etm question

[demsome]

I've been getting the dreaded symptoms of a dirty etm. Constantly fluctuating idle, loss of lower end power.
My question is can it be cleaned while still on the car if I just remove the boost pipe. I seriously am mechanically special needs so the less I take off the better. This is the turbo model 2.4.
Also while I'm asking , is there any shops in central Indiana that can update my tranny as its having late downshifts and some shift flare.

[JRL]

Year and mileage would help.
You really can mess it up trying to clean it on the car

[Astro14]

You can't really get at the ETM while on the car. Remove the intercooler to ETM pipe, then disconnect the harness/plug from the ETM, and remove the 4 bolts holding it in place. Put it on the bench and clean it. Use a new crush gasket when you install it.

Your transmission won't be fixed by "updates". If you're very lucky, clean fluid will help. Do a transmission cooler line fluid exchange with Mobil 3309 or Toyota T-IV then see what you've got. If it helps - you're lucky. If not, you can try a valve body, or a rebuild.

[demsome]

My apologies, its the 01 xc v70 awd turbo. So far seems like an amazing car, I also think I'm getting the gawdawful pcv prob too. Smokin from dipstick tube and occasional plume behind car. If I gotta take off all that's required to do the unnecessarily complex pcv system I might as well just bite the proverbial bullit and do everything while I'm at it. Fml

[Astro14]

Ah...traveling the road that many of us have been down with this chassis/car...

OK, if you've got PCV issues, bite the bullet and do the complete system. While the big hose from the flame trap box to the intake pipe (with coolant hose built in) is usually OK, getting a kit with that hose makes life much easier because everything is apart and you can do the hose then and there. Use new seals, clamps, hoses when you do this. IPD (www.ipdusa.com) sells a good kit. So does FCP Euro.

You've got to pull the manifold to do the PCV system, so take the throttle body off while the manifold is on the bench. Couldn't be easier. Four bolts. The 2001, however, had some throttle body/ETM issues, so a clean might not be enough. You might need a rebuilt unit. A throttle body test with VIDA will help diagnose this. See Howard's write up...

http://www.freewebs.com/howardsvolvos/

In fact, read through his entire site.

Now, when you do the PCV system, you've got to ensure that the block to oil pan passages are clear as well. You can clean them out with a flexible piece of wire/cable ties/brush, or you can drop the oil pan and work up from the pan. The pan is harder (and you'll need pan to block o-rings as well as sealant and oil cooler o-rings) but more certain. When the flame trap box is off, if the visible portion of those passages are really plugged up (as they often are), I strongly encourage the pan drop. It's an hour of work, a modest investment in parts/supplies and well worth the certainty of fixing the PCV problems.

While you're doing all this, don't ignore the transmission. Replace the fluid. Google "Gibbons flush" from this site, or download the IPD instruction sheet here: https://www.ipdusa.com/products/4808/107945-automatic-transmission-flush-hose-kit. And buy the kit while you're at it. The clip on your cooler line will likely break, and you need the o-rings and hose anyway.

As I said, if you're lucky, new fluid will help the shifting. It certainly helped mine...for a while...then I rebuilt the valve body. That was 100,000 miles ago. The original transmission, with its rebuilt valve body, is shifting perfectly with 201,000 miles on it now...

Here's the write-up for that job: http://www.volvoxc.com/0/resources/how-to/pdf/2002-V70-XC-Valve-Body-Replacement-Notes.pdf

Finally, once you get it sorted, use a high quality engine oil. I discuss that ad nauseum here: http://www.volvoxc.com/forums/showthread.php?19629-Oil-Rant/page5

[8pack]

If you are doing the pcv, definitely drop the pan. Change 5he gaskets on the turbo return tube. Takes 15 mins most of which is trying fit your hands and contort to get the bolts off and on.

[Xfingers]

When you've got the intake manifold off, take a quick look at the connections to your starter motor, especially the small wire from the ignition to the starter solenoid. This wire has a small metal clip connection which can wiggle loose over time and then one day you get a WTF moment where you try to start your car and no crank!

[Sierra]

Bookmarked this post ..... But can someone tell me what ETM stands for ?

I am on a big learning self learning curve myself for our '01 70XC - But Am getting all this in with all your time and post.

Thanks,
Dan

[Astro14]

ETM = Electronic Throttle Module. The car is drive by wire...so, you provide an input to the computer via the "gas" pedal...and it sends a signal to the ETM to vary throttle opening in response.

[Sierra]

Copy- Just like my Dodge Diesel .. Thanks !

[demsome]

update, well after pulling my crossbar/motormount I inspected all my charge lines and the rubber hose between the turbo and the crossover pipe was blown out. replaced it and now the thing is a rocket again! smooth idle, gas mileage is back. only thing left to rectify now is a good transmission drain and fill. thanks all who responded