low beam bulb replacement

[jimpierce7]

2006 XC-70 Oh what fun it is!!! Very interesting thing today. My dash told me I had a low beam bulb failure. So, I went to my local auto parts store. Used to be Kragen, now its O'Reilly. Got a pair of bulbs, I always prefer replacing them as a matched set.
I looked online to see what craziness there is on YouTube. Gave up on that one as I couldn't find two alike.
Broke out the old owners manual, as I always do, even before I ask questions about side marker lights in the headlight bucket.
Looked simple enough!!
Right?
Of course I couldn't see into the tiny hole of which I have to get my hand in to disconnect the wires................ something doesn't feel right. The wire connector doesn't seem to go straight off the back like it shows in the owner manual.
After setting a bunch of mirrors situated just so......... ok, I used a dental mirror.
This is not what the manual says at all. After much trial and cussing and a small amount of blood, I got the assembly turned 90 degrees and out of the bucket.
YAY me!!
This was when I realized the bulbs I purchased were not a match for the manual but what was actually there. The passenger side was the hardest. Seems I don't bend the right way or in enough places to get a hold of the bulb and twist it back in place.
Being an innovative sort a special tool I have for installing the rollers on some shower doors came to mind. Now it is JP special Volvo tool #1
See photo. Fits the back of the wire connector perfectly!
Driver side was a piece of cake.
At least it got done with out tearing out the engine!!
Working on her is surely a PITA it seems, but I sure love my XC-70

[Xfingers]

I replaced a lowbeam bulb on the pass side of my 2002 not too long ago. It was a bit of a PITA. Twisting out the socket and replacing the bulb was easy enough for me but getting the socket to twist back in and lock in place had me cursing under my breath. I had to go to the driver's side headlight and carefully remove and replace that socket to see how everything lined up. Then I was able to figure how to reinstall the socket/bulb on pass side. Next time I replace a bulb I'll pay closer attention to how that socket aligns in those 3 notches before fully removing.

[pbierre]

I have found that for replacing the H11 bulb (connector plug at right angle) best to buy OSRAM brand bulbs. There's something about the
mechanical details of the mounting collar that makes for a smooth fit. It's hard enough getting these bulbs back in.

Also, like Jim, when the bulb was out, I fashioned a tool for gripping the bulb-plug assy. while stuffing back in, or pulling out next time.
You'll want to remember the orientation of the tool for starting the bulb in. If you get lost with correct orientation, view the bulb from the
exterior headlamp clear cover....line up the 3 tabs correctly.

[pbierre]

If you have to replace a broken headlamp bulb connector (the heat eventually destroys them), I recommend to only buy authentic Volvo harness.
There is very little clearance when mounting the bulb-connector assy. back in. Unless the connector was specifically chosen for compatibility with this car, chances are it will not fit back in. I tried some generic ceramic connectors, but they had fit problems.

I've also had problems with electro-corrosion of the connector tabs that grip the bulb blades, resulting in a flaky connection. Again, this was with aftermarket connector. For reliable headlight, use Volvo harness and Osram bulb.

[billr99]

If you have to replace a broken headlamp bulb connector (the heat eventually destroys them), I recommend to only buy authentic Volvo harness.
There is very little clearance when mounting the bulb-connector assy. back in. Unless the connector was specifically chosen for compatibility with this car, chances are it will not fit back in. I tried some generic ceramic connectors, but they had fit problems.

I've also had problems with electro-corrosion of the connector tabs that grip the bulb blades, resulting in a flaky connection. Again, this was with aftermarket connector. For reliable headlight, use Volvo harness and Osram bulb.

I'm afraid I would have to disagree. I bought headlamp leads off eBay (from China) for my '02 XC, properly spliced them into the existing wiring and had no problems with them until I got rid of the car. I also use dielectric grease on all my electrical connections. That means they were on the car for about 5 years and over that entire time, the car sat outside in sea air. The air here is so corrosive that brake discs rust over overnight so if the headlamp leads were at all susceptible to corrosion, it would have happened here. Plus I managed to buy 2 pair of leads for well less than $10 CDN, I'm thinking maybe less than $5 but all those records went with the car.

Interestingly, both my '05s have not exhibited this problem; at least, not yet. Wonder if Volvo's supplier changed the composition of the connectors once it became clear that they broke down with the heat of the bulbs, especially if they were operating DRLs like we have to in Canada?

Cheers,

Bill

[albertj]

I'm afraid I would have to disagree. I bought headlamp leads off eBay (from China) for my '02 XC, properly spliced them into the existing wiring and had no problems with them until I got rid of the car. I also use dielectric grease on all my electrical connections. That means they were on the car for about 5 years and over that entire time, the car sat outside in sea air. The air here is so corrosive that brake discs rust over overnight so if the headlamp leads were at all susceptible to corrosion, it would have happened here. Plus I managed to buy 2 pair of leads for well less than $10 CDN, I'm thinking maybe less than $5 but all those records went with the car.

Interestingly, both my '05s have not exhibited this problem; at least, not yet. Wonder if Volvo's supplier changed the composition of the connectors once it became clear that they broke down with the heat of the bulbs, especially if they were operating DRLs like we have to in Canada?

Cheers,

Bill

Just mentioning that in the past, on an Audi I owned the turn signal bulb holder detached from the housing. It had tabs on it that made contact inside the housing. It was a pain. Instead of replacing them as the Audi dealer suggested, however, I simply plated them with solder (used the iron to get the brass tabs hot enough to flow solder onto and used a soldering aid stylus to trap heat so the plastic bases would not deform. That was a once-and-done fix. Bill, in your high corrosion environment maybe solder plating for certain connectors would help - would you have the reason/opportunity to try that?

Albertj

[AKAMick]

I like Billr99 bought Ebay aftermarket ceramic bulb connectors as the DRL's burning constantly just cook the Volvo plastic housing and they become brittle and causes them to disintegrate, the ceramic China units have held up well, though I have turned off the DRL feature, just could not afford the bulb expenditure