Manual Transmission after automatic issues.

[Last_Legs]

I bought my 2006 XC70 about 18 months ago, it had 170,000miles. Now she has 185,000 miles. Last week I was parking and it surged forward and the check engine light came on. I was parked, went for my hike anyway. Got back and the engine turned over. Warning Message: my transmission needed maintenance. Drove it to a transmission mechanic.

They told me I need to have the transmission rebuilt or replaced. Can't afford that. Drove it home in manual. And it seemed to drive pretty well.

How long can I drive it in manual when the auto trans is shot? And ideas? Estimated miles I can squeeze out?

[AKAMick]

Read the codes using VIDA, then a Gibbons flush, a transmission shop makes the most money replacing and rebuilding, "trans is shot" covers even a minor fault, driving it in manual will not extend its life,

[Last_Legs]

Can we for just a second, humor me, pretend I'm not a mechanic or Volvo nerd and I DON'T OWN A VIDA? What are the top three reasons that the transmission goes out? Why would it still seem to be smooth and not be making funny sounds, yet have kicked a check engine light and service transmission warning?

[AKAMick]

Lack of maintenance, not checking the ATF level and keeping it at the correct level is the first reason for problems

[Xfingers]

Check the ATF level with the engine running after you've driven the vehicle for about 30 min. (The ATF should be 80C, this is where VIDA or an IR thermometer would be useful.) If the level's off and you correct it, maybe problem solved.

Next, flush the ATF using Gibbons method as suggested. Neglecting to change worn-out fluid can lead to major shifting issues and ruin the tranny. Refreshing the fluid has corrected some people's trans issues. This car requires a special ATF meeting the JWS-3309 spec.

If you're getting a CEL but the trans is shifting okay, you could be at the early stages of transmission failure. Your trans may be repairable but you're probly gonna have to do the work yourself. A trans shop will want to replace the whole trans for $$$.

You really haven't given us a good description of how the trans is acting up other than it "surged" when you were parking (shift flare?). You've been driving in Manual/Geartronic but how does it shift in Automatic? What about when you move the shifter from P to R, D? Do you get harsh/delayed engagements or loud clunks? How has the car been shifting since you've had it? Has it recently gotten worse? How comfortable are you working on your vehicle?

[Astro14]

A couple of thoughts:

1. You bought a 12 year old car with 170,000 miles on it. Any idea what the maintenance history is?

2. Few people change transmission fluid, because they don't keep cars forever, like folks on this forum.

3. 170,000 miles is a long life for a transmission without service.

4. 170,000 miles is far too long for any fluid to work properly.

5. Your description - "surge" is too vague to draw any conclusion.

6. If you take your car to a transmission shop, they will recommend a transmission. This shouldn't surprise you.

I don't know how handy/technical you are...

So, my recommendation: do a drain and fill. It's incredibly easy.

Big bolt (24mm, I think) on the bottom of the transmission. Drain the fluid with the car level. Use a new crush ring (washer) on the bolt to prevent leaks. Clean the gunk off the bolt, as it's got a magnet on it to catch wear particles. A black "paste" is OK. Chunks/bits are not. Add 3.75 quarts. You can buy 4 quarts of Toyota T-IV at your Toyota dealer. You can buy Valvoline import multi vehicle at an auto parts store. Both meet the JWS-3309 spec. You must have a fluid that meets that spec.

You will have changed half the fluid, improving the viscosity of what's in there. You will have set the level properly.

If the car responds positively (no more "surge"). Then drain and fill twice more.

IF there is a check engine light on, you will have to have that reset.

Good luck!

[Astro14]

Top three reasons:

1. fluid shears to the point of not being able to actuate components.
2. clutch plates wear to the point of not holding in gear.
3. neglect.

3. causes 1. which leads to 2.

Transmissions don't make funny sounds, they start shifting poorly. It's important to understand that "seem to be smooth" and "surged forward" are opposites...from your first post, it's not smooth all the time. You're seeing the beginning of malfunctions. Either the fluid is shot (if you're lucky) or the transmission is worn out (if you're not).

Only way to tell which is to get new fluid in there and see if it gets better.

[AKAMick]

Volvos are expensive to buy and maintain, when they get older and worn and things fail because the expensive maintenance is being neglected the repair costs remain just as expensive, same rate whether the car is 1 year old or 20, it really helps if you can perform some repairs yourself.

[Brett San Diego]

The very knowledgeable folks here have covered most of it. I'll split hairs a bit more. There are two main components to the auto transmission, the hydraulic control unit or valve body and the mechanical part with all the gear sets, clutches, and bands. Your transmission could be shifting poorly because of problems with either the valve body or mechanical part or both. A better description of your exact symptoms may help narrow it down. There are levels of repair that you can undertake in stages if you wish. First, fluid change and level correction. If problems persist that can be rationalized by possible valve body issues, you can then try valve body repair. You could first try removing, cleaning, and reinstalling the linear solenoids. They are well-known to get junked up by old fluid and get sticky. There is a kit sold by Trans-Go to do this. Or, you could just replace the whole valve body. The aluminum valve bores are well-known to wear allowing too much leak-down under pressure, which can get to a point that proper fluid pressure can't be maintained. If valve body replacement doesn't solve the issues, then rebuild of the mechanical part is probably necessary. It could be a crapshoot with doing just the valve body because a valve body issue and a clutch wear issue could have the same symptoms. But, with some symptoms, like a hard shift into drive from park (sometimes called a hard "garage shift"), a valve body issue is the likely culprit, and it becomes a better bet to do just the valve body.

A detailed description of your shifting problems and, of course, knowledge of the fault code causing the check engine light would help the armchair mechanics tremendously. If you want useful help, provide this information.

Brett

[Last_Legs]

I want to thank everyone for their replies. To be more specific if possible when I was slowing into a parking space by "surge" I mean that although I was slowing down with my foot on the brake, the car surged or lurched forward I'm not sure how else to put it. Then the check engine light came on and the warning of something like "transmission needs maintenance."

I was told after they got around to it five days later, 1) "The fluid was good." 2) I need to rebuild or replace the transmission: $2500.00. He was nice enough to show me that shifting in Manual/Geartronic. I wasn't sure driving it to the shop and I wasn't doing it correctly. Once he explained that it was like a paddle shifter with no manual clutch I got it.

Driving home from AAMCO in Manual(Geartronic) it was behaving well, shifting smoothly. Looking at the dash it seems to down shift on it's own, I started letting it down shift on it's own rather than down shift myself. It was smooth no issues except the check engine light was still on.

Brett: I'm wondering if it it the solenoid an issue with automatic shifting. It runs smoothly and shifts smoothly with no hard shifts in manual as long as I don't down shift early.

[Last_Legs]

By surge I mean my foot was on the brake as I slowed into a parking spot. Just before I stopped completely the car seemed to lunge forward enough to be noticeable, maybe an inch or less.

They said the fluid was fine and it was full. The desk guy showed me that shifting was very much the same as a paddle shifter in that there was no manual clutch.

So driving home it felt smooth in manual. Only a slight pulling when I down shifted too early, same as any manual. it was shifting without any noticeable problems. I haven't tried to back it up. Putting it in Park was no problem.

Brett - I'm wondering if it was the solenoid! And I wonder if they actually looked at anything! If it is the solenoid, that's controlling the autotrans. Right? And so in manual if I understand this correctly, I can drive until I can afford a new solenoid.

[AutosDirectFlorida]

There are multiple solenoids in the valve body - I've been through this myself, just slightly different symptoms.

Aside from all of the intricate details described above, the first course of action should be the fluid flush.
I've read too many posts about this over the past year or more and its a VERY common cause and cure.

[Brett San Diego]

By surge I mean my foot was on the brake as I slowed into a parking spot. Just before I stopped completely the car seemed to lunge forward enough to be noticeable, maybe an inch or less.

They said the fluid was fine and it was full. The desk guy showed me that shifting was very much the same as a paddle shifter in that there was no manual clutch.

So driving home it felt smooth in manual. Only a slight pulling when I down shifted too early, same as any manual. it was shifting without any noticeable problems. I haven't tried to back it up. Putting it in Park was no problem.

Brett - I'm wondering if it was the solenoid! And I wonder if they actually looked at anything! If it is the solenoid, that's controlling the autotrans. Right? And so in manual if I understand this correctly, I can drive until I can afford a new solenoid.
You haven't made it clear whether there are any shifting issues. You said you drove the car to the mechanic after the check engine light came on. Did it exhibit any shifting issues?

The most informative piece of information you can give right now is the fault code. Presumably the shop mechanic read the fault code. I would expect it to be noted on your invoice. If not, they're not cool.

If you don't have any shifting issues in automatic mode, clear the fault code and drive it. Regardless, I'd change your fluid if you've never done it.

Brett

[Xfingers]

Last_Legs, is the trans operating so poorly that you're hesitant to leave the car in Automatic, drive around for 15-30 min., and report back to us on the shifting problems you're having? If all you've experienced is a "surge" or "lunge forward" when slowing down to park, why drive in Manual? "Surging" can be caused by other things than a faulty transmission!

Without more info, we're all just taking shots in the dark. The standard advice for anyone having trans issues is to first check the level, then change the fluid with JWS-3309 spec (Mobil ATF 3309, for example), especially if you don't know the last time it's been done. To save money, search for "Gibbons Method" and order the ATF and flush kit (IPD has one).

[pbierre]

Assuming you've flushed and replace the tranny fluid, used the correct fluid, and filled to the proper "hot" level,

The difference between Geartronic manual vs. automatic shifting draws attention to the shaft-speed sensors and TEM module. When using manual mode,
the shift lever (+) or (-) tells the TEM to upshift or downshift. When in "D" or "W" mode, the Input Shaft Speed Sensor (ISSS) and Output Shaft Speed Sensor(OSSS) have to be working correctly, since these govern the decision of when to upshift and downshift. (I'm not sure how the accelerator kickdown
forces a downshift, but it's via an input to the TEM).

The mechanical gears and bands don't know "who" is saying to downshift...that's hidden away on the TEM's input side.

So, if the car drives smoothly using manual mode, chances are good that you're not damaging the mechanisms.

If the shaft speed sensors are failing, that's a tranny rebuild, a replacement tranny, or (gulp!) a new ride. 4th option...keep your manual XC70.