 4 hours yesterday, but is definitely not too bad.

Observations:
The rivet on the heat shield was easier to cut with a small cutoff wheel on a dremel.

The cut out does not show up like you think it will, I was worried about making it look really nice and spent a bunch of time filing and sanding. Not necessary.

Big torque wrench, breaker bar, rivet gun, 1/2" metric socket set, and a magnet for when you drop nuts and sockets in the aforementioned black hole; are all necessary tools.

My dealer wanted $500 to install the hitch, I am glad I did it myself. It is definitely worth it.