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View Full Version : xc70 feasibility of repairs aka dodgiest xc70 in existence



moose_460
01-15-2017, 09:29 PM
Hi guys
I have been given my parents old xc70 2002 by parents and was interested in trying to fix all the problems that it has accumulated.

Is it possible (probably not practical to fix)?

- Angry ECU (refuses to start properly, takes 20 seconds to start, Car refused to run with an replacement ECU)

- Central locking doesn't work

- Transmission - been reconditioned twice (from memory), hard stick from 2-3rd, definitely is on its way out

- front left strut has issues

- CD player randomly changes stations

- back windows wind down really slow

- Back door refuses to open (lock doesn't disengage)

I know what you are thinking, this car must of been flogged. Its been driven mostly by my parents who don't drive hard, garaged and serviced regularly. It has had over 15k spent on it and regularly spends weekends in the shop to try 'fix' it.
Anyway any advice appreciated, id enjoy learning about the car by fixing it (studying engineering) so time isn't really a problem for me.
Cheers

albertj
01-16-2017, 03:05 AM
First get a vida/dice setup if you do not yet have one. That will make fixing it practical IMHO.

Next fix the major mechanicals. Replace the struts and consider the rears. If you have the self adjusting suspension this is a pricey job.

Transmission may be fluid change and vida/dice reset.

Angry ecu, I would check grounds first.

Vida/dice will help diagnose the locks/stuck rear door.

hoonk
01-16-2017, 06:28 AM
(probably not practical to fix)?

1. Angry ECU (refuses to start properly, takes 20 seconds to start, Car refused to run with an replacement ECU)
2. Central locking doesn't work
3. Transmission - been reconditioned twice (from memory), hard stick from 2-3rd, definitely is on its way out
4. front left strut has issues
5. CD player randomly changes stations
6. back windows wind down really slow
7. Back door refuses to open (lock doesn't disengage)

1. ECU is coded to the Vin of the car, you can't just swap in a used one, won't work
2. Central locking with remote? with the key, or both? (controlled by VIN coded upper electronic module in the mirror)
3. Transmission replacement cost can be more than the value of the car
4. ?
5. Radio is coded to the car, might be able to swap in a used one from the same year model, steering wheel controls might not work
6. Lubricate? Cable style window regulators in the back doors.
7. inner dock lock is bad, once you get door open

Your opening line - "probably not practical to fix" - what is your definition of practical?
IMHO It's not economically practical to fix all of the above - if the transmission needs replacement.

vtl
01-16-2017, 06:36 AM
Radio is not coded to the car. However, radio from another model year may use slightly different CAN-bus protocol, so it won't work in your car.

JRL
01-16-2017, 08:57 AM
A USED 01-04 radio should be plug and play
For a couple of hundred dollars to a few hundred for a double DIN radio you can install a bulletproof aftermarket radio which will sound better!

albertj
01-16-2017, 10:37 AM
+1 on the windows cables.

Transmission - depends on what was done in the past. I'd drop the pan nod look for chips or mud; replace filter; make sure to refill to proper level. A transmission low on fluid, for instance, will flare and skip as the air pockets in the fluid (due to it being low) go thru the internal plumbing.

Astro14
01-16-2017, 02:49 PM
Um...yeah...except that dropping the transmission pan on THIS car requires lifting the engine and lowering the subframe.

Not simple.

And the filter isn't replaceable.

So...

Read more on what it takes to drop the pan here: http://www.volvoxc.com/0/resources/how-to/pdf/2002-V70-XC-Valve-Body-Replacement-Notes.pdf

And how I set up an external filter here: http://www.volvoxc.com/forums/showthread.php?27334-02-XC70-Transmission-Flush-From-Bottom

Now, if it's been redone twice, there's hope that simply changing the fluid will help. A drain and fill is easy, and takes about 3.5 QT each time. Since the total capacity is 8 quarts, that will have to be done three times to get close to a complete change.

Personally, I would just flush it. Use Mobil 3309, Toyota T-IV, or Valvoline import multi vehicle (which seems to work well). Don't buy Volvo fluid. It's Mobil 3309 at five times what you should be paying...

JRL
01-16-2017, 04:40 PM
+1 on the windows cables.

Transmission - depends on what was done in the past. I'd drop the pan nod look for chips or mud; replace filter; make sure to refill to proper level. A transmission low on fluid, for instance, will flare and skip as the air pockets in the fluid (due to it being low) go thru the internal plumbing.

Oh boy, you're a real help....:confused::confused::confused:

albertj
01-17-2017, 08:17 AM
Oh boy, you're a real help....:confused::confused::confused:

I appreciate that; re-reading my comment I see it wasn't all that helpful, and probably should not have commented.

The AW55 filter is tough to reach - there is a diagram here: http://www.makcotransmissionparts.com/AW-55-50SN.html. The link goes to a catalog page with a PDF of the parts explosion; click on the thumbnail to open the PDF. The filter is part number 010 on the diagram; the diagram is 2 pages, look about halfway down the left hand page between row C and D of the parts explosion to find the filter. The filter is about $13.00 only from that supplier.

For the rest of you - as an FYI I recommend having a look at the thread Astro14 provided a link to.

Albertj

howardc64
01-17-2017, 11:59 AM
Mileage would be helpful for guestimates

A. Not sure why you suspect 20s delay start delay is ECU? maybe fuel supply? Maybe start by checking if fuel rail is pressurized at the start?
B. On tranny, assuming valve body has been redone. Do as Astro14 suggested with ATF drain+fill or flush. Your problem sounds like valvebody's linear solenoids if ATF exchange don't improve the shift
C. Spring seat and/or strut replacement would like likely solve the left front strut issue

These are your biggest drivability/safety issues. You can read up on B+C on my website http://howardsvolvos.webs.com/

As other noted, if tranny is too far gone... repair cost can exceed value of the car but there are a couple of cheap things to do to see if improves (ATF, B4 servo)

moose_460
01-17-2017, 04:49 PM
Mileage would be helpful for guestimates

A. Not sure why you suspect 20s delay start delay is ECU? maybe fuel supply? Maybe start by checking if fuel rail is pressurized at the start?
B. On tranny, assuming valve body has been redone. Do as Astro14 suggested with ATF drain+fill or flush. Your problem sounds like valvebody's linear solenoids if ATF exchange don't improve the shift
C. Spring seat and/or strut replacement would like likely solve the left front strut issue

These are your biggest drivability/safety issues. You can read up on B+C on my website http://howardsvolvos.webs.com/

As other noted, if tranny is too far gone... repair cost can exceed value of the car but there are a couple of cheap things to do to see if improves (ATF, B4 servo)
The car is at 200000km, everything has been checked at the shop for the starting problem, but I'll have another look, thank you for the advice

vova
01-18-2017, 08:56 PM
1-check fuel pressure. Fuel gauge can be connected to the test port on the fuel injector rail(usually covered with blue cap). Go to the local car shop and get something like-http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/diagnostics/fuel-injection-pump-tester-62623.html
it is cheap and will help you figure out the fuel pressure. When the car is running the pressure must be within 3bars. when the car is not running the pressure suppose to remain within 1 bar. When you connect or disconnect tester wear safety glasses and put the rug around the fitting. Do not disconnect or connect with engine running. Better to perform test when engine cold(safer because there are less parts which are hot or can throw a spark)

2-check compression in the engine. Once again go to the shop that rent or sell tools and get something similar to- http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/diagnostics/quick-connect-compression-tester-62622.html. then make sure the battery is good or better (if available connect the 12V charger to the battery in the trunk). Remove the plastic cover from the top of the engine (I think 8 screws T25 or T30 not sure but the volvo tool kit near the spare tire should have it)
Disconnect wiring from 5 spark coils. and remove bolts (10mm) that are holding the ignition coils. remove coils.
You will need to remove spark plugs(plus a good opportunity to replace them unless someone done it not long time ago)
would be a good idea to disconnect the wiring from the fuel injectors(more safer because fuel will not be in a cylinders and also oil coat on a cylinder walls will not be compromised.
Connect the tool to each cylinder and crank the car so it makes around 5 resolutions. Pressure usually is between 10-13bars. difference between cylinders should not be more than 1 bar. (different school of though might have different opinion on that, but the less the better)
Look at this https://www.fcpeuro.com/blog/posts/how-to-do-a-compression-test-on-a-5-cylinder-volvo

After you will perform those tests you will have a lot of info about your car and will be able to make a decision about your next investment steps.