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Ftknox02
11-26-2018, 08:45 AM
Hello all, as the title says my wife's car will not crank. She was at the drive-thru and turned the car off for a quick second when she went to turn it back on the car would not crank or turn over at all. the car is in an immobilizer mode as All Electronics will power on when the key is in on position but will not turn over. I read some other threads that said this could be a low voltage issue just waiting for the tow truck now to get the car back to my garage so I can do some testing. The only abnormal message in the message center is the SRS airbag service but that has been on for a while. It has been really cold lately but today it's only 50 degrees outside which is not freezing, also like I mentioned she had already driven the car about 20 minutes right before this happened. Any other thoughts?

hoonk
11-26-2018, 12:16 PM
the car would not crank or turn over at all. the car is in an immobilizer mode as All Electronics will power on when the key is in on position but will not turn over.

Sure - batteries can go bad at any time, or alternators fail to charge them. Usually, If the horn works the battery is not dead (horn takes a lot of current)

Another possibility is that the steering column lock is not allowing the key to turn to the start position. (requiring a replacement steering column lock special ordered to your key)

ericjp
11-27-2018, 05:29 AM
Assuming the battery isn't bad, wiggle the wire for the starter solenoid. Sometimes they get corroded and don't make a good connection.

Ftknox02
11-27-2018, 06:25 AM
Assuming the battery isn't bad, wiggle the wire for the starter solenoid. Sometimes they get corroded and don't make a good connection.

So bit of an update. Got the car towed home yesterday and put it on a battery charger and about 30mins later it fired up. I replace the battery anyway just to be on the safe side started the car with the new battery a few times last night and this morning experience the same problem. Put my voltage meter on the battery and had 12.2 volts but with no crank so at this point I am assuming it's the starter.

Xfingers
11-27-2018, 06:27 AM
Assuming the battery isn't bad, wiggle the wire for the starter solenoid. Sometimes they get corroded and don't make a good connection.

This was the reason I was getting a NO CRANK with my 2002. Had to disconnect the wire, clean the connections, tighten the clip a little with pliers. No more problems. If you can wiggle the wire and it turns over, you've probly found your problem.

Note: The problem was intermittent. I could wiggle it once and it would start the next 3 or 4 times. But if it was colder out or I went over some bumps...

ericjp
11-27-2018, 07:13 AM
So bit of an update. Got the car towed home yesterday and put it on a battery charger and about 30mins later it fired up. I replace the battery anyway just to be on the safe side started the car with the new battery a few times last night and this morning experience the same problem. Put my voltage meter on the battery and had 12.2 volts but with no crank so at this point I am assuming it's the starter.


12.2 is too low. What was the voltage with it running? Should be around 14 volts.

Pennhaven
11-27-2018, 10:06 AM
12.2 is too low. What was the voltage with it running? Should be around 14 volts.

While 12.2V is not fully charged it's not necessarily "too low" either. Depends on the state of charge when the battery was installed (new batteries in my experience are seldom fully charged), the temperature, and how long the engine was run to recharge from the several restarts he mentioned.

I'd agree though that he should check the voltage with the engine running to insure the alternator/charging system is working properly. If it is, and the car is driven sufficiently, then the battery voltage should get up into the high 12._s.

What's not good is to let a battery sit at less than 12.1 volts, which promotes sulfation, lowering the battery's capacity.

Ftknox02
11-27-2018, 04:36 PM
That was it. Cleaned the connection going to the solenoid and problem solved.

Thom Moore
11-28-2018, 04:28 AM
That was it. Cleaned the connection going to the solenoid and problem solved.

I'm having the exact same problem at the moment. In my case, turning over the ignition would make the starter would "stick" and all electrics go dead. Fully charged battery reading 13v at the terminals, but 1.6-2V at the positive terminal under the hood. Disconnecting the negative battery terminal would reset the electrics.

I've looked at the starter solenoid and see the positive terminal, but can't see / feel this connector. Where should I be looking? It all looks pretty clean under there.

Xfingers
11-28-2018, 06:01 AM
Fully charged battery reading 13v at the terminals, but 1.6-2V at the positive terminal under the hood.

Does this mean that you've got a loose connection or a short in the positive cable that goes from the battery to the engine compartment? If you're getting 13v at one end but only 2v at the other?

When my starter solenoid wire wasn't making good enough contact to engage the starter motor, I was still getting 12v at the jump point under the hood.

Thom Moore
11-28-2018, 06:20 AM
Does this mean that you've got a loose connection or a short in the positive cable that goes from the battery to the engine compartment? If you're getting 13v at one end but only 2v at the other?

When my starter solenoid wire wasn't making good enough contact to engage the starter motor, I was still getting 12v at the jump point under the hood.


Suspect this might be the case, but I don't have any experience or know-how to diagnose that if it is - all the connectors seem clean and well clamped, and it's intermittent. When the car is at rest, I read the same voltage at the jump point as I do at the battery, so it's intermittent and seems to be linked / only occur when it doesn't start

Xfingers
11-29-2018, 05:21 AM
You might want to look into downloading VIDA on to a computer. It's the shop manual for volvos. Hopefully it'll have a diagram showing that cable which goes from the batt to the engine compartment to help you troubleshoot. You can also get a DICE setup for a laptop which lets you interface with car thru the OBDII port. That's more complicated. But with VIDA on your computer you can see exploded views of all the car's systems, look up part #s, get repair procedures, etc.

I use a Virtual Machine setup: https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?481385-VIDA-Dice-2014D-VM-Image-Download-Link

I could look up the info in VIDA for you when I get some time but I haven't figured out how to copy and paste into a forum post.

Eric B
12-04-2018, 11:41 AM
This is a good clue. I am having trouble with an intermittent no start with crank, or no crank but lights on dash. My first thought was that it is the key antenna since it seemed immobilizer related. It is hard to find facts on the immobilizer though so I am going to do as suggested here to check the solenoid before buying parts.