Why you service y our PCV system

[AutosDirectFlorida]

With 148k miles on my XC70, I decided to dig into the PCV system after reading so many comments and threads regarding drivability issues -seals leaking etc.
I figured it'd be a better safe than sorry scenario and most likely needed at this age and mileage.
Car ran well, but did exhibit a random slight (minor) rough idle. No noticeable oil leaks......

This is what I found once I got the oil trap off...........
This build up was solid and had to be dug out with a screwdriver

79487949

My throttle body was covered in oil and cleaned up easily with brake cleaner.
Still in process of putting it all back together as I'm waiting on some parts....

[kutcht1]

Looks like you got to it in time before major leaks started. Your little birdie in your head payed off.
TomK

[MacNoob]

What's the oil change history for that vehicle?

[Xfingers]

Unless you're gonna sell/unload your car, that PCV will need to be replaced sooner or later. Smarter to do it now than wait until you blow a seal at which point you'll have the added job of locking cams with special tool, replacing cam seals, r&r timing belt, dealing with CVVT(s), stranded on road with no oil, oil mess all over bottom of car...speaking from experience! At 120k mi, my car passed the glove test with flying colors so I thought I was in the clear until I punched the engine going up a steep mountain pass.
I think the PCV replacement job can be a little daunting/intimidating for those of us new to working on Volvos or cars in general. It took me a couple days taking my time and working carefully.

[AKAMick]

If you have access to a bore scope, check the block passage to the oil pan for blockage also, I have found that all I have done needed the oil pan removed also, as that passage was plugged up too,

[howardc64]

If you have access to a bore scope, check the block passage to the oil pan for blockage also, I have found that all I have done needed the oil pan removed also, as that passage was plugged up too,

Ditto, blockage in the internal drain channel to oil pan is also fairly common. An easy test while everything is off is to blow air into the drain port and listen for bubbling sound in the oil pan. Just make sure the oil filler cap is off and entire PCV system off (should be) so the positive air pressure can escape.

[youropeen]

This link gives a good visual of blockages in the oil pan.

http://www.brakeandfrontend.com/volvo-pulling-the-plug-on-plugged-oil-traps/

[AutosDirectFlorida]

Unless you're gonna sell/unload your car, that PCV will need to be replaced sooner or later. Smarter to do it now than wait until you blow a seal at which point you'll have the added job of locking cams with special tool, replacing cam seals, r&r timing belt, dealing with CVVT(s), stranded on road with no oil, oil mess all over bottom of car...speaking from experience! At 120k mi, my car passed the glove test with flying colors so I thought I was in the clear until I punched the engine going up a steep mountain pass.
I think the PCV replacement job can be a little daunting/intimidating for those of us new to working on Volvos or cars in general. It took me a couple days taking my time and working carefully.

I'm slightly confused by this post since those pics are from MY car with PCV system off :)

[AutosDirectFlorida]

If you have access to a bore scope, check the block passage to the oil pan for blockage also, I have found that all I have done needed the oil pan removed also, as that passage was plugged up too,

Will do - everything is still apart as I'm waiting on parts so I'll dig a little deeper into that passage and make sure its freed up.

[Xfingers]

I'm slightly confused by this post since those pics are from MY car with PCV system off :)

Yeah, I was trying to give you a "pat on the back" for deciding to go ahead and do the PCV job as regular maintenance. Hopefully, others will read this thread and do the same rather than wait until one of those oil seals blow. Then you'll have a big mess on your hands (like I did!).

[dlundblad]

This link gives a good visual of blockages in the oil pan.

http://www.brakeandfrontend.com/volvo-pulling-the-plug-on-plugged-oil-traps/

I am assuming the plugged passages in photos 11 and 12 were the square things?

How would one know they were plugged and how'd they get thoroughly cleaned out?

[JRL]

You can easily see they're plugged when the manifold is off

[youropeen]

I am assuming the plugged passages in photos 11 and 12 were the square things?

How would one know they were plugged and how'd they get thoroughly cleaned out?

Yes, those are the ones. If the passages on the block look like the ones in the OPs post, I would assume that the passages are blocked like in pics 11 and 12 from the page I linked to.

I've done three of these jobs and luckily never had a blockage like the one that the OP posted. If any were like his, I would definitely have dropped the pan and at least inspected it. While you are in there, replace all the seals.

[dlundblad]

Her's has slightly more miles than OP's so I am wondering if it'll be the same. Probably wouldn't hurt to buy an oil pan gasket just in case then.

I am still curious how one cleans the passages out. I've never done the job before so putting a visual on the length of the passage way is difficult.

[JRL]

There is none.
You need to use Volvo's sealant. (Expensive if you can't borrow some)
It is brushed on after you clean everything.

[youropeen]

Her's has slightly more miles than OP's so I am wondering if it'll be the same. Probably wouldn't hurt to buy an oil pan gasket just in case then.

I am still curious how one cleans the passages out. I've never done the job before so putting a visual on the length of the passage way is difficult.

If the pan is dropped it will be apparent what needs to be done to clean that passage out. A long skinny screw driver will probably work fine at first the a solvent to really clean things up.

The pan also does not use a gasket. It uses an anaerobic sealant that seals the pan to the block when all the bolts are torqued. You can see the sealant on picture 13 in the link I posted. Also on pic 13 you can see where the seals go that I was referring to which are o-rings included in a kit from Volvo.

[dlundblad]

I guess I can kind of see some sealant smeared on the upper right corner of the pan.

Sure looked like a gasket with my low resolution monitor.

Thanks for the info.

[AutosDirectFlorida]

Sounds like I have more work to do with the oil pan gaskets etc. I havent dropped it yet. :(

[JRL]

I guess I can kind of see some sealant smeared on the upper right corner of the pan.

Sure looked like a gasket with my low resolution monitor.


Eh?
All that read stuff you see is the sealer setting up

[dlundblad]

Eh?
All that read stuff you see is the sealer setting up

Your posts leave me scratching my head.

Look in the photo I was referring to. There's some RED smeared where it shouldn't be.

[AutosDirectFlorida]

So heres an update -

Everything went back together OK - cranked the car - ran fine although slightly rough at first.
I then proceeded to remove the oil pan and clean out the passages from below.

Replaced o-rings etc that came in the kit and put everything back together.

Prior to removing the oil pan, the car ran fine - NOW, I have a very loud metal on metal noise.
Yes, I put oil back in the motor......

Before I take all this apart again, I'm curious if anyone has some insight as to what could be causing this noise simply from doing this oil pan job.

Could I have bent something in the pan that the crank is hitting? I've actually seen this happen on a hotrod show before.

Knowing whats in there, I honestly have no idea where this could be coming from.....

Thanks......

[AKAMick]

Yes, check the two long bolts that are at the transmission end, as they can be slightly crooked and not screw into the hole and get wedged between the pan and flywheel, makes a heck of a squeal!

[youropeen]

Yes, check the two long bolts that are at the transmission end, as they can be slightly crooked and not screw into the hole and get wedged between the pan and flywheel, makes a heck of a squeal!

Concur. I had that happen once and it did not sound good at all.

[AutosDirectFlorida]

Yes, check the two long bolts that are at the transmission end, as they can be slightly crooked and not screw into the hole and get wedged between the pan and flywheel, makes a heck of a squeal!

Something I can check without removing the pan :)

I suppose I could pull them and crank the car for a sec and see if the noise went away.
One of those bolts seemed to not want to tighten IIRC - it wouldnt torque, just kept spinning, so crossing my fingers that is actually my problem.

[AKAMick]

You will know when you pull the bolts out as there will be an obvious wear on the end of them, hit them with a rethreader and then pay close attention that they go in straight, just don't over torque them

[AutosDirectFlorida]

HOLY SMOKES - Happy and sad at the same time.

Ecstatic that I didn't have to drop the damn pan again thats for sure......
It was the bolt as you can see in the pics

Car is all put back together now with no issues... whew!!!!

No fixing this bolt though - Off to Volvo tomorrow for a new one.

79667967

[youropeen]

I was lucky as I did not thread two of those bolts correctly. One fell out right away and the second only had a small section that got worn down and I was able to use it.

[AKAMick]

I remember that WTF? feeling after I started my 02 after doing a oil pan job, and hearing that noise, shut it down and did a mental recall of everything I did, nothing but that one bolt that refused to snug down, thinking I would be getting a helicoil for it, I then looked under and saw a bolt laying there, it then became apparent what it was when the bolt had some wear on the end, checked the Flywheel for damage, nothing, just a rethread and put it in paying close attention to catching the threads of the block

[AutosDirectFlorida]

I remember that WTF? feeling after I started my 02 after doing a oil pan job, and hearing that noise, shut it down and did a mental revamp of everything I did, nothing but that one bolt that refused to snug down, thinking I would be getting a helicoil for it, I then looked under and saw a bolt laying there, it then became apparent what it was when the bolt had some wear on the end, checked the Flywheel for damage, nothing, just a rethread and put it in paying close attention to catching the threads of the block

Thats a very scary WTF moment to hear metal noise of that level from the engine :)

I think I messed up my right axle from lifting the motor - the knuckle popped apart, but went back in, however, I have the typical vibration upon acceleration issue now and mechanic diag is the same - bad axle...
Contacted seller though as they're only 3 months old and 1 year warranty - hopefully that will put all of this labor to rest for awhile........

Oh wait...... I know have a low coolant temp CEL to deal with - new thermostat I think - fix 1 thing and two things break :)

[dlundblad]

This is an odd issue indeed.

Would it help to thread those 2 bolts first during re-installation?

[AKAMick]

Most likely it would help, but as not being able to support the pan properly using the end bolts it is not a convenient method, and not doing oil pan installations on a regular basis this problem is not usually forseen
This is an odd issue indeed.

Would it help to thread those 2 bolts first during re-installation?