Rear hub removal - for replacing brake backing plate

[Element-X]

Hey guys,
Does anybody have any tips or pointers on removing the rear wheel hub? I'm changing the backing plate out because the old one's rusted and I'm stuck at removing the hub and flange piece. I've removed the four screws that come from the backside and I can almost slide the drive shaft all the way out. Is this a case where I need to give it a little tappy-tap-tap with a big hammer to separate the hub from the knuckle? Do I have to remove the driveshaft completely or is there enough space between it and the knuckle that I can remove the hub without pulling out the drive shaft?

Thanks

[Xheart]

More here http://www.volvoxc.com/0/resources/how-to/pdf/parking_brake_brake_shoes_replacing.pdf

[Element-X]

More here http://www.volvoxc.com/0/resources/how-to/pdf/parking_brake_brake_shoes_replacing.pdf

This doesn't help me. I've already got the parking brake shoes removed. I'm trying to get the backing plate off, but I can't remove it from the hub assembly because the outer flange to which the brake disc fastens is larger in diameter than the hole in the backing plate. I have to remove the hub and flange assembly from the knuckle before I can get the backing plate off. I've removed the four screws that pass through from the back of the knuckle and thread into the hub/flange assembly, but I can't get the hub/flange part separated from the knuckle.

[Astro14]

Hub puller, or slide hammer. Get some tension on it, hit it with a big hammer, it'll pop out. Rust is the only thing holding it in place once you've got all the bolts removed.

In fact, I think that you can leave the parking brake components alone while you get the hub out. Once it's out, then you can take them off and remove the backing plate.

I have to be honest, though, and say that I've never, ever replaced a backing plate on any car.

Ever.

If it's rusted, use a wire wheel on a drill, clean it up and paint it. If it's bent, use big pliers and straighten it.

[Xfingers]

I had to replace a rear hub last summer to pass inspection. Once I had the screws out, removing the seized hub was a bear. Did some research online and it appears to be a common problem. I didn't have access to a hub puller or slide hammer. I used PBlaster, tapped with small hammer, hit with sledge...no luck. Based on a suggestion in one thread, I had some long threaded bolts and nuts lying around the garage that I put thru the holes in the hub. Each bolt was threaded with 2 nuts and some washers in such a way that when I turned the nuts, the washers put pressure on the underside of the hub and popped it off relatively easily. This is from memory so I probly haven't done the best job of describing it. But if you stick a long bolt thru a hole and thread a nut on each end of the bolt, if you turn the top nut against the underside of the hub, it will put outward pressure on the hub. You need a washer on top of the nut or else the nut will just come up thru the hole. I think I used three 1/4" bolts and as I tightened the nut on the third bolt the hub came lose. 3/8" or 1/2" bolts would be better.

This is what worked for me. Maybe the PBlaster and hitting with hammers loosened things up, I dunno.

EDIT: Now when I say "turn the top nut" and "tighten the nut", I'm not sure if it wasn't more the case of snugging the nut/washer against the underside of the hub and then turning the entire bolt clockwise (tightening) to put pressure against the underside of the hub. Or maybe I just used one nut/washer underneath the hub and the end of the bolt was resting up against some supporting structure of the car when I turned the bolt. I'd have to take the damn thing apart to remember just what I did!

[billr99]

I have to be honest, though, and say that I've never, ever replaced a backing plate on any car.

Ever.

If it's rusted, use a wire wheel on a drill, clean it up and paint it. If it's bent, use big pliers and straighten it.

Funny that this thread should show up now as I am going to replace a rear backing plate on my XC next week. Rust attacked the spot weld holding the shoe retaining spring slot bit to the backing plate allowing one of the shoes to float around a bit. Didn't really effect operation of the e-brake but knowing that the shoe wasn't retained bother me and thus requiring a backing plate replacement. Otherwise the original plate was in OK shape. Probably just one of those things as the car still has its original shoes. By the condition of the e-brake cable and its adjustment when I bought the car at 235K kms, I don't think the original owner ever used the e-brake or if they did, it wasn't very often. Additionally, I just replaced the original rear rotors too and they came right off which surprised me (this is also when I discovered the bad weld). So with all of that, I can only conclude that that particular backing plate had some kind of defective spot weld that finally gave up the ghost. In any case, looks like this job is going to be more a PITA then I was hoping for especially considering what it is actually fixing.

Cheers,

Bill

[Element-X]

Funny that this thread should show up now as I am going to replace a rear backing plate on my XC next week. Rust attacked the spot weld holding the shoe retaining spring slot bit to the backing plate allowing one of the shoes to float around a bit. Didn't really effect operation of the e-brake but knowing that the shoe wasn't retained bother me and thus requiring a backing plate replacement. Otherwise the original plate was in OK shape. Probably just one of those things as the car still has its original shoes. By the condition of the e-brake cable and its adjustment when I bought the car at 235K kms, I don't think the original owner ever used the e-brake or if they did, it wasn't very often. Additionally, I just replaced the original rear rotors too and they came right off which surprised me (this is also when I discovered the bad weld). So with all of that, I can only conclude that that particular backing plate had some kind of defective spot weld that finally gave up the ghost. In any case, looks like this job is going to be more a PITA then I was hoping for especially considering what it is actually fixing.

Cheers,

Bill

Hey Bill,
The shoe anchor breaking away is the exact problem I'm trying to fix. I'm trying to get the car fixed up to pass safety inspection, and one of the problems was that the driver's side parking brake doesn't stop the wheel from turning. I've replaced the rotors and shoes, and while I was doing that I noticed that the upper shoe anchor was broken away from the backing plate. The shoe kind of floats around a little bit. I don't think it's preventing the brake from working, but I'd like to get it fixed anyway. I pulled a used backing plate off of a car at a salvage yard, and it was really easy. I just gave the hub a good whack with a hammer and it came right off. My car is a little more rusty though, I think it's because it saw a few winters in North Bay hahaha.

Astro, thanks for the tip about the slide hammer. I'll have to try that. If that doesn't work then I'll have to fabricobble some kind of screw action clampy-type separator thing like Xfingers said.

EDIT:
I found a decent video on youtube about pulling it off. It looks like all I need is some threaded rod and a nut haha.
There's also some more results on google about it. I guess I just had to look a little harder.

[billr99]

I've replaced the rotors and shoes, and while I was doing that I noticed that the upper shoe anchor was broken away from the backing plate. The shoe kind of floats around a little bit. I don't think it's preventing the brake from working, but I'd like to get it fixed anyway. I pulled a used backing plate off of a car at a salvage yard, and it was really easy. I just gave the hub a good whack with a hammer and it came right off. My car is a little more rusty though, I think it's because it saw a few winters in North Bay hahaha.

Come on, North Bay wasn't that bad (I spent 7 years there working at Nipissing U.) compared to the salt air that we have here 24/7/52. In any case, what you described is exactly the same problem I have. Upper mounting point on the drivers side e-brake. Some kind of design fault or just age and exposure?

Cheers,

Bill

[Element-X]

Hey Bill,
I managed to get the job done yesterday. I got the hub removal started by threading a lug screw into the hub, and tightening it down against a long nut and some washers. I've added a photo to show what I did. Once the hub started being pressed out, I gave it a tug with the slide hammer and it popped right out.
In general, I prefer to use pullers or presses instead of brute force, because I'm not the strongest kid on the block. I've always thought that if you have to mack something with a hammer and it doesn't give the first few times you hit it, then you're doing something the hard way.
I've attached a photo showing the system I used to get the pull-out started. Hopefully this helps you if you haven't done it already.

8258

[Scopeman]

Clever! Good trick!

[billr99]

Jeez, I almost hate to add how I managed to replace my plate this morning. Couldn't budge the axle bolt and wasn't willing to sacrifice an otherwise good rear halfshaft if I had to get ugly to get the bolt out. With the bolt removal out of the picture, so was removing the hub. So basically, I bent the new plate slightly in two of the locations near the holes for the mounting bolts and the thing went right on clearing the hub. In fact I had to do it twice as I had forgotten to thread the e-brake cable thru the plate as I maneuvered over the hub. Anyway, the bending didn't break the paint so with a bit of pushing to put things back the way they were supposed to be and the bolts tighten up, it all went back together no sweat. Changed out both sides on the e-brake shoes and hardware and was done in just a shade under 2 hours counting a coffee break. I hate having to get all backyard mechanic on stuff sometimes but in this case, it was just easier than having to dick around with removing the hub for a piece of sheetmetal.

Cheers,

Bill

[Pennhaven]

Jeez, I almost hate to add how I managed to replace my plate this morning. Couldn't budge the axle bolt and wasn't willing to sacrifice an otherwise good rear halfshaft if I had to get ugly to get the bolt out. With the bolt removal out of the picture, so was removing the hub. So basically, I bent the new plate slightly in two of the locations near the holes for the mounting bolts and the thing went right on clearing the hub. In fact I had to do it twice as I had forgotten to thread the e-brake cable thru the plate as I maneuvered over the hub. Anyway, the bending didn't break the paint so with a bit of pushing to put things back the way they were supposed to be and the bolts tighten up, it all went back together no sweat. Changed out both sides on the e-brake shoes and hardware and was done in just a shade under 2 hours counting a coffee break. I hate having to get all backyard mechanic on stuff sometimes but in this case, it was just easier than having to dick around with removing the hub for a piece of sheetmetal.

Nothing wrong with a creative solution!

As the US Marine Corps like to say, "Adapt, improvise, overcome."