Do I buy this '08 XC 70? What do I need to know First???

[Whoamireally]

Hey people, I own an 97' 850 for the time being and it needs way too much work and $$ for me to keep it running(purchased as cheap transport).
I am beginning g to like Volvo's after working on the 850.
I have a dealer who has set me up w a very nice deal on a '08 XC 70. 167k miles, one owner, a professional who had it serviced regularly.
Aside from the sweet deal from the dealer and the car seems to be in immaculate condition, I am concerned about upkeep on this car and the mileage is not the best according to Volvo stats(15/22)
I'm not rich and parts can be expensive....
I normally drive Subarus which parts tend to be cheaper to maintain(from my experience) and while the mileage is something like 20/25('04 outback wagon).

My questions, what are the common things to look out for on this year and model?
What do I need to make sure has been changed/replaced?
Can the prop shaft be removed to safely improve mileage?

Thank you in advance!

[ckm]

I just bought a 2008 XC70 (110k miles, one owner, all service records, original window sticker in glove box). I had been looking for a T6, but they are just too much and often have much higher mileage. This car is replacing a way slow 7 seater SUV, so it doesn't need to be a sports car (have other cars that fill that role...).

I found some things wrong with it even before I bought it, which really helped me negotiate a way better price. Here are some things I found before hand

Some evidence of leaks around the oil cooler piping & the rear diff
Rear hatch didn't open correctly
Needs new shocks all around
A/C is noisy, could be just the clutch
Drive belt has not yet been done
Brake discs not wearing evenly
Center console wear & Volvo badge on steering wheel peeling

I've now had it for 2 weeks, driven ~400 miles, and that's still about it. There's a slight pull to one side which I suspect is related to the brake disc wear as well as some noise related to the shocks being worn out (I think, although it could be a bushing). And the second remote is missing the emergency key. None of this is terminal and most people wouldn't notice.

A few things I would suggest (not necessarily Volvo specific):

Get a Carfax (https://www.carfax.com/) - read all of it, look for discrepancies/issues
Have it professionally inspected
Crawl underneath it with a flashlight, look at every piece of machinery, including the shocks behind the wheels & all the rubber bits, make note of any leaks, drips, tears or cracks.
Push every button, make sure everything works (esp. the A/C)
Make sure you drive it over bumps & other rough roads with the windows open.
Ask how many keys/remotes it comes with and if all the papers are there (manuals, etc). Check that all the tools & spare are there as well.
Check to see if it has a full service history, either through Carfax or paper receipts - in particular, make sure the recommended service has been done (http://new.volvocars.com/ownersdocs/2008/2008_maintenance/2008_maintenance.html)
Budget $1000-$2000 for immediate maintenance (e.g. next 3 months) and probably another $1000/year after that
Find out the KBB values for wholesale & tradein, it will guide you on the dealers profit margin.
Look at the tire wear pattern (should be even) and make sure they all match.

With a car of that mileage, make sure the major maintenance items have been done, in particular the drive belt, with is ~$1800 at the dealer and is due around 150k miles.

For inspections, I've used Lemon Squad (http://www.lemonsquad.com) for cars that weren't near me. Otherwise, I DIY, but I've been restoring old cars for ~25 years, so I kinda know what to look for. There is a pretty good checklist (PDF) (http://chrisfixed.com/HowtoInspectaUsedCarChecklistChrisFix.pdf) put together by Youtuber ChrisFix.

Also, what kind of dealer it is should also dictate how careful you need to be when buying. Luxury new car dealers that have taken the car as a trade-in have zero incentive to sell you a 'bad' car. They mostly want to recoupe their costs + a little $$$ and get the trade off their lot in < 3 weeks. If they can't, it goes to auction and they loose money. Other new car dealers will have larger used inventories and be less motivated to sell (and possible less scrupulous). In any case, if it's a trade they are reselling, then they got the car directly from the previous owner, so the history is 'known'.

However, if the car is on a used car lot or even a used lot at a new car dealer and it hasn't been taken in trade, that means it was likely bought at a car auction (like Adesa (https://www.adesa.com/home)). If it was bought at an auction, then the history is unknown to the dealer. In that case, you need to be way more careful as some cars have bad history (e.g. Hurricane Sandy flooding) - I would get a CarFax and an Autocheck, just to be sure. And get it professionally inspected, as these are the cars that can have hidden problems.

HTH,

Chris.

[Steve H.]

Check to see if the car has had the Serpentine belt, tensioner and idler pulley changed and at what mileage. This is a large labor job. Not so bad on parts if sourced correctly. See if you detect any suspension clunk in the front which can mean subframe bushing issues and/or sway bar links. I just purchased a 1 owner 2008 with 193,000 miles and I like it very much. I do have the sub frame bushing thunk but no leaks, smoke or issues that I know of. I have changed every fluid in the car including the "lifetime" ATF fluid (2 times now). On the road I have seen around 23mpg out of my car but it depends how you drive it. I bought mine as a bad weather car. I have my 2013 Accord for my commute vehicle and daily driver.

[Steve H.]

Also, I would not recommend removing the prop shaft for any reason and running the car. If you want a 2WD I would buy a V70 not an XC. That rear Diff is over $4K why would you want to possibly hurt it.