Rear drive shaft stuck

[Deets54]

Hi, evidently my post yesterday didn't make it to the board. So I am going to try again.
My wife's 2004 xc70 developed a coolant leak. At first I had hoped it was a heater hose. But after replacing them, the leak continued. It appears that it was the turbo coolant hoses. I have everything removed to access the angle gear. I have hit a snag. The drive shaft is stuck in the angle gear. I removed all 6 bolts and got the collar back with the metal ring, but the shaft itself is stuck. I removed the 5 bolts from the angle gear and have moved it every way possible, but the shaft is still hanging on. I moved the center support bracket and that didn't help either.
Any suggestions on how to get the shaft free?

Also where is the angled turbo coolant hose located at? While moving the angle gear I easily found the short straight hose, but didn't locate the other one with the slight bend.
Thanks on advance

[Astro14]

The drive shaft is stuck in the transmission. That's where the splines mate up. You'll have to use a brass hammer or drift on the inside of the tripod joint, and gently, rather gently, tap it while pulling it out. Do not stress the driveshaft joints, or you'll break them loose. Apply force to the shaft only. You did unbolt the driveshaft bearing retainer, right?

There may, or may not, be a curved turbo hose on your model year. On my 2004 V70R, there are only two short, straight, hoses. Total PITA to reach the inner one, by the turbo itself, with the angle gear in place. The outer one, is over by the water pump and easy to reach. Same part number on my V70R. Same with my XC90.

The inner one goes from the coolant pipe to the turbo fitting, right near where the lower radiator hose connects and right by the PCV system connection to the block.

So, tap the driveshaft to remove it. Apply force to the inner tripod housing while tapping with a hammer. It should come right out. Then remove the rear driveshaft, unbolt the angle gear and remove it. Those bolts should be replaced, by the way.

Do your hose. If you only have the angle hose as a new part, and your car has the straight hose, you can cut it to length. Both ends of the straight hose are 10 mm. The inner part of the angle hose is 10mm. If you want the straight hose, it's Volvo PN 31439471

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-return-turbo-cooling-hose-outlet-30713305oe

While the angle gear is out, check for leaks. This is the time to re-seal it. You'll want a kit:

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-angle-gear-resealing-kit-s60-s80-v70-xc70-xc90-anglegearkit

The kit includes new bolts for the angle gear.

I modified mine while it was out, to make oil changes easier. Read this thread: https://www.volvoxc.com/forums/showthread.php?29700-Angle-Gear-sealing-and-modification

[Astro14]

Wait, just read the title - is this the rear driveshaft?

It will be stuck unless you drop the center bearing to get a little more room to move it. It appears that you've done that, but make sure it's hanging down.

Then, you need to knock it loose from the flange. With the six bolts out, a few modest raps with a large ball peen. Failing that, a sharp chisel on the joint. Don't hit too hard as the bearings in the angle gear are taking the shock. It will be rusted in there tight.

[Brett San Diego]

This is the method that worked for someone on another forum (not my response):

"You put a driveshaft bolt in from the front and use a long pry bar against the angle gear to pop it out. It will help to semi loosen the center carrier bearing support bolts to create more freedom. Is not a casual fit, requires some force to unseat."

I'd add to hit the joint with a hammer or air hammer while prying at the same time.

Brett

[Deets54]

Thanks all for the replies. I will attempt to remove the carrier bearing bracket. Before I only removed the lower metal cross piece. The only hose I have found on the turbo is the one directly above the angle gear. It doesn't appear to be where the leak is from. I have the turbo hoses and the sleeve kit for the angle. I also have new copper rings for the turbo. I have new oil for the angle as well.
Thanks again for all the great tips.
Another couple questions. The connector sleeve between the trans and angle didn't come out when I moved the angle. What is the best approach to get it out? The large seal seems to be holding good, no leaks.
When putting it back together with the new sleeve, should the sleeve go in the angle first or in the trans? I should get another large seal before getting back together.
Thanks all

[Deets54]

Thanks all for the tips. I posted an earlier reply, but again it didn't post. Not sure what is going on with that. Going to work on it again tomorrow. Have a couple more questions. The coupling sleeve between the angle and transmission didn't come out when I undid the angle. Any tips on getting it out? Also when putting it together do I put the sleeve in the trans first or in the angle?
Thanks again

[Astro14]

The angle gear collar sleeve is very hard to get out. Cut a deep groove in it, use a big pry bar and lots of muscle.

Then throw it away and install a new one with the Volvo Moly grease.

Take a look at the resources section, there are a couple write ups.

[Deets54]

Thanks, will do that.

[vtl]

Collar sleeve is very easy to remove with a blind bearing puller like that one:

9588

To install it back you need a threaded stud cut in halves and a piece of square tube with two holes or something like that.

[Deets54]

Thanks, haven't had a chance to work on it for a while. Life gets in the way of plans. I was thinking a bearing puller might work. I will try that when I get to that part.
Thanks again

[Deets54]

Update
Not much to report other then a lot of cussing at Volvo engineers. I have been wrenching on cars for over 50 years. Never have I experienced the problems and design issues on this car. Why they thought it was a good idea to put the exhaust directly under the drive shaft is beyond me. The front triangular exhaust bracket is directly in the way. As is the front sway bar. No good angle on trying to rap the driveshaft hub. Then there is the aluminum heat shielding. Dirt and mud gets trapped in it and if you even breath on it, you get a face full. I started working on British cars at 16. MGs, Triumphs.
I have worked on Toyotas, Nissan and GM products for years. Worked on Volvos 240s,740s and turbos. Nothing comes close to this nightmare.
I just spent 4 hrs under the car and still have not got the driveshaft loose. Removed the bolts to the center support bearing and the cross bracket it bolts too. Removed rear drive shaft bolts. Tapped with a hammer, nothing happened other then the front cv joint cap/housing coming loose and two bearings falling out. Now have to totally remove the driveshaft so to put the cv joint back together. All this to remove and replace a couple of turbo coolant hoses. My shop lights went out, have to recharge them. Will take some pictures tomorrow for reference. Will try removing angle gear again and see if I can twist it to a point to free the drive shaft.
Thanks all for the pointers and info. Try try try until success.

[Deets54]

Well, my last post got lost. Yesterday tried working on it again. Not much progress except for a lot of cussing. Removed the center support and the cross bracket that it's bolted too. Removed the rear drive shaft bolts as well. Tried different approaches and still no luck on getting the drive shaft loose from the angle gear. Spent almost 4 hrs. Only thing that was accomplished was the housing on the front cv joint came apart and two bearings fell out. Now it looks like the whole shaft needs to be removed.
The main problem I am facing is the lack of room to access the shaft. With the exhaust being directly under the shaft I can't get a good angle on it.
I am thinking maybe of putting a pipe wrench on the shaft and try twisting it so the front holes don't line up. Then maybe putting a bolt in from the front and pushing it a part.

I really can't understand the need to bury the shaft behind the exhaust. The tunnel could have been made a bit wider and exhaust placed along side. Also the aluminum heat shielding is a major pain. It has trapped years worth of mud and dirt. You can't even breath near it without a face full.

I have been wrenching on cars for over 50 years. Started working on British sport cars when I was 16. Have done all my repairs on autos. Toyotas, GM, and a variety of older Volvos. Never have I experienced such a nightmare.

I have a profession mechanic friend who was helping my daughter with her Subie. He commented that all car manufacturers should require their engineers to spend a couple of years having to repair 20 plus year old vehicles. That would change their perspective.