2001: CV Axle Replacement: Advice, Recommendation and Suggestions, Please.

[heydere]

Ahoy !
Re: 2001 V70 XC; Passenger side CV Axle Replacement.
I don't have a service manual nor service information so, I'll be doing this mostly "cold"; although, I found a procedure via the Matthews site that looks neatly simple - other than removing the road wheel, the lower control arm is popped-off the ball joint and "Bob's your uncle". - this allows enough room to move the hub out of the way and pull out/push in the CV axle.

I could really use advice and technical information so I re-assemble correctly. That is: there may be more than merely bolting everything back together. Things such as: replace anything else as long as I'm in there ? Any special technique so I don't break anything ? Re-assembly torque specs ? Where use Loctite ?

Thanks.

Richard Cielec
Greater Chicago Metro

[Astro14]

"Popping the ball joint" takes considerable leverage. Ratchet straps, or a big (4 foot, minimum) crowbar.

While it has the potential to affect your alignment, unbolting the strut will get you the clearance you need, just watch the brake hose - don't let it stretch when you move the spindle. If you carefully mark the strut/spindle relationship (I scored it with a razor knife, so I could get it back within 1/32" of where it was, close enough) you won't screw up your alignment. But if you're off, you'll need a new alignment.

Don't buy a rebuilt/Chinese axle. They're garbage. Get a GKN from Pelican, FCP, or AutohausAZ.

It should come out pretty easy - the angle gear keeps it from rusting in place like the driver side. Also, the driver side has a circlip while this axle is held in place by the bearing retainer.

Use a new axle bolt in the hub. Torque to spec (it's something like 20NM then an additional 90 degrees, but look it up).

Lightly grease the splines going into the hub. You might need to reuse the grease seal between the axle and the hub.

[heydere]

"Popping the ball joint" takes considerable leverage. Ratchet straps, or a big (4 foot, minimum) crowbar.

While it has the potential to affect your alignment, unbolting the strut will get you the clearance you need, just watch the brake hose - don't let it stretch when you move the spindle. If you carefully mark the strut/spindle relationship (I scored it with a razor knife, so I could get it back within 1/32" of where it was, close enough) you won't screw up your alignment. But if you're off, you'll need a new alignment.

Don't buy a rebuilt/Chinese axle. They're garbage. Get a GKN from Pelican, FCP, or AutohausAZ.

It should come out pretty easy - the angle gear keeps it from rusting in place like the driver side. Also, the driver side has a circlip while this axle is held in place by the bearing retainer.

Use a new axle bolt in the hub. Torque to spec (it's something like 20NM then an additional 90 degrees, but look it up).

Lightly grease the splines going into the hub. You might need to reuse the grease seal between the axle and the hub.

Hello.
Working "strut-side" rather than "ball joint side" sounds like a lot less effort.
I don't fully understand when you say "unbolting the strut" nor "mark strut/spindle relationship".
1. unbolting the strut: Do you mean removing merely the two bolts that join the strut and spindle/knuckle ? or, is there more to it ?
2. marking strut/spindle: Not sure what gets marked. I saw an online strut assembly Rem&Rplc in which the person removed and replaced and did not mention any adjustment. I've yet to look at my car but, from the video, the strut to spindle relationship looks certain, I could not discern where there'd be allowance for adjustment.
Thanks.

Richard Cielec
Greater Chicago Metro