Start issue

[oblivionboyj]

A few days ago I noticed that the starting was weak. But it was still starting. Then yesterday I could start it off jumped, and it ran fine. But after being turned off it would not restart.
Today I pulled the battery out, charged it out of the car (it was fine with a full charge). I checked all the cables for condition and connection, all fine. I reinstalled the battery and, again, no start. Took several minutes with the charger hooked up on engine start mode to start. It's running fine again. I'm running the alternator check on the battery charger now.

The symptoms are exactly like a dying/dead battery; slow cranking followed by fast clicking after there isn't enough power to continue cranking the engine.
Thanks

[oblivionboyj]

Update, the alternator check came back good.

[Astro14]

so...battery, then?

I've had a battery go bad in three years...and I've had them last 10 years...hard to tell how long they will live, but I would get a new battery...

[sjonnie]

How do you know the battery is fine? Specific gravity? Voltage? Load test? If it quacks like a duck, walks like a duck...

[oblivionboyj]

I totally thought the battery was the problem It was load tested good and charged. Still no relief. It is only a year old.

Now it's being a PITA being jumped. Doesn't turn fully over. Fast clicks like there isn't enough power to start the car. That's with a start power box or cables to another car. So the problem is progressing and I have no idea what it is or what to do about it.
This is the second day in a row I'm going to miss work. That means while the problem gets worse I lose more ability to pay somebody else to figure this out. Am I really the only person to see this issue? LoL

[perkinscl]

Put a new battery in! If that solves it, great you're done. If not, you have a new battery with an issue to track down.

[oblivionboyj]

Maybe you have the money to replace perfectly good batteries every year. I don't. The battery has been tested and is fine. And even if I had a bad battery I could jump start the car. The problem is elsewhere.

I'm going through all the connections today. The starter is first.

[Xfingers]

I had a bad starter connection at the small solenoid wire. When I turned the key over, I would get absolutely NO CRANK. No clicking, no slow cranking, just dead silence. Now there are other connections on the starter motor but if you're able to turn the engine over and get it to fire up when you jump the vehicle, I wonder if the starter is the issue. Doesn't hurt to check the connections although the starter is a PITA to get to. Just be careful because you're dealing with live voltage.

Details, details, details...When did you first notice the slow cranking issue? Has the weather been really cold when you had start issues? Did you jump the car from the jump points under the hood or did you attach the jumper cables to the battery in the back of car? Someone made the point that the juice has to travel a long way from the battery to the starter motor and if your connections/wiring isn't in the best shape, in cold weather you could have problems.

If you think your battery is fine but you're getting poor crank, I guess you could take the batt out of the back, move it to the front and hook your jumper cables from the battery to the jump points under the hood and see if you get strong crank. (Don't leave your car running with this setup.) If you do, I guess this would indicate a problem with your battery connections/cables.

[AKAMick]

If your starter has a bad segment it will pull more amps to start, and this condition looks very much like a weak battery, the starter draw can be tested, many Auto parts stores can do this test and it will also determine the state of your battery.

[howardc64]

Came across this video researching your problem. I think same connector noted by Xfiners in post #8.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mhNawwOORiM

Since you have a difference between starting behavior using battery or jumper connection and live in Maine, perhaps increased resistance in wiring due to corrosion is the cause. Recently diagnosed an old Toyota truck starting issue and learned about all the weak spots. Here is a diagram for reference

http://www.samarins.com/glossary/img/starting_system.gif

1. Starter solenoid control wire connection noted by Xfingers and above video.

2. Worn contacts or sticky plunger in starter solenoid. This makes the last "final" contact from the positive cable to the starter motor. Densos have lots of problems with worn contacts and following video show Bosch maybe more prone to sticking plunger. Volvos use Bosch of course.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r4sTBK6J5kI
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jd6iyZ1M9rE

3. Relay circuit resistance. Some people have resorted to replacing this whole circuit rather than finding out which part of it has increased resistance. Here is a replacement kit commonly used.

http://www.painlessperformance.com/Manuals/30201.pdf

4. Corrosion in the ground and positive cable or loose connection. Read about a pin hole in the positive cable insulation. Peeling it back revealed badly corroded copper wiring. Test resistance on the wire (disconnect one end of course)

[oblivionboyj]

A couple things for more information... I'm in Florida right now, not Maine. But it has actually been cold here. The start issue started 5 days ago. First slow cranking on Monday and Tuesday. Then I needed a jump before and after work Wednesday. Then yesterday no start. And here we are.

Great suggestions all! Thanks guys, I'll get back with info :)

[cattlecar]

Check the post behind the fusebox in engine bay. The starter feed comes from battery and junctions there. when you use jumper cables you are still using that stud and to cables secured by the nut.

[oblivionboyj]

I got it fixed, sorry I didn't respond sooner. A soon as it was working I was on the ground running...

Once I got to the starter (I was troubleshooting back to front) I pulled off the ignition lead that comes from the key switch on the solenoid. It was pretty corroded. I cleaned it will, reinstalled it, and the car started right up.

So if you're having a problem that seems like a bad battery, but your battery is good, go to the solenoid on the starter. There are 2 wires; a big one and a small one. Check the connector on the small one for condition and corrosion.