Serpentine belt/timing belt replacement 2006 xc70

[Harold Lee]

Hi all,

I'm going to replace my timing belt, water pump, and the other associated parts. I've searched for youtube guides here and elsewhere and don't find one exactly on my vehicle, a 2006 xc70.

Anyone know of a comprehensive guide or tutorial for this task for my specific vehicle?

Thanks --

Harold

[Astro14]

2001-2007 are basically the same.

Some good information here: http://www.volvoxc.com/resources/how-to/

[Harold Lee]

Thank you Astro14, lots of good info there!

[Scopeman]

FCP Euro also has a Youtube video that is typical of the job. I found it easier to remove the crank pulley in order to readily view the crank timing mark and insure correct belt installation. Others don't remove the pulley. Dealers choice.
Also, the cam timing marks are very faint scribe lines, not bold "marks", at least on mine. With the crank pulley removed, I used the more obvious crank mark when aligned with it's witness on the block to find the cam marks and then make white marks over the light cam marks. Also note where they coincide on the plastic cam cover, it is not in perfect alignment with the cutaway.
I did not use a cam locking tool, but I think I would consider it next time, as it relieves the concern of moving a cam off location while fiddling with belt.
There are two different tensioner designs, engine serial number specific, make sure to get the correct parts.

Not a difficult job, but the timing obviously has to be perfect. Take your time, and it's easy!

[v70+xc70]

Have a white marker handy. Before you remove the old belt, align the markings, and mark on the old belt where the timing marks are. Then transfer those marks to the new belt.

Its just an extra layer of safety to help reassure you that everything is lined up correctly.

[Astro14]

I take off the crank pulley. Makes seeing the marks easier and I can't seem to get the belts on/off with the pulley in place due to interference with the cover/shielding under that pulley. Go in through the right front wheel well.

Highlight the marks on the cam pulleys and on the crank pulley. I used a red sharpie.

They only line up exactly when viewed dead on - I use a mirror. Looking from above the fender creates a parallax error. Everyone says they're not exact. They are, but the angle of viewing matters.

Then, and this is critical and should be done EVERY time you do a belt, rotate the engine twice at the crank (which is once at the cams) and CHECK THE MARK ALIGNMENT AGAIN. From the forum results, about half of the people trying this job get the belt on wrong, and fail to do this step, resulting in poor running and engine codes. Once you've rotated the engine, and checked the marks, be certain that the tensioner is set properly, then button it all back up.

You'll need a counter hold tool for the crank pulley. Buy or build one. A very big breaker bar is a must.

[billr99]

I take off the crank pulley. Makes seeing the marks easier and I can't seem to get the belts on/off with the pulley in place due to interference with the cover/shielding under that pulley. Go in through the right front wheel well.

The last two cam belt changes I did, I unbolted the passenger-side motor mount and raised that side of the engine a couple of inches. Then I removed the lower belt guard leaving the crank pulley in place. With the engine raised that wee bit it made getting the cam belt around the crank gear and pulley fairly easy. As a side benefit, it also made getting the serpentine belt on and off a whole lot easier.

The one thing that I think is crucial and is mentioned in the "official" instructions in regard to aligning the timing marks is to rotate the engine clockwise about 90 degrees past the marks for the cams, then rotate the engine anti-clockwise back to the marks. Apparently this is to unload the cam timing actuators and minimize the possibility of cams jumping from the correct position when the cam belt is removed.

And most importantly and as Astro has mentioned, CHECK and DOUBLE-CHECK your work before you button everything up. Nothing worse than having to re-do everything because you jumped a tooth and didn't catch it before you finished up.

Have fun,

Bill

[Scopeman]

As for the large crank pulley bolt, I used an impact. It came right off without moving the crank, reinstalled the same way. Even if it does move the crank, the belt is still on and timed. I reinstalled the bolt so that I could rotate the engine as required.
A counter hold tool is a good idea, but I did not find it necessary.

[Harold Lee]

As for the large crank pulley bolt, I used an impact. It came right off without moving the crank, reinstalled the same way. Even if it does move the crank, the belt is still on and timed. I reinstalled the bolt so that I could rotate the engine as required.
A counter hold tool is a good idea, but I did not find it necessary.

I'm concerned about the counter hold tool -- not sure what it does, actually. I'm assuming it prevents the cam gears from turning, or the crank gear from turning, while you're setting the timing? Hate to buy one at $120 and find out I don't really need it, but as uninformed as I am about this procedure, hate to not have one if I turn out to need it. Any guidance on this? Thanks -- Harold

[Astro14]

Please read through the link I provided. Quite clear that the counter hold allow you to loosen/tighten the crank bolt.

Maybe you can do the job without removing the crank pulley, I can't, but some members have.

Cam pulleys will still move.

Have you done a timing belt on any other car before? This one isn't easy...it's not hard to do, it's just hard to do correctly and get the marks lined up properly...

[goldxc70]

Just did both a timing and serpentine belt change yesterday on my '04. It's a pretty straightforward job but as Astro14 said in #10, it's hard to do correctly. The resources mentioned below are very useful.

A few things: First, I could not find any marks on the crankshaft! I looked and had others look but failed to find anything resembling a clear mark. In the end, I lined up camshafts and marked the block and crankshaft pulley (with white paint).
Second, I did not remove the crankshaft pulley. It is a bit fiddly to get the belt on without doing so but it is doable. Leave plenty of slack below until the belt is around the pulley and then bring it up making sure it sits properly. An assistant will be helpful for this.
Third, there are two types of timing belt tensioner so make sure you have the right one if you're going to replace it. I didn't and had to reuse the old one which fortunately had no obvious signs of wear.

Serpentine belt and tensioner is pretty simple but a serpentine removal tool is very handy if you have one. I used a 3/8 drive T55 on a ratchet with a large wrench over the end of that to give me the leverage and offset needed. There is a lot of tension on this so be careful.

[Harold Lee]

Hi Astro14,

I have not done a timing belt before. Some might call me foolish for attempting, but I want to do as much work on this car as I possibly can. If I mess it up, I'll pay someone to do it right, but I do get a lot of satisfaction out of doing these things. Makes me appreciate the car more, too.

I've looked through all the pertinent PDFs on the link you provided, I'll go through them again. I see the reference to the counterhold and I'm sure it'll make more sense when I've gotten my hands dirty.

[scarince]

I've done this twice now on my car.....everything that everyone said above is true (finding the marks, rotating 2 revs and rechecking, etc).

I would only add that I take the opportunity to swap out the water pump. It's a little more $ and very little extra time, but you're all the way in there, so I would at least think about it.

B.

[goldxc70]

... I see the reference to the counterhold ...

If you decide to take the crank pulley off and you don't have an impact driver, you need the counterhold to hold the crankshaft while turning the 30mm crank pulley bolt. It is used as a counter hold only - hence the name :)

If you have an impact, it will loosen the bolt without the need for the counterhold. Or you can put the belt on without taking off the crank pulley.

[hoonk]

If you have an impact, it will loosen the bolt without the need for the counterhold. Or you can put the belt on without taking off the crank pulley.

Or you can use the starter, put the 30mm socket on with a long pry bar attached braced against some part of the frame or suspension (in the direction the crank is going to turn), and turn the key to break the nut loose. (have done this many times on other engines when there is not clearance for an impact, and a counterhold is not available.) The hard part is getting it tight enough upon reassembly.

Obviously DO NOT take the timing belt off before doing this!

[dlundblad]

It took me two tries on the S60, but it was my first TB job. The car ran fine for 2 or 3 startups with no issues, but after that last startup, that's when it threw a CEL.

Oddly enough, the diesel portion of the Haynes book was more helpful in terms of what marks to look for near the crank. I used a bright paint marker which helped too.

[goldxc70]

... The car ran fine for 2 or 3 startups with no issues, but after that last startup, that's when it threw a CEL. ...

Which code?

[dlundblad]

Which code?

I didn't have a code reader at the time and just assumed it sensed that the timing was off.

[pbierre]

For those not mechanically experienced/confident enough to undertake the TB replacement, the first 2 minutes of the FCPEuro YouTube reveal how easy it is to INSPECT the timing belt. The timing belt cover comes off very easily. Remove the 2 torx30 mounting screws on the top, and then unclip the front and back spring clips, and it lifts off.

What to look for?
- micro cracks forming on the outside of the belt
- has belt drifted sideways, beyond gear width? ( a sign that the tensioner or idler wheel are worn )
- detritus piled up on floor of timing chamber

The belt is virtually unbreakable, but eventually fails in other ways. If the idler or tensioner wheels seize up, they gnaw away the belt until chewed through. Or, the belt can walk sideways right off the gears (like a belt on a belt sander with skew problem). Or, a microcrack can grow severing a tooth.

It's a very simple procedure to inspect the timing belt...it should be a standard inspection item when purchasing a used XC70 over 100,000 mi.

When you remount the TB cover, make sure the plastic tabs slide in under the spark plug cover, and both spring clips engaged. A good cover seal is essential to keep the gear train clean.

[dlundblad]

I have found that correctly reinstalling the cover as described by pbierre is the most difficult part of the job. :)

[Harold Lee]

Just finished this job Sunday and seems to have gone well. Engine running well so far, no funny noises. Funny thing is, I think the timing belt and serpentine belt had been changed recently -- water pump too -- as everything was really new looking, the gasket on the water pump came off in one piece. Dealer I bought it from couldn't tell if it had been changed before, there was no record of it, so I just didn't know. Decided it was better to go ahead and do it and not worry about it later.

Changed out all the tensioners and pulleys and water pump. Managed to get the timing belt on without removing the pulley (actually easier to get it on than it was to get it off), and with some contortions, I could see the timing mark on the crank well enough to line it up properly. Without an impact wrench I was concerned I wouldn't have the leverage I needed with a long cheater bar to get the crank nut removed. I got the counterhold tool but there was limited space to use a long breaker bar on it, which was really the problem. With a long enough breaker bar I guess pretty much anything will come off...

Next up, new front end struts, control arms, spring seats, etc.