View Full Version : Fuel Pressure Sensor Location
Could someone tell me where the Fuel Pressure Sensor is located in 2001 V70XC?
Thanks
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hoonk
09-20-2019, 05:39 AM
Could someone tell me where the Fuel Pressure Sensor is located in 2001 V70XC?
There is not one on a 2001. I think 2003 was the first year that part was used along with a fuel pump control module that would vary the speed of the fuel pump.
There is not one on a 2001.
That's my engine. Instead, the end has a valve with a blue cap.
I got Fuel Pressure Sensor because all the symptom I have refers to the FPS.
Since I don't have the latter, what would be the next thing to check?
Few months back, when I step harder on the gas to overtake a car, I tend to, sometimes, have a small hesitation.
The issue started getting more noticeable. Two days ago, it just stalled. With the ignition, the engine will turn but
won't start. Battery is ruled out. All I read on the web points to lark of fuel in the engine.
Interestingly, the parts catalog with the VIN says it should have the FPS. I have two 2001 and the other one does
not have it either.
Thanks for pointing that out. It is a manufacturer's part error.
Thanks again.
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hoonk
09-20-2019, 12:52 PM
Few months back, when I step harder on the gas to overtake a car, I tend to, sometimes, have a small hesitation.
The issue started getting more noticeable. Two days ago, it just stalled. With the ignition, the engine will turn but
won't start. Battery is ruled out. All I read on the web points to lark of fuel in the engine.
Any codes? VIDA is your friend and can point you in the right direction sometimes.
A simple cheap fix - Has anyone touched the intake air hoses - like the hose at the throttle plate? If improperly reinstalled most of those pipes can/do come off under high boost, creating a small to large air leak that can prevent the car from running/starting.
Or - do you have fuel pressure?
I trust the engine is spinning over - but are the cams turning and aligned properly? Timing belts jump teeth if they get loose for various reasons, or break from old age.
Any codes? VIDA is your friend and can point you in the right direction sometimes.
No "Check Engine' on the dash.
I did not try the VIDA. I can't now since the engine would not run.
A simple cheap fix - Has anyone touched the intake air hoses - like the hose at the throttle plate? If improperly reinstalled most of those pipes can/do come off under high boost, creating a small to large air leak that can prevent the car from running/starting.
No work has been done in or around the engine to affect the hoses. Yes I know movements, like daily driving, can affect hoses.
Did not check for any lose hose yet.
Or - do you have fuel pressure?
I don't know if I have fuel pressure, I have not checked that. Since the car cannot run, VIDA is out of the way to check that.
I could make a make-shilft pressure gauge to check on the pressure at the fuel rail.
I trust the engine is spinning over - but are the cams turning and aligned properly? Timing belts jump teeth if they get loose for various reasons, or break from old age.
This last section, I have not thought of any of them.
Thank you!
hoonk
09-20-2019, 01:32 PM
I did not try the VIDA. I can't now since the engine would not run.
Engine does not have to run for Vida to talk to your control units. Just plug in and turn the key on. The battery has to have enough voltage \current in it so if the battery is weak a charger on the car (or jumper cables to another car) may be needed.
Vida can't check fuel pressure unless you have a sensor :(
But you can press the schraeder (sp) valve and see how much fuel comes out and compare that to your running car (after spinning the engine over for a few seconds to hopefully build up fuel pressure.)
For future reference fuel pressures sensors usually do not make the car not start, usually just run bad or turn the check engine light on.
To second what you mentioned about the 2001 XCs, I went to the Volvo dealer in town, and they don't know either. They depend on the official service manual that showed the FPS. I just finished chatting with someone from VolcoUSA. She confirmed that that year does not have a Fuel Pressure Sensor.
True, I forgot the engine don't have to be running to use the VIDA.
Heading out to try out the VIDA if there would be any code.
Thanks.
There is not one on a 2001. I think 2003 was the first year that part was used along with a fuel pump control module that would vary the speed of the fuel pump.
For all you 2001 XC70/V70XC owners, the Fuel Pressure Sensor does NOT exist.
I visited the Volvo dealer in town who later called their main Volvo place in Lower 48,
and was confirmed. I also called the tech department of the VolvoUS and I was also
informed that my year does not have it and it is a mistake by them with the parts/repair
catalogs. The FPS started with some 2002 models.
Good to know.
But you can press the schraeder (sp) valve and see how much fuel comes out and compare that to your running car (after spinning the engine over for a few seconds to hopefully build up fuel pressure.)
Shouldn't I use a fuel pressure gauge to check what pressure it is, since the pressure should be of a certain range?
hoonk
09-21-2019, 04:30 AM
Shouldn't I use a fuel pressure gauge to check what pressure it is, since the pressure should be of a certain range?
That would be best, if you have a gauge, you might be able to have vida run the pump since the engine does not run.
. . . have vida run the pump . . .
Please clarify.
I connected a gauge to the rail at the valve and turned the engine (since the car would not start).
Here's my reading. What would that mean, though it's above the 40psi requirement.
I am trying to troubleshoot the car not starting anymore.
Months back, it hesitates when applying more acceleration, then, it starts stalling, then it gave up.
https://flic.kr/p/2hjt9eY
hoonk
09-23-2019, 10:50 AM
Please clarify.9100
Hook up vida, turn key on, scan car or if scanned previously pick car from list, go to "Diagnostics" menu, then "Vehicle communication", Click on the ECM icon in the left corner, choose "activations" from the center menu, click the "+" on "ecm" in the left lower window, click "fuel pump relay" at the bottom of the list and that will open in the right lower window with a start and stop button.
There is no car attached in that screen shot so the modules are all grey and the stop and start button won't appear.
hoonk
09-23-2019, 11:03 AM
I am trying to troubleshoot the car not starting anymore.
I trust the battery is spinning the engine over. -
So I would start with the basics.
Codes (since you have VIDA)
Compression
Spark
Fuel (you have fuel pressure, but is it gas? - cars have been towed in because of water/diesel contamination, and are the injectors opening?)
Cam timing
Note from previous photo there is a parameters tab next to activations. Items available on that tab can help with a no start problem. Injection time, mass air flow, coolant temp, ignition angle are all items that could help your diagnosis.
Plugged in the VIDA and got this (Video).
I had to edit the video to increase the audio volume level.
By the way, the Turbo Valve has a thumping sound but not loud enough to hear.
Hope I did good enough here.
Thanks again everyone for helping me here.
VIDEO
https://youtu.be/MnWURGSzmvQ
billr99
09-26-2019, 09:42 AM
Plugged in the VIDA and got this (Video).
I had to edit the video to increase the audio volume level.
By the way, the Turbo Valve has a thumping sound but not loud enough to hear.
Hope I did good enough here.
Thanks again everyone for helping me here.
VIDEO
https://youtu.be/MnWURGSzmvQ
Oka:
I don't see anywhere in this thread what VIDA shows for errors. Do you have any and could you post those?
Cheers,
Bill
Oka:
I don't see anywhere in this thread what VIDA shows for errors. Do you have any and could you post those?
Cheers,
Bill
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Oka:
I don't see anywhere in this thread what VIDA shows for errors. Do you have any and could you post those?
Cheers,
Bill
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hoonk
09-27-2019, 11:51 AM
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What is the history on the throttle module? 2001 had the Magnetti Marelli (sp) throttle that had a 100% failure rate - There is a test in VIDA to have the ECM move the throttle plate - but you should look (take the hard to get to hose loose) - and see if you can push the throttle open with your finger, have seen many stiff or siezed 99-01 throttle modules. And a seized throttle will keep a car from running.
Xemodex has some diagnostic help here -
https://xemodex.com/us/knowledgebase/etm-diagnostic-flow-chart/
What is the history on the throttle module? ]
I don't know, bought the car a little over two years ago.
Xemodex has some diagnostic help here -
https://xemodex.com/us/knowledgebase/etm-diagnostic-flow-chart/
This site has a really nice chart. Though I got confused which really applies to me.
Would their ETM cheaper than from a Volvo parts dealer, if I were to need to replace mine.?
According to their video, their module gets programed for the customer before shipping.
. . . see if you can push the throttle open with your finger[
I think I finally found a video on getting to the ETM. Just curious, just to do this 'finger' test, would I
have to remove the fan cover to get to it? I will if I have to. Just wondering if there is any other
short-cut to check the module
Almost all the repairs I found on my symptoms seem to tell me my ETM would be the culprit.
hoonk
10-06-2019, 08:52 AM
Would their ETM cheaper than from a Volvo parts dealer,
would I have to remove the fan cover to get to it?
A Xemodex throttle module can be preprogrammed and would be plug and play. A module from the Volvo dealer (new ones are available aftermarket also) has to be programmed using a VIDA subscription after installation. The Xemodex unit also has non-contact potentiometers (the most common part in the throttle that fails)
The total would probably be less from Xemodex.
The throttle module comes out after removal of the plastic pipe feeding air to it. The fan shroud stays. You can't see what you are doing and the throttle is mounted upside down - but there are just 4 bolts holding the module to the manifold - better have a good section of 1/4 inch tools ;)
Might want to disconnect the battery, the positive connection on the starter is easy to brush up against after you get the air pipe out of the way.
The total would probably be less from Xemodex.
I checked prices and these are what I found:
$599 (+ $100 core Could not check for shipping cost) - Xemodex
$468 (+ $100 core + $26 Shipping) - FCPEuro
$399 (+ $100 core + Free shipping) - IPD (Xemodex)
Attached, I believe it's the throttle body with a white label; which means it is the original unit.
The car is at 160K miles.
Doing this work, I would wish I have joints in my joints or much smaller hands.
. . . see if you can push the throttle open with your finger
I got in there. I can push the throttle. Since I don't know how it really should feel, the flap could be pushed in on both sides of the center pin. It is springy though, which let the flap 'spring' back to position.
I checked prices and these are what I found:
$599 (+ $100 core Could not check for shipping cost) - Xemodex
$468 (+ $100 core + $26 Shipping) - FCPEuro
$399 (+ $100 core + Free shipping) - IPD (Xemodex)
Directly from Xemodex will give you a pre-programmed unit, though costlier, but more practical.
goldxc70
10-08-2019, 10:02 PM
There is not one on a 2001. I think 2003 was the first year that part was used along with a fuel pump control module that would vary the speed of the fuel pump.
There isn't one on my MY04.
Got the Xemodex throttle unit. My issue now is, I cannot push the air intake hose up into it. Is there a trick to doing this, it's kinda getting frustrating.
Thanks.
Xfingers
10-11-2019, 04:58 AM
I remember it being a little tricky getting the air intake to mate up with TB. I'm not sure how exactly I did it. Would it help to keep the attachment bolts of the TB threaded but very loose so you had some play in the system while you're trying to install the hose?
Would it help to keep the attachment bolts of the TB threaded but very loose so you had some play in the system while you're trying to install the hose?
I thought of something similar. I thought if I could have pushed in the hose and tightened it before installing the TB, but that would be impossible to push back the whole unit into the already cramped space (the radiator fan unit is out of the way). If I loosen the bolts, it might be even more difficult to push the hose in, since it would be nice (I think) if one item (the TB) is steady. Just a thought.
Using a mirror, the hose seem to be stuck on the edge of the TB opening and am far from having the strength of a Body-Building-Bench-Presser [happy]
Thank you for your suggestion.
Astro14
10-11-2019, 11:59 AM
Bolt the Throttle body up by torquing to spec, a few NM. Leave the intercooler end of the pipe loose but in place.
The pipe goes over the throttle body and “pops” in place when the internal, concentric, ridge slides over the throttle body groove.
A warm pipe works better than cold. Check with a mirror to be certain that you haven’t folded over an edge of the pipe. Make certain that the clamp is sufficiently loose to allow the pipe to fit over the TB.
This doesn’t take strength, it takes dexterity.
A bit of patience.
And a mirror.
hoonk
10-11-2019, 01:42 PM
And try to put the clamp back exactly where is was to avoid any possibility of an air leak
And try to put the clamp back exactly where is was to avoid any possibility of an air leak
I sure plan on doing so; though this clamp has a steel band on the inside which looks smooth at the end of the band (for the reason you just brought up).
Good point though. Thank you!
Joe Mc
10-14-2019, 11:22 AM
Man I'm sitting on the edge of my seat here wondering if the problem was fixed or not? Hope you got it going Oka. Unless I'm mistaken, in your video where you showed fuel pressure, did the engine not start and run "then" just die or???
Man I'm sitting on the edge of my seat here wondering if the problem was fixed or not? Hope you got it going Oka. Unless I'm mistaken, in your video where you showed fuel pressure, did the engine not start and run "then" just die or???
Please give me till tomorrow, by noon (Alaska Time) to give a better update on the result.
I will be doing the last test tomorrow morning when it's cold again like today at 21F.
Thanks for your patience!
ISSUES
1. Remote starter would not start the car when the outside temperature is as low as 40F.
2. Removed this remote starter and installed a more sophisticated remote starter.
This new device, still will not start at about same temperature.
3. Car hesitates when accelerated to overtake another vehicle.
4. During normal driving, sometimes, the car hesitates intermittently and continues to drive normally.
5. Last month, stopped at the red light, took off and the car lost power. I could not go more than 18MPH.
6. After about two miles, it stalled. When it is started, it immediately stops.
7. Fuel pressure gauge at the fuel rail and before the fuel filter read "normal" pressure.
Purchased Fuel Pressure Sensor. Found out the 2001 XC does not have such, though it is in the
manufacturer's parts catalog - confirmed it's non-existence for that year manufacture.
8. Checked the throttle body and found out it has a white label and the car has 158,960 miles.
WORK DONE
I must say kudos to you all, for all your effort to help me through troubleshooting what the issue(s) might be.
I decided to order the Throttle device from XeMODeX, though more expensive, it is sent to you,
pre-programed with your VIN number; just plug-an-play. One interesting check was the fuse for the throttle
to the electronic module. The XeMODex instruction was to check and replace it since it must have burnt; and it was.
For the hose, it was so hard to get it over the throttle body. I thought using small grease or oil would have been my last solution.
I first tried a hair dryer. I had my thumb on the edge of the hose checking it's durability with the heat. The edge did not really
show it was soft enough, but immediately, I pushed it up there with some and it 'flopped' on it. Tightening the clamp was a big pain
since it cannot be help well to screw on the clamp bolt. I did my best to hold the clam with my left finger with I at least tighten it
enough to hold on while clamp it on tighter.
TESTING
Installed a new battery Platinum H6-AGM with 760CCA and 950 CA.
When all was back in place, turned the ignition and the car started right away.
Drove it outside, washed it, let it sit for a while, tried the remote starter, it started.
SATURDAY
I let it sit the whole afternoon, the next morning.
SUNDAY
The temperature was 27F, the remote starter started the car.
Turned it off, tried it again, it started. Did not touch it till this morning.
TUESDAY
The temperature in early morning was 20F. The remote starter started the car right away.
Removed the new battery and put back the previous battery just to eliminate the previous
issues as from the battery.
WEDNESDAY
This morning the temp was about 25F, and the remote starter started right away.
OBSERVATIONS
When I drove it, I noticed the car drove much more smoother and it's acceleration was much more
responsive and smoother. I love it!
I also noticed the engine at idle and neutral gear is about 700 RPM. That is nor normal, right?
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SIDE NOTE
I bought a 3/8" Milwaukee Ratchet (cordless) to do this work. I am happy I got this tool for future car work.
Made things more bearable for me. The ratchet came out handy removing and installing the
throttle body, this ratchet worked out so fine.
CONCLUSION
I am happy with all the work I did with all the great help from you all. Seriously, I really appreciate all your help
till next project comes up. Now, am ready for the looming winter in the Last Frontier.
Astro14
10-18-2019, 05:46 AM
So, conclusion: it’s running well now?
Great news!
So, conclusion: it’s running well now?
Great news!
Really well. I never knew this XC has this "let's go attitude". You step on it it just takes off and not kinda sluggish.
Just changed how I drive it. Yesterday we had our first snow and icy roads which I learned from not to drive the way I was used to with this car. Luckily I was the only one that early morning when I had the little skid. The studded tires are going up this evening.
My only next issue is the 750 rpm iddle rev. Just called XeMODex and was told that speed is normal for my XC.
Ooopsy! Guess I spoke too soon.
This morning neither the remote starter nor the key would start the car.
Here are some faults and an audio of the starting sound.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Gqvzor0yYnJSQboxBjpS6lDuGjaSfOJi
913191329133
Just curious, both the OEM security system and the Viper Remote Starter security systems all are functional at the moment.
I have been enjoying the nice and very responsive ride since replacing the throttle device, need to get back to it as soon as possible.
Thanks in advance.
Hello folks, am waiting for any ideas on where to go from here?
Thanks.
hoonk
10-21-2019, 09:58 AM
This morning neither the remote starter nor the key would start the car.
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There's an outside temp code stored - what temp is being reported to your CEM/ECM? You can click on the code and VIDA will give you diagnostic help.
A bad/erratic temp sensor (outside or engine) can make the engine not start. For instance if the sensor is reporting 150 degrees when it is 35 outside, the fuel system will send a very lean mixture, and the engine will spin over but not catch.
There's an outside temp code stored - what temp is being reported to your CEM/EMC? You can click on the code and VIDA will give you diagnostic help.
A bad/erratic temp sensor (outside or engine) can make the engine not start. For instance if the sensor is reporting 150 degrees when it is 35 outside, the fuel system will send a very lean mixture, and the engine will spin over but not catch.
This issue did not cross my mind. Since I got this car, the temperature thingy on the dash has never reported the temperature and I kinda overlooked it since temperature checking does not really matter (living in Anchorage). I will check on the code when I get home this evening. Thanks for the information.
There's an outside temp code stored - what temp is being reported to your CEM/EMC? You can click on the code and VIDA will give you diagnostic help.
A bad/erratic temp sensor (outside or engine) can make the engine not start. For instance if the sensor is reporting 150 degrees when it is 35 outside, the fuel system will send a very lean mixture, and the engine will spin over but not catch.
By the way, is the engine's temperature sensor (for the coolant) the same unit as the sensor that checks the outside temperature that shows on the dash?
hoonk
10-21-2019, 02:44 PM
By the way, is the engine's temperature sensor (for the coolant) the same unit as the sensor that checks the outside temperature that shows on the dash?
There are 2 outside air temp sensors, they are the little bumps on the bottom of the outside mirrors. Left and right air temp sensors have different functions, can't remember which does what but the outside temp reading on the dash being correct does not mean the signal to the ECU/ECM/CCM is correct.
Coolant temp sensor is in the thermostat housing, and can cause erratic hard starting problems also.
There are 2 outside air temp sensors, they are the little bumps on the bottom of the outside mirrors. Left and right air temp sensors have different functions, can't remember which does what but the outside temp reading on the dash being correct does not mean the signal to the ECU/ECM/CCM is correct.
Coolant temp sensor is in the thermostat housing, and can cause erratic hard starting problems also.
Just reading about them. The outside air temperature sensor is one thing I have been wanting to fix but did not bother. Every time I need to know what the temp is, I tell myself why bother, it's cold outside. My other XC70 has the temp showing on the dash. For this defective one, I got to get it working. Just ordered both and the coolant temperature sensor. AutoZone in town has them but decided to get it from Volvo parts dealer. Should be in hopefully in a week.
Thanks again!
While waiting to get the Ambient and Coolant Temperature sensors to arrive, I just tried to start the car and on the dash, it shows:
IMMOBILIZER
SEE MANUAL
Xfingers
10-24-2019, 08:08 AM
Any codes? Can you trace it in VIDA?
I did an "Update Scan".
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Hello folks, I cannot find (Googled) how to remove the Outside Temperature Sensor. I found it removed but not how. VIDA shows it's location but not how to remove it.
Thanks.
hoonk
10-26-2019, 10:14 AM
I cannot find how to remove the Outside Temperature Sensor.
Instructions are in VIDA, go to Repair, click "removal, replacement and installation", choose "Electrical system", under "instrumentation" click on "sensors for check and warning systems", pick your car from the list, follow links to instructions. Outside temp sensor is near the bottom of the list.
OR
They are in the bottom of the mirrors, take door panel off, mirror off - replace sensor, put everything back together :)
Instructions are in VIDA, go to Repair, click "removal, replacement and installation", choose "Electrical system", under "instrumentation" click on "sensors for check and warning systems", pick your car from the list, follow links to instructions. Outside temp sensor is near the bottom of the list.
Sorry I got side-tracked.
I have been there some way back but forgot how to get there and thought it is the same as:
Search-Keyword-Repair. Got this path now for future searches. Thank you.
They are in the bottom of the mirrors, take door panel off, mirror off - replace sensor, put everything back together :)
Simply said, this is just it.
When done replacing both outside sensors and the coolant sensor, I plugged back the battery and immediately checked the temperature on the dash. it was kinda refreshing to see it show up. The car started at the first second third try. Think it got "weak" from all the previous starting from way back when the car won't start. I tried it two more times and it started all times with the remote starter fob. Though the temperature in garage was fifty-eight degrees. I packed it outside and later tried it and it started. I just have to wait for the temp to go down to find out.
One thing though is, the "IMMOBILIZER SEE MANUAL" error did not show up again, guess for now. Hopefully, the IMMOBILIZER does not come up when I started driving the car since it, I believe, is related to the key/starting function. Oh well, I'll find out when I start driving the car again.
Thank you so much for all your help in straightening me up. Well appreciated!
Instructions are in VIDA, go to Repair, click "removal, replacement and installation", choose "Electrical system", under "instrumentation" click on "sensors for check and warning systems", pick your car from the list, follow links to instructions. Outside temp sensor is near the bottom of the list.
Sorry I got side-tracked.
I have been there some way back but forgot how to get there and thought it is the same as:
Search-Keyword-Repair. Got this path now for future searches. Thank you.
They are in the bottom of the mirrors, take door panel off, mirror off - replace sensor, put everything back together :)
Simply said, this is just it.
When done replacing both outside sensors and the coolant sensor, I plugged back the battery and immediately checked the temperature on the dash. it was kinda refreshing to see it show up. The car started at the first second third try. Think it got "weak" from all the previous starting from way back when the car won't start. I tried it two more times and it started all times with the remote starter fob. Though the temperature in garage was fifty-eight degrees. I packed it outside and later tried it and it started. I just have to wait for the temp to go down to find out.
One thing though is, the "IMMOBILIZER SEE MANUAL" error did not show up again, guess for now. Hopefully, the IMMOBILIZER does not come up when I started driving the car since it, I believe, is related to the key/starting function. Oh well, I'll find out when I start driving the car again.
Thank you so much for all your help in straightening me up. Well appreciated!
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