speakers for hu 613 without amp and sub

[akimm]

I just became a member of this forum and I am very impressed by this community - so many useful advices, ideas, etc.

I am looking for advice what component system speakers upgrade should I buy (to use without amp and sub) ? Sound quality is not good, especially sound clarity at driver seat, it's better sound at passenger seat, OK sound in the rear. ( I thought about driving from rear seat but it's not permitted by police) Sound clarity in my wife's V70GLT '98 is much better.

I consider between:
Infinity 6000cs (or Kappa)
Polk db 6500
JL Audio VR600-CS (or other JL at the same, below 200$ price range) or MB Quart
number of Alpine systems are on the market - Have you use any of those and what is your impression?
Please advise what "drop-in" would be better and which speakers fit without cutting?
Should I get two sets or changing the front ones would be enough?

Thanks a lot

[XC70Geo]

Have you seen this: http://www.v70xc.com/resources/audio_menus/hu613/
Tweaked HU 603 (european) seems fine for me.

[akimm]

I definitely did - before posting my question I spent couple days browsing this forum. I noticed number of posts about significant (amps + subs, etc) upgrade. I am not ready for that - I am looking for speakers upgrade in hope that it will improve sound quality. Is it right? What speakers’ component system will work best with existing HU613 unit?

[Psychwarlord]

I checked out that website and adjusted my bass +2 on all four channels - the difference is tremendous!! I am kind of an audiophile (but not a nut) and am pleased with the result. I think any of the speakers or amps you want to put in would sound very good.

[akimm]

I don't know how to discribe, but it is some noice and to reduce that noice I had to turn down lows and to move balance to the rear. It's a reason why I think about changing front speakers.

[akimm]

What speakers' resistance should be? Mos of aftermarket speakers are 4 Ohm. I went to Circuit city - they said that most of previous Vovlos had 2 Ohms.

[gibbons]

The speakers in my '04 with a 613 measured 3.8 ohms, close enough to 4. Here is a post I made a while ago about the 613 subject.

>>>>>>
To make my Volvo sub-woofer more pronounced and distinct, I just added capacitor crossovers to the door speakers. What a difference! Sure, it doesn't rank with one of those custom $10,000 "pimp my ride" projects, but I think it is substantially better than about any other stereo I have heard.

So, the Volvo sub is a nice, capable piece. However, it takes its signal off the same wire set as the rear door speakers. So, if you turn up the bass control to get the sub to do its job, the door speakers will try to do the deep bass too. They are full range, and couldn't go that low if they wanted to. They just waste power trying, and the result is muddy sounding distorted bass mixing with the sub's great bass.

The sub's frequency response is listed at 20-100hz. It has a cross over to make it roll down at 100hz, you can see the gigantic inductor through cooling slots. The trick is to add some non-polar 330 microfared capacitors to the door speakers, soldered into the positive speaker wire. This rolls them down starting at 120hz, 6db/octave. Perfect combo.

I'm no audiophile, and I haven't had it checked with spectrum analyzer, but here are my simple observations.

Since the door speakers can no longer try to play the deep base, the Sub can be turned way up. It fills the car with a full, rich bass sound that you can really hear and feel. It's not boomy at all, just incredibly solid and deep.

The bass punch is dramatically increased, and it is clean and crisp. It feels like the drum sticks and piano keys are hitting me. No more muddy, gooey stuff. Great rock sound.

An unexpected benefit is that the mid-range is lots smoother and much more defined. I had previously turned my mid-range down with the secret equalizer, because I thought it was harsh. Like ear frying harsh. I don't know the physics of why it is so much better with the crossovers, but again, I think it's cuz the speakers aren't trying to hit the under-100hz notes, so they are freed up to be more accurate. Also, without the power robbing under 100hz stuff, it's effectively like having a lot more power available from the amp.

Since I can turn up the mid-range, the treble is supported better. It really sparkles. And again, it doesn't fry my ears. I hate raspy sounding systems, kinda like this stereo was.

I rented a Jag with a factory Alpine last week. My old I30 had a pretty fine Bose. My set up slaughters them. I never listened to the Volvo 8-series stereo, maybe it would be the one to beat mine. But without a sub, that would be tough. I am more than happy with my 613 now.

If you are interested in how all this comes together, buy the sub on-line for about $400. It will take you 3-4 hours to do a sanitary job of installing it. Buy 4 300microfared non-polar capacitors at an electronics store for about $3 each. Remove the plugs that hold the door panels on by pushing the center pin in about 1/16". Lift the door panels outwards to access the speaker wires. Out of the wire pair, clip the wire with the white stripe and an solder in the capacitor in-line. Wrap the ends with electrical tape, and reassemble the door. Equalize to taste. Freak at the difference. That's all there is to it.

As I was chopping into the wiring harness on the car, I wondered why Volvo didn't supply the capacitor assmebled with male/female connectors to just plug into the stock harness. <<<<<<<<<<<

The Volvo speakers are really, really good, you just have to help them out a bit. To buy anything comparable, you are going to spend $400 for a set, you might as well spend the money on the sub and get some bass too.

[arejohn]

Factory front speakers are typically better than those in the rear. Might the issue be in the 613. I have a 2003 that will go in for service shortly that has audio noise I have isolated to the right front.

[akimm]

Thank you for comments. When I spoke with Crutchfield they said that it's depth limitation in front doors, but it's a lot of room (depth) in rear doors; but they sound not very convincing - on their web site it's no information on compatibility for recent Volvos.
Is front speakers same size and same type (6 1/2') as in the rear?

[akimm]

Thank you. I definitely remember your posting. I hear some sound distortions and particularly from front left; therefore I thought that changing speakers would help. I like the idea of adding sub but I have five years old boy and my trunk looks more like a toy store. So, it's no space there for father’s toy. Also I can imagine that if to ad sub that all that toys will make horrible sound. Is it correct? I never had a sub in my car before


The speakers in my '04 with a 613 measured 3.8 ohms, close enough to 4. Here is a post I made a while ago about the 613 subject.

>>>>>>
To make my Volvo sub-woofer more pronounced and distinct, I just added capacitor crossovers to the door speakers. What a difference! Sure, it doesn't rank with one of those custom $10,000 "pimp my ride" projects, but I think it is substantially better than about any other stereo I have heard.

So, the Volvo sub is a nice, capable piece. However, it takes its signal off the same wire set as the rear door speakers. So, if you turn up the bass control to get the sub to do its job, the door speakers will try to do the deep bass too. They are full range, and couldn't go that low if they wanted to. They just waste power trying, and the result is muddy sounding distorted bass mixing with the sub's great bass.

The sub's frequency response is listed at 20-100hz. It has a cross over to make it roll down at 100hz, you can see the gigantic inductor through cooling slots. The trick is to add some non-polar 330 microfared capacitors to the door speakers, soldered into the positive speaker wire. This rolls them down starting at 120hz, 6db/octave. Perfect combo.

I'm no audiophile, and I haven't had it checked with spectrum analyzer, but here are my simple observations.

Since the door speakers can no longer try to play the deep base, the Sub can be turned way up. It fills the car with a full, rich bass sound that you can really hear and feel. It's not boomy at all, just incredibly solid and deep.

The bass punch is dramatically increased, and it is clean and crisp. It feels like the drum sticks and piano keys are hitting me. No more muddy, gooey stuff. Great rock sound.

An unexpected benefit is that the mid-range is lots smoother and much more defined. I had previously turned my mid-range down with the secret equalizer, because I thought it was harsh. Like ear frying harsh. I don't know the physics of why it is so much better with the crossovers, but again, I think it's cuz the speakers aren't trying to hit the under-100hz notes, so they are freed up to be more accurate. Also, without the power robbing under 100hz stuff, it's effectively like having a lot more power available from the amp.

Since I can turn up the mid-range, the treble is supported better. It really sparkles. And again, it doesn't fry my ears. I hate raspy sounding systems, kinda like this stereo was.

I rented a Jag with a factory Alpine last week. My old I30 had a pretty fine Bose. My set up slaughters them. I never listened to the Volvo 8-series stereo, maybe it would be the one to beat mine. But without a sub, that would be tough. I am more than happy with my 613 now.

If you are interested in how all this comes together, buy the sub on-line for about $400. It will take you 3-4 hours to do a sanitary job of installing it. Buy 4 300microfared non-polar capacitors at an electronics store for about $3 each. Remove the plugs that hold the door panels on by pushing the center pin in about 1/16". Lift the door panels outwards to access the speaker wires. Out of the wire pair, clip the wire with the white stripe and an solder in the capacitor in-line. Wrap the ends with electrical tape, and reassemble the door. Equalize to taste. Freak at the difference. That's all there is to it.

As I was chopping into the wiring harness on the car, I wondered why Volvo didn't supply the capacitor assmebled with male/female connectors to just plug into the stock harness. <<<<<<<<<<<

The Volvo speakers are really, really good, you just have to help them out a bit. To buy anything comparable, you are going to spend $400 for a set, you might as well spend the money on the sub and get some bass too.

[gibbons]

Low, low base in the 20-100hz range is quite non-directional, so having the sub way in the back really doesn't matter. With the set up, sub is installed, then a carpet over it, then the lift hatch closes like normal. Kids don't and stuff on top don't matter. In fact, on top of my hatch, I have the cargo area mat, and then the plastic liner thingy. what's that, 4 pretty substantial layers on top of the sub? And I can still hear it fine. With base that low, half the fun is feeling it, and you will feel it no matter how much stuff you pack on top of the hatch.

[akimm]

Thanks Psychwarlord
I tried to use this menu but it didn't work - probably I did somethink wrong. Should I do that with ignition on or off? When ignition is on and radio is playing and I am pressing Volume knob and its turn stereo "off". What exectly should I do to get into adjustment mode?
Should be my stereo be "on"?
What band : cd, cass, am or fm it should be playing?
For how long should I press knobs?
Should I adjust volume on the radio or on the steering weel?
Thank you for your comments






I checked out that website and adjusted my bass +2 on all four channels - the difference is tremendous!! I am kind of an audiophile (but not a nut) and am pleased with the result. I think any of the speakers or amps you want to put in would sound very good.

[XC70Geo]

1. With ignition on turn off the radio.
2. Press and hold SOURCE button.
3. Press Volume (turn on radio) while hold SOURCE button.
4. Hold SOURCE button for some seconds, till menu appears.

[akimm]

Thanks
I tried number of times and once it worked. It skightly inmproved sound; still a lot of room for improvement. After adjustment do I need to do anythink to save settings or not?

Thanks again

[Morvran]

No, once it's set you're good to go. There's no "save" button or anything.

[GO_V70XCJAVA]

Hello all,

Great post, I have just purchased my XC70 2001 and love the ride!! :D

I do however hear either a busted speaker in the back or loose fittings!! I will have that checked out by the dealer soon.

Where can I get a copy of the car's electrical diagrams? sound system and others?
Plus do you have to buy a volvo sub? And does the 613 have enough power to drive the sub or do you have to add a amplifier?

Thanks!

[akimm]

Just spent another hours talking to professional installers, etc. ; everybody's opinion: not enough power in stock radio, need an amp. for most of high end speakers. Their recommendation: to add amp, etc, they quoted me:
amp 200$ + speakers 150-200$ + wires 80$ +200 labor
I think to go without amp with Infinity 6000cs in the front (low depth and RMS 2-70) and Infiinity 63.5I for the rear RMS 2-70.
Volvo sub has built in amp; I will look for a good deal on it.

You comments welcomed and appreciated

[gibbons]

I got my sub on-line for $400.

Be careful messing with the electronics. A shop I talked to, who is huge and reportedly one of the biggest installers in the nation, wouldn't even talk to me about an amp. They said if you try to tie into the system it will mess up the car's main CPU. They didn't want to be responsible. To give some credibility to this, the dealer told me that adding the bigger Volvo amp requires a VADIS download.

But then again, there's that other thread showing those highly trick subwoofer and electroncs additions, and they weren't Volvo. Maybe they had just installed them and hadn't tried to start the car yet :)

[Tom H]

I also noticed while searching the topic that someone else on this forum added the PA-200 amp (4x50watt) to thier 613 system. They said it took them 30 minuets to add the amp but didn't mention anything about needing the VADIS upgrade. Maybe the VADIS only needs to be changed when adding the PA-300 which is 4x75w, or when adding the premium speakers. :confused:

[akimm]

Today I visited another dealership to find out about an amp: they said that amp also requares another wiring (+$$); premium speakers, and, as usually Volvo assesories price tag goes $$$$$$$$$$$!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Visited Circuit City: they said need an amp, they are afraid to put speakers in Volvo, saing that its 2ohm system, software , not compatible, bla, bla, bla..
Another very premium installers (SammSound in Livingston, NJ) said that need an Amp. Nobody mentioned so far thataftermarket amp can create a problem. My concern is adding aftermarket amp and speakers how it may effect factory car warranty

Do you know if HU-613 has build-in amp or it has external amp, as most of older (before 2000 y) Volvos?

[GO_V70XCJAVA]

I would be very surprised if the Vadis system would need to be updated for something like a amplifier? :confused: Or for any other speaker upgrade.
How would the computer know that sudenly the speakers were changed? This is a radio and though it's written Volvo on the front it's probably a well know manufacturer behind.... And I would be amazed to know how the volvo computer would detect any change to the radio....

I also never heard about any waranties being void for some sound system upgrade. Probably the most common car upgrade that anybody performs.

[gibbons]

The speakers are 3.8 ohms. I know cuz I measured them to get the resistance needed to calculate the value if capacitor to roll the bass off the bottom.

The Vadis update warning came from a guy at Borton Volvo. I buy some parts from him, from 1000 miles away. As such, I doubt he was making up a story to drum up fake work for his shop. I didn't install the amp because once I wasn't wasting all that power trying to play the bass notes that the speakers can't produce anyway (with the capacitor roll off), the stock amp was ample.

[akimm]

Gibbons,

I did not understand your point about <<<because once I wasn't wasting all that power trying to play the bass notes that the speakers can't produce anyway (with the capacitor roll off), the stock amp was ample >>>>
Please explain it further.
Do you mean to adjust (in hidden menu) highs down, but anyway would it help to amp performance at mid and low ranges?

HU-613 stock output is 25 x4 . Is it peak, not nominal (RMS)? What is the nominal (RMS) output?

[gibbons]

akimm, I don't remember the equations, but as I recall, it takes 10 times the power to play sound in the low bass range as it does in the mid to upper end of the sound frequency spectrum. If you take the grill off of your home speaker and crank it up, you will see the woofer moving. It takes a bunch of power to move the mass of the speaker cone at low frequencies sufficient to hear it. You won't see any movement form the midrange and tweeter, even though you hear them. They don't take as much power. That's why the rediculously gigantic car stereo amps are all single channel, they are made for driving single subwoofers.

In the vinyl record days, records would usually be warped to some degree. As they played, the up/down motion of cartridge (needle) would produce a very low frequency output. The amp would try to play it, and the speakers' woofers would try to play it. The wooders would flop back and forth wildly and it took enormous amounts of power, and you couldn't even hear it (not that you would want to) because the frequency was too low. Better amps had "subsonic filters" on them to "roll off" this power robbing signal. The sound in the audible range, then, had more more power.

The Volvo stereo delivers the full frequency spectrum to the door speakers. But the door speakers can't accurately produce those low bass notes, even though they will try. Their futile attempt drains the stock amp. What I did was put capacitors in-line with the positive speaker leads. The capacitor becomes a "cross over", which filters out the low bass notes from the door speakers. And just like the subsonic filter concept, it frees up power for the frequency range where the door speakers do well and makes them sound great.

Of course, doing this, you have to add bass back in with a subwoofer.

[akimm]

http://sc2.vcc.m.volvocars.se/bilder/pp/s60/options/audio/audio.pdf

some data on Volvo stereo

[Tom H]

Gibbons,

I did not understand your point about <<<because once I wasn't wasting all that power trying to play the bass notes that the speakers can't produce anyway (with the capacitor roll off), the stock amp was ample >>>>
Please explain it further.
Do you mean to adjust (in hidden menu) highs down, but anyway would it help to amp performance at mid and low ranges?

HU-613 stock output is 25 x4 . Is it peak, not nominal (RMS)? What is the nominal (RMS) output?

I doubt that you are wasting power in the sub harmonic range because the door speaker is incapable of reproducing anything substantial below 100hz anyway, thus no load on the amplifier in that range. What I really suspect is happening with the filters (capacitors) is that you are rolling off the door speakers at or near thier resonant frequency. The resonant frequency is the point where the speaker actually presents it's rated impedance (2ohms, 4ohmc, etc.) to the amplifier. The net effect of this roll off is to reduce the boominess or muddiness and thus gives a much tighter and more pronounced low end, without ringing. Good power amplifiers with a high damping factor can help to reduce this ringing even more.

Too accuratly reproduce sub frequencies does, as gibbons pointed out, require a lot of power. That is why Volvo packages the sub with it's own 150w mono amplifier. Generally speaking frequencies at 75hz or below are nearly inaudible but they are felt.

I still favor the notion of adding the PA-200 or ideally the PA-300 amp and premium speakers because even though the RMS output of the stock 613 is 4x25w, the 25w spec is at 10% THD. At it's cleanest point of 1% THD the RMS output is only 18Wx4. Even the PA-300 @ 4x75w probably only produces 50 watts at 1% total harmonic distortion. This is why high power amplifiers don't always equate to higher volume, but they definately equate to a cleaner and more transparant sound at nominal volume levels.

[akimm]

Gibbons,

Thank you for the explanations. I, unfortunately, not very familiar with this stuff. I (ashamed) forget everything from my electrical engineering course in university.
Did you figured all that yourself (about additional <<capacitors in-line with the positive speaker leads>>) or Volvo sub comes with so detailed instructions? However, I guess you added capacitors only for rear speakers? Then how it might influence the sound quality of front speakers?

Regards,
Michael



akimm, I don't remember the equations, but as I recall, it takes 10 times the power to play sound in the low bass range as it does in the mid to upper end of the sound frequency spectrum. If you take the grill off of your home speaker and crank it up, you will see the woofer moving. It takes a bunch of power to move the mass of the speaker cone at low frequencies sufficient to hear it. You won't see any movement form the midrange and tweeter, even though you hear them. They don't take as much power. That's why the rediculously gigantic car stereo amps are all single channel, they are made for driving single subwoofers.

In the vinyl record days, records would usually be warped to some degree. As they played, the up/down motion of cartridge (needle) would produce a very low frequency output. The amp would try to play it, and the speakers' woofers would try to play it. The wooders would flop back and forth wildly and it took enormous amounts of power, and you couldn't even hear it (not that you would want to) because the frequency was too low. Better amps had "subsonic filters" on them to "roll off" this power robbing signal. The sound in the audible range, then, had more more power.

The Volvo stereo delivers the full frequency spectrum to the door speakers. But the door speakers can't accurately produce those low bass notes, even though they will try. Their futile attempt drains the stock amp. What I did was put capacitors in-line with the positive speaker leads. The capacitor becomes a "cross over", which filters out the low bass notes from the door speakers. And just like the subsonic filter concept, it frees up power for the frequency range where the door speakers do well and makes them sound great.

Of course, doing this, you have to add bass back in with a subwoofer.

[gibbons]

I put the capacitors on the front and rear speakers. Volvo didn't say anything about it, it was just one of those things I remembered from when I was more into stereos. I am sure that Volvo would frown on the whole idea.

[akimm]

Please advise. I just installed Alpine X series 6.1/2 components (excellent bargain - 150$ clearance at 6th Ave store) in the front door (at circuit city shop at Livingston, NJ - person's name Dan did good job for 60$) - sounds much better than original. Dealer said to me that original speakers are 4 ohms, when I removed it the label said 6 ohms. Alpine speakers are 4 ohms; Cc person said that this difference it's OK, but I am still a litlle bit cautious.


Now I considering what to put in rear doors - ether same Alpine components or Infinity Kappa 3-way (about 120$ on Amazon); think about adding PA-300 - considering output and DIY installation its decent value for money compare with quality aftermarket amps.
Any advice / your experience is greately appreciated

[MLPVT]

I have an '05 XC-70 with the HU-650 system (HU-613 maybe?) Does anyone know if the HU-650 has the same hidden menu ?

[littlewaywelt]

I have an '05 XC-70 with the HU-650 system (HU-613 maybe?) Does anyone know if the HU-650 has the same hidden menu ?
How many presets are the 650? Can you go straight through 20 or is it 6 per FM1, FM2, FM3?
If you get an answer for the hidden menus please post it here. I'm picking up a 05 with 650 in two weeks and found it made a major difference in our 613 stereo. Have you used both the 613 & the 650?

[MLPVT]

I followed the instructions to the "T" and unfortunately there is no hidden menu on the RU-650. :(.

I did try different variations on the hold down time and it made no difference whatsoever. What there is however, is a "Mid EQ Setting" as one of the basic options for the radio.

When you press the source button, you cycle through TP, NEWS, RADIO SETTINGS and ADVANCED AUDIO. By selecting "ADVANCED AUDIO" you get access to the "Mid EQ Setting" and the "ASC Setting" (automatic speed control). The Mid EQ Setting will allow you to adjust the mid range from -6 to +6.

While there is a tremendous difference between 0 and -6, there isn't a substantial improvement in the sound between 0 and +6. (in my humble opinion).

I'm really disappointed. I traded in my 2002 Ford Escape XLT on this car (which I absolutely LOVE) and the Escapes sound was far superior to the RU-650.

As I write this, I'm waiting for my salesperson to call me back about upgrading to the RU-850 without worrying about the additional 5 speakers you would get with a factory order. I really don't want to think about the service department cutting into a brand new car just to install the additional 5 speakers that come with the 850.

Once he calls me back, I will edit this post and let you know what the dealership is going to charge me to do this.

Hope this helps.

Take care.

[littlewaywelt]

I followed the instructions to the "T" and unfortunately there is no hidden menu on the RU-650. :(.

I did try different variations on the hold down time and it made no difference whatsoever. What there is however, is a "Mid EQ Setting" as one of the basic options for the radio.

When you press the source button, you cycle through TP, NEWS, RADIO SETTINGS and ADVANCED AUDIO. By selecting "ADVANCED AUDIO" you get access to the "Mid EQ Setting" and the "ASC Setting" (automatic speed control). The Mid EQ Setting will allow you to adjust the mid range from -6 to +6.

While there is a tremendous difference between 0 and -6, there isn't a substantial improvement in the sound between 0 and +6. (in my humble opinion).

I'm really disappointed. I traded in my 2002 Ford Escape XLT on this car (which I absolutely LOVE) and the Escapes sound was far superior to the RU-650.

As I write this, I'm waiting for my salesperson to call me back about upgrading to the RU-850 without worrying about the additional 5 speakers you would get with a factory order. I really don't want to think about the service department cutting into a brand new car just to install the additional 5 speakers that come with the 850.

Once he calls me back, I will edit this post and let you know what the dealership is going to charge me to do this.

Hope this helps.

Take care.


that's a real bummer. I know the eq made a huge difference in the 603. When you get a price subtract 10% for a VCNA discount which if you don't have yet, you should investigate. The membership usually pays for itself in one to two parts orders. Certainly would pay for itself with a new volvo head unit. What's the deal with the presets?

[MLPVT]

On the radio I have now (RU-650) I believe it has 3 presets, FM1-FM3. Other than the automatic speed control feature, it's not a terribly sophisticated system. I don't know if you're familiar with the automatic speed control but it adjusts the volume upwards as your speed increases to compensate for highway noise.. and I thought it was my imagination when the radio seem to be getting louder my first time on the highway. Incidentally, I'm a first-time Volvo owner and not at all familiar with the RU-613. I picked it up November 30th as a birthday present myself.

[littlewaywelt]

On the radio I have now (RU-650) I believe it has 3 presets, FM1-FM3. Other than the automatic speed control feature, it's not a terribly sophisticated system. I don't know if you're familiar with the automatic speed control but it adjusts the volume upwards as your speed increases to compensate for highway noise.. and I thought it was my imagination when the radio seem to be getting louder my first time on the highway. Incidentally, I'm a first-time Volvo owner and not at all familiar with the RU-613. I picked it up November 30th as a birthday present myself.
The 613 had 20 presets that you could just scroll through, which I love and is great for the DC area.
It looks like the 650 has 6 presets for FM1 then you have to push a button for FM2 to get the next 6 and so on for FM3 to get the last 6. IMO from just reading the manual for the 650, they took a perfect system with great functionality in the 613 and downgraded it in the 650. The ASC system was on the 615. I never thought it was very noticible.

[MLPVT]

I drove an '05 V50 last week before I settled on the xc70 and the system in that car was unbelievable, i'm guessing it was the 850 with 11 or 12 speakers but can't be certain. All I know is the surround sound in that car was like nothing I have ever heard before and don't know if I will able to come close to it with a dealer upgrade. The salesman priced out the amp, speaker upgrades and new radio and the price was going to be around $2000. PRICEY. I should know tomorrow morning what the best way to go is when he calls me back (service dept had to try to put together a package). The biggest thing, after sound, is having a system that "looks" like it was built with the car.