Proper Torque on crankshaft nut

[Two Dog Doug]

I have just done the timing belt and need to torque the crank shaft nut to 130 ft-lbs, what is the best way to torque nut without rotating the guts of the motor ?

[Astro14]

You can build a tool that holds the bolts on the pulley to keep it from rotating, or you can buy this: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-crankshaft-holding-tool-cta-2247-2248-1

[Two Dog Doug]

Thanks, the only thing better than buy a new tool, is the satisfaction of making a tool. My grandfather retired as a tool designer for Lockheed Aircraft Burbank CA. I guess it still runs in the genes.

[Astro14]

The tool that I built was simple: an 18" piece of 1/4" x 3/4" bar stock about 18" long with a shorter piece about 10" long, bolted together in a "Y" with a 1/4" hole in the end of each of the branches that would engage a sacrificial 6mm ( I think) bolt in the crankshaft pulley. Align the pulley on the crank using the roll pin. Snug it down with the 4 bolts, then remove 2 bolts to install the tool, and tighten the crankshaft nut. Then remove the sacrificial/tool bolts, and torque the pulley in place - something like 10NM + 90 degrees (don't hold me to that...but it's something like that...a lot of torque on those pulley bolts!).

[Two Dog Doug]

I just bought this '06 XC70 base model in November, my dad currently has a '03 S60, same engine (not AWD). Have helped my dad with his Volvo's for 20 years or so, but this is my first. he is still a great source of info, but lives in AZ now.

I have the Carfax on the vehicle, it was well maintained by Volvo of Fresno until 112K, then Sebring West until I got it 138K. 140K miles now, I'm doing the timing belt w/roller & tensioner, water pump, spark plugs, serpentine belt, transmission drain & fill, radiator drain & fill, air filter, and the cabin filter. I have read forums that talk about the differential, the bevel, and the Haldex AWD fluids. What are your thoughts on maintenance interval.

Is there any thing I'm forgetting to do, this car is so clean and in excellent condition I'd like to get another 150K out of it (15 years) ?

[Astro14]

I think you’re on the right track.

I like Volvo plugs. I use Mobil 1 75W90 in the differentials. I use Toyota T-IV, or recently, Valvoline Import Multivehicle, in the transmission. The JWS-3309 spec is what you’re looking for for transmission fluid. For engine oil, I am a fan of Mobil 1 0W40.

I change oil every 7,500 and the used oil analysis I’ve had done supports that interval with the Mobil 1. Lots of short trips, and I would shorten the interval to 5,000. Transmission gets a complete fluid change (Gibbons flush, cooler line flush, whatever you want to label it) every 30,000.

Coolant when I change a component, like water pump (which I would have done on the second timing belt. They usually last well beyond 150,000, but since you got it, no worries). I use Volvo coolant, but Zerex G-05 is a good option. Don’t mix OAT coolants with regular, they can form deposits in the system... and I use Volvo coolant so that if I’m not home, and the car goes to the dealer for service, I don’t have to worry about incompatibility.

Differential oil every 30,000. Air filter at 15,000 and cabin filter annually.

Timing belt for your year is 110,000, I think.

Key remaining issue is the PCV system. I would suggest that you just replace everything, even though it’s expensive. Even running on synthetic, I had issues with the PCV system on the XC that led to a cam seal failure and a lot of work to replace cam seals, PCV system, and the oil contaminated timing belt.

I have added a transmission oil cooler to the XC. I recommend that. This thread has more information: http://www.volvoxc.com/forums/showthread.php?27334-02-XC70-Transmission-Flush-From-Bottom

Soon, a complete suspension refresh will be in order: shocks, struts, strut mounts and bushings, lower control arms, tie rod ends, and probably sway bar end links.

You’ve bought a good car. My wife’s XC has 230,000 on it, runs perfectly and looks great. 300,000 is a reasonable goal. Impossible to beat the combination of practicality, versatility, luxury and safety in an AWD Volvo wagon.

Cheers,
Astro

[Waterdog]

You can build a tool that holds the bolts on the pulley to keep it from rotating, or you can buy this: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-crankshaft-holding-tool-cta-2247-2248-1

I don't know whether this method will work on the XC70, but on my Forester, I wrapped the crank pulley with a piece of the old timing belt and then used a chain wrench. It worked great, with no marks on the crank. It did take a bit of fiddling to get it set up so I was confident that it would not slip - if it had slipped and damaged the pulley I would have wished I purchased the special crank holding tool - but it worked.

[dlundblad]

Air filter at 15,000 and cabin filter annually.

Do you prefer a brand of cabin air filters?

[Astro14]

I think I bought Mahle on Amazon. There’s a couple in the garage. With trees in the neighborhood, they get a lot of debris and definitely need changing every year...

[Two Dog Doug]

I have used the old belt and chain wrench method before on other pulleys. But ,maybe over cautious, don't like to do it on vibration dampeners, due to the rubber between hub and pulley surface. I made a tool out of garage door opener push bars in the scrap pile. Fits great and now resides in the specialty tool drawer.