Need help! Possible Emissions issue or what? i dont know.

[kyvolvoguy]

my 2001 V70 XC is having issues sitting on idle. when starting the car it will stay at 1000 RPMs but after acouple of secends it will jump between 200 to 700 RPMs. the code i'm getting at the moment is P1238 witch is for the Turbo Control Valve, but the thing is about that code, i just replaced the control valve and it STILL says it, i'm not too knowledgeable about Volvos so trying to figure this issue out is a tough one for me.

on another note, i'v also have replaced the Starter, Electronic throttle module( and it's been programmed), and all 5 spark plugs

can someone please help me out!

[Antherzoll]

High RPM on startup for the first couple seconds is normal, it's call catalytic warm up phase. Unplug the MAF, if it runs better then it's a vacuum/boost, or possibly the MAF. I wouldn't rule out the ETM even though it has been replaced.

[kyvolvoguy]

is their a possible cheap way to fix this?
i mean without having to replace anything else that i dont need to

[Antherzoll]

With proper diagnostics you won't need to throw parts at it hopelessly. I always suggest a VIDA/DiCE (dealer) scan when possible, but not always required. Start with what I have posted below.

[JRL]

There is almost never a cheap way to fix a volvo

[kyvolvoguy]

i don't suppose that someone would have a picture of where the vacuum hoses all go in and out at do they?

The guy that was suppose to show up today and do a VIDA/DiCE scan to my Volvo never showed up and never returned my call... (2nd time this guy has done that) and the only other place i can think of in town that specifically works on Volvo's is going to cost me 100$ to do a full diagnoses (Witch goes towards actually having them fix it but i wanna buy the parts and fix it myself for the experience of doing so)

SOOO im going to go off on saying that the vacuum hoses could be the issue, atleast it's something to go off on, hopfully this will be my last issue with this thing for a while.
im all out of money! lol

[volvo newb]

Here is a pic of the Vacuum hose routing sticker that was on the inside of my engine hood off my 2001 V70XC. Hope it helps.

[sabas83]

Try cleaning or replacing MAF sensor? Also check the turbo pipe to make sure it is on tight, sometimes they loosen up.

[Antherzoll]

Cigar test :)


https://youtu.be/zMok2y05jNE

[kyvolvoguy]

cigar test is the greatest thing that i'v ever seen, hope cigarettes work just as well!
Marlboro don't fail me now!

Also volvo newb, thanks so much for the picture! actually helped out alot, im not sure why it was hard to even find something like that on google, but i found everything but the one i needed lol! i guess mine use to have the sticker but it's not now, not since i'v owned this thing.

[kyvolvoguy]

Try cleaning or replacing MAF sensor? Also check the turbo pipe to make sure it is on tight, sometimes they loosen up.

that's actually something else that i'v already replaced just forgotten to add it to my original post. but the old one doesn't even look like it was bad to begin with so after i get the new hose's that i need and it turns out that i didn't need the MAF then imma get my money back from it! Lol

[kyvolvoguy]

ok i just tried out the little smoke test and the only place that i saw smoke come out of was the inlet turbo hose, well not exactly the hose but the cupping that connects the hose and the turbo charge, now is this something that would actually cause the Volvo to now idle properly? because i thought that whole hose was for air intake, if that's the case then it shouldn't madder a whole lot that theirs a crack in the cupping right?

[Antherzoll]

Any leak post MAF will cause running issues.

The ECU uses the MAF reading for fueling. If extra air is introduced into the system then this calculation will be off causing a lean condition. A leak in the induction piping (post turbo) will also leak on boost, causing air to escape the system and the engine to run rich.

If you unplug the MAF the ECU will use another strategy to calculate fueling (I assume it uses O2 reading). You will get a CEL, but if the idle smooths out and it drives better then you can be quite sure it's a vacuum leak or a faulty MAF.

[kyvolvoguy]

like i said to sabas83, the MAF is something that i have replaced on this volvo and forgot to add it to the list of things that i replaced on this original post here, but if it's something that still could be an issue then i'll just return that one and grab another lol, but i feel like it really could be something with the vacuum, so that being said, after i replace that cupping that i was talking about (Part number# 31261370) and figure things out from their.

[volvo newb]

...but i feel like it really could be something with the vacuum, so that being said, after i replace that cupping that i was talking about (Part number# 31261370) and figure things out from their.

kyvolvoguy,
You're welcome for the vacuum label pic. I think if you do have a tear in the coupler connecting the over-the-engine air pipe to the Turbo (the part number you indicated above), it could absolutely be the cause of your symptoms. After trying a new MAF, I still had the same issues as you describe. I found the tear by the oil gunk building up around it. I got a new coupler from http://www.siliconeintakes.com/silicone-hose/ along with the T-Bolt Clamps they sell. I am sorry I can't remember the reducing coupler hose diameters. I made the mistake of trying to measure my torn one while still installed and missed that it was a reducing diameter coupler the first time. Pic attached of coupler installed. Good luck.

[kyvolvoguy]

Ok so i JUST replaced it and it actually sat on idle the way it was suppose to, not at first but it did...
... for a good 5 min anyway and then it acted up just as it was, im getting so pissed at this whole thing at this point that it's just not even funny, what exactly am i missing here? when i did the smoke thing, that cupping connecting the hose and turbo was the only thing smoke was escaping from. and it STILL doesn't idle right after replacing. if it wasn't for the fact that i need a car right now then i'd just break the living crap out of that two ton paper weight!

[Antherzoll]

Maybe there's another leak, try smoking it again, might calm you down. :)

Do you have a OBDII reader, can you read fuel trims with it?
Have you checked the PCV system?

[kyvolvoguy]

Antherzoll
i have access to a reader from a friend of mine, i dont know if it can read fuel trims though,

how would i go about cheeking to see if the PCV system is bad?

[volvo newb]

Kyvolvoguy,
Hang in there. Antherzoll could be spot on with the other leak comment. After replacing the Turbo Pipe coupler as you did, mine popped off again and had to be retightened. If the rubber air hose on the passenger side that goes into the intercooler is loose or cracked, you can get the same fluctuations. Happened to me when I didn't tighten the clamp well enough. Also you said you had ETM work done. Could be a loose connection after that work.
If you take the oil cap off while at idle and place a rubber glove over the oil fill neck, a properly functioning PCV system should cause the glove to collapse into the hole. If you need a PCV cleaning, the glove will inflate. Check at idle and at rpm.
If you need to do the job, there are kits at FCP Euro and lots of threads with alternative ways to get the job done. Good luck and stay calm.

[Antherzoll]

PCV check

https://youtu.be/FIRoc0VxLd4

[kyvolvoguy]

Ok so my PCV needs cleaning, like i didn't even get a chance to put the glove on i could just see the smoke blowing out of it, is this something i can do myself?

ALSO earlier today i was able to make the Volvo run for a while, i sprayed down the inside of the TCV plug and it actually ran until i parked it back in my drive way, turned it off, waiting a few seconds and turned it back on, after i turned it back on it started acting right back up like it's been doing, fingers crossed on it just being the pcv system now,