A/C compressor and climate control system doors in dash.

[blueXC2001]

Hello guys. I have a 2001 XC turbo 2.4L

First, I would like to disconnect my A/C compressor from electrical system for a while to see what happens. I think this is easy to do, but have any of your tried this yet? Any difficulties? Recommendations on doing this? (I don't need the A/C much, so I might just cut the power to it and leave it unpowered indefinitely).

Second, I have been told that the doors used to control the flow of air inside the dash malfunction and it's hard to determine if one or more are defective --so, it's often futile to attempt a repair on that system. True? One other thing on the dashboard: it sounds like motors continue to run inside the dash where the climate controls reside for 3-6 mintues after the car is shut down entirely. That's strange.

Lastly, is this car known to have plenty of fuel pump failures? Inadequate fuel pressure for other reasons?

[nickbw]

First off, you give next to no info about your knowledge of Volvos or your own model, nor do you state a clear reason to disconnect the system beyond the statement that you don't use it very much and you think the "dash board vents" give trouble. So it is hard to guage the right level of response.
Second the 'air con' system which Volvo terms Climate Control, is designed to run always, regardless of if the air con (cooling) mode or meerly fresh air (ambient temp) is selected. So my fundamental comment is that you are unwise to disconnect the system on the grounds given. In justification of this is that a/ the compressor is belt driven by the auxillary belt (also alternator/generator and power steering pump) I do not know how electrical disconnection affects the clutch on the compressor pump but my gut instinct says adversely. b/ This in turn could affect the propper functioning of the auxiliary (serpentine) belt and tensioner pulley. These failing have been known to take out the timing belt one way or another. Given the engine design is "interference fit" you are looking at catastrophic damage in that situation.

The climate control system needs to run periodically, even in winter time (on air con - cooling mode) to ensure lubrication of parts and maintenance of seals. The sensors for cabin temperature and ambient air ensure the adjustable vents are correctly adjusted according to desired air flow/temp and that also includes the fan speed. For example if cooling is set (on either channel) to low (blue range) then at start up in warm weather the fan speed will start near maximum and only reduce as cabin temperature nears set temp range.
All the settings can only be correctly regulated by using Volvo Vida/Dice.

Demisting of the interior screens, front and back is best achieved by running the climate control demist function in air con mode (dehumidifying) so if you have immobilised the compressor you will not have the function.

Lastly, I believe the "doors inside the dash" you refer to are the ones behind the dash where the pipes and ducts come through the firewall into the cabin, specifically behind the cabin filter. These ducts/vents (called dampers I think) have a setting that is programmable through Vida/Dice. Also there are two grades of filter a thin and a thick one (with activated charcole granules) the latter is part or the air quality system and there is a component in the front air vent on the firewall that measures air quality and shuts the vent to the cabin and selects recirculation mode as a temporary basis to preventing bad air (diesel fumes etc) entering the cabin. An air con specialist should have the capacity to recharge the system but will not have the diagnostic facility to ensure theat it is correctly adjusted/programmed. So, whether Indy or Franchised I would advise a Volvo Dealer/Specialist, inspects the system. At the very least, get in touch with a forum member who will hook your car up to their Vida/DiCE system and check out if your climate control is correctly setup. As you will understand from my attempted explanation of how the system works there are many components which can give a fault, and will therefore affect the poor working, not least of which is the sensor behind the slotted window in the central dash panel which becomes blocked with 'lint' or fluff and is best cleaned with an artist's brush or vacuum cleaner. The sensor (a diode) can fail and need replacement … this is already documented is this wonderful forum.

[Astro14]

First - disconnecting the compressor won't gain you much, you can unplug it at the compressor...but why? Not running it will cause the seals to dry out, ruining the system and requiring expensive repair, and in the interim, your defroster won't work as well (windshield defrost uses the AC compressor to dry the air to increase effectiveness). So, you're decreasing safety while increasing the chance of expensive repair. Not a great plan.

Second, I've not had a problem with either car. Just make certain that the filters are serviced, and if you're having trouble, then try a battery disconnect/reset (follow proper procedures or you'll risk frying things) to reset the modules. Key off, let sit for 10 minutes, disconnect, let sit for a minute, key to position 2, reconnect.

If that doesn't reset things, you need VIDA to tell you what's up.

The fuel pump failures on this car resulted in leaks. So, if it's not leaking, it's probably OK. I've got over 270,000 miles on the original fuel pump in my 4 Runner, so they can last quite a long time. If you're worried about fuel pressure, check it with a gauge.

It would help a lot if you told us the symptoms...this post is odd...like suggesting amputation of a limb before we know why you want to cut it off...