Timing belt install questions

[AlanS]

Visited my mechanic yesterday re: TB, pulleys, waterpump etc for my 2006 XC70. He said "I'll get you a parts/ labor estimate, but why not do it yourself? You have skills". (which I do!!!). Reading the tutorials, I came across a few snags: I do not have pneumatic tools, thus I cannot remove the crank pulley (Do I have to?). I don't have a means to secure the two cam pulleys so they don't move...suggestions? Any special tools or warnings that you all can provide? Is the waterpump an 'in and out' deal? Assistance please, or the mechanic gets the job, and I have to dig deep in the wallet to pay him!

[Scopeman]

You don't have to remove the crank pulley, but is is much easier if you do. I could not see the crank mark with it on, and snaking the belt behind it is difficult.
I did not have a cam lock tool when I did mine, but I think I would get one if I do the job again, only because it ensures that you can't knock a cam out of time.
The water pump is indeed a bolt on affair, needs new sealant-coated bolts, that usually come with it. The common wisdom is that if this is the first TB job, at about 100K, you don't need to replace the water pump unless it is leaking.
The other reason for me to remove the crank pulley was that not being able to locate the crank mark, I could not locate the cam marks. These cam marks on mine at least, are the thinnest scribe lines, very difficult to see. Mine has some "O" like marks on the cam sprockets, but these ARE NOT the timing marks!

Al in all a relatively easy job for someone who does know their way around an engine.

[Astro14]

You don't need pneumatic tools to get the crank bolt off, but they sure help. It can't be a regular 1/2" impact gun either, it has to be a really strong 1/2" drive one. I've got this one: http://www.ingersollrandproducts.com/am-en/products/tools/impactools/maintenance-automotive-impactools/1-2-drive/2135timax-series Nice gun. Not cheap.

A better solution is to make a crank pulley holder (I used steel bar stock) or to buy one (this: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-crankshaft-holding-tool-cta-2247-2248-1 which is on sale for $62). You'll need a serious breaker bar to loosen the crank pulley, but I prefer that to hammering on the end of the crank with an impact.

You don't need to secure the cam pulleys. Just rotate the engine by hand (using that crank pulley bolt and your breaker bar) until everything lines up. Highlight the marks with a red sharpie.

After the change, be certain that you turn the engine over 720 degrees at the crank (360 at the cams) and re-check your marks. DO NOT SKIP THIS STEP.

Cheers,

[pittsjock]

You really don't need to remove the pulley. It isn't that hard to see the mark on the crank - very pronounced once you know what you are looking for. There is a plastic guard on the front of the crank pulley that has to come off to get the belt in place. Once it is off, you have to twist a bit, but it does go in easily once you understand how to put it in.

Buy the cam holding tool from FCP.

Get the VIDA instruction on cam timing because they are confusing a bit the first time. Your car has CVVT on both cam shafts and they are set up a little different. Make sure you have the dual CVVT instructions.

As Astro says, put it together and then make sure you crank the motor over by hand and triple check your marks and that there is no interference.

My first one took a weekend. The second one was done in a morning.

Good luck.

[jaip]

I had never changed a cambelt before and after advice on here did it with no problems. As I was doing it myself it free'd up labour costs to carry out the waterpump, all pulleys including the serp belt tensioner and alternator clutch pulley, the list goes on... Preventative maintenance never hurts

[billr99]

Last Nov. I did a cam belt on my '05, I discovered that you can make getting the belt around the crank pulley really easy. While I was in there I figured I would also do the engine mount, so what I did was:

1) Using a piece of 1x4 plank on my jack saddle, I put slight upward pressure on the engine sump enough to remove the two bolts holding the mount to the block. I then removed the mount entirely.
2) I then jacked up the engine about an inch or so.
3) With the mount out of the way and the engine slightly elevated, it was easy to get to the two 10mm bolts holding the lower cam belt shield and then removing the shield.
4) With the mount and shield out of the way, the cam belt went around the crank pulley easy, no muss, no fuss.

Anyway, first time I've done it this way and it was way easier to do both the cam and serpentine belts then it had been on my previous 4 or 5 times I've done a white block cam belt.

Have fun,

Bill

[Reverend]

I cannot remove the crank pulley (Do I have to?). I don't have a means to secure the two cam pulleys so they don't move...suggestions? Any special tools or warnings that you all can provide? Is the waterpump an 'in and out' deal?

Ain't nothing to it. No need for cam lock tool or removing the crank.
I generally give the crank a little bit of a turn to get it to "rest" so it (or the cams) won't turn easily.

The crank stays on. You remove a little guide (two 10mm bolts, IIRC) and just hang the belt around it.

Here's what I do to make it easier on me. I use white-out to mark the timing belt at the cam marks. Then I can count teeth between the marks. The old belt comes off, then I mark the NEW belt. Same amount of teeth between the marks on the new belt as the old.

Replace the pump - it's cheap and very easy at that point. It's cheap insurance. I replace the tensioner and pulleys and then I line up the marked new belt with the marks on the teeth of the cams. They should line up!

The crank mark is easy to see once you've found it the first time. I mark them with white-out too to make it easy to see and verify.


Anyway, with the marks on the belt lining up with the marks on the cams I've never had to adjust anything. It always lined up. However do what Astro14 said and TURN THE CRANK AT LEAST TWO REVOLUTIONS to ensure no valves are binding (meaning the cams slipped) and that the marks all line up again. If they do, you're good.

Marks on crank/block;
http://i.imgur.com/Vs5yMGJh.png


Marks on cam/cover;
http://i.imgur.com/JJyeEgOh.png

[Xfingers]

I've replaced my TB twice and was never able to find timing mark on crank. Before removing belt, I lined up the marks on cam pulleys with the plastic timing belt cover and then took a black sharpie pen and made a heavy mark in the center of the crank pulley. Keep in mind this mark is not permanent and will rub off after the job is done and you start the engine (maybe whiteout is better?).
I didn't remove the crank pulley but instead twisted, slid ("flossed") the timing belt on and off. A useful suggestion by another poster is to take your OLD belt you just removed and practice reinstalling it on the crank pulley a couple times until you come up with the right technique or approach to getting that bugger back on. Knowing which side to thread first, how to twist the belt, where to keep or take up slack made the difference for me in reinstalling the belt on the crank pulley. Not trying to make things sound overcomplicated, just that practicing with the old belt was a big help for me!

[AlanS]

If I pick up a cam lock tool (as they are not expensive), do I not eliminate the fear of the cams moving? This seems to me, if I lock the cams, mark the crank pulley, then it is kinda foolproof in lining everything up. The issue I had with my S40 was the CVV cam pulley moved when I took the belt off, and even with the mark, it was not clear if I was a tooth or two off on the belt (I obviously worked it out), but always felt that locking the cams would have solved any issue.

[pittsjock]

If I pick up a cam lock tool (as they are not expensive), do I not eliminate the fear of the cams moving?

Yes and no. The cams themselves won't move, but the CVVT pulleys can move (have internal movement) and you'll end up in the same spot. You don't really need to buy the tool unless you want to remove the CVVT hubs themselves - then it is a must. It does give you piece of mind though.

So, even with the cams locked in position, the CVVT cams have 15 degrees (maybe more?) of movement in them. They have to be installed at one stop, rotated to the other stop and then set 1 tooth (exhaust) and 1 1/2 teeth (intake) - again covered in VIDA. Since you aren't removing the CVVT's - this is superfluous, but does go towards making sure you keep everything aligned.

One thing to note if you go without the tool - there are slots on the back of the camshafts - where the position sensors are attached. You should remove the covers and the sensors - before you remove the belt - so you can visually check the position of the slots. The slots will be horizontal (or pretty close) when you line up the timing marks on the pulley side.

I have a PDF of the installation procedure for the CVVT, which gives you the "teach a man to fish" version. It is too big to post, but you can PM me and I'll email it to you.