Need engine for my 2002 XC70

[jays87lx]

Hi guys, I am a member on many other forums from Mustangs to Harleys and everything in between under the same username. I have never had to look at a Volvo until I got a clean 2002XC70 for my son.
It had high miles but ran 100%, no rust and looks good. He was neglectful on the oil changes and it is knocking now.
I have found a few motors online- the vin specific numbers of the 6th and 7th digit are "58". I have found a few motors that say they are the same vin specific but came out of V60's
My question: is this the same motor or will I have to change over too much stuff and should look for a different engine
Any help will be appreciated. He is going to his second year of college, doing really well and want to keep him in this car.
The car has 280K, was maintained very well, everything works so I think I can do an eng or less than a grand- (I do all my own labor)

[Antherzoll]

How bad is the knocking, and do you suspect other damage? Has the knock just developed, or has the vehicle been driven around with the known issue?

You could possible get away with just replacing the rod bearings, which isn't that hard, unless the engine is toast.

Any engine from a 2000-2004 V70/XC70/S60/2.4T B5244T3 will work without modifications. Make sure you change over the electronics to avoid confusing the ECU.

[jays87lx]

Well that is a good question. My son called me one night saying "Dad, my car is making a noise in the engine" I told him to bring it by the next day. I asked if he checked the oil lately and his reply was "yea, there's new oil in it" so I am sure what happened was he didn't check the oil, it started knocking, he figured if he added oil it would quiet down which the damage was already done. So who knows how long it was knocking. or what the damage is. Why do you say changing bearings is an easy way out??

How bad is the knocking, and do you suspect other damage? Has the knock just developed, or has the vehicle been driven around with the known issue?

You could possible get away with just replacing the rod bearings, which isn't that hard, unless the engine is toast.

Any engine from a 2000-2004 V70/XC70/S60/2.4T B5244T3 will work without modifications. Make sure you change over the electronics to avoid confusing the ECU.

[Antherzoll]

Just my opinion. Easier to drop the pan and check/replace the rod bearing first than pull the motor.

If the main bearings are knocking, or the engine was driven for a long time with this issue than the crank might be toast, so go ahead and pull the engine.

[jays87lx]

Just my opinion. Easier to drop the pan and check/replace the rod bearing first than pull the motor.

If the main bearings are knocking, or the engine was driven for a long time with this issue than the crank might be toast, so go ahead and pull the engine.

Anything I should look for or watch out for other than keeping the electronics from the old system. I am assuming you are referring to sensors etc. Being a turbo car is there anything I should look for here as well? Thank you for the help

[howardc64]

Anything I should look for or watch out for other than keeping the electronics from the old system. I am assuming you are referring to sensors etc. Being a turbo car is there anything I should look for here as well? Thank you for the help

I'd imagine computers in the engine bay are necessary to keep with the car. They are "married" together with other computers including ones in the cabin. I'd guess ECM, TCM for sure. Not sure about ETM, ABS (On an engine pull, ABS removal may not be unnecessary? ETM is attached to the bottom of the intake manifold so will comes out of the engine)

I would guess sensors are all the same (MAF, MAP, TCV, etc...) on compatible engines and they are basically all "dumb" components read or controlled by the ECM. Generally, sensors can be changed without messing with software so swapping them shouldn't be a problem. Also want to make sure sensors are same part numbers between the engines. An easy way to check is look at new parts and see if the same part number cover the year of both engines. On turbo, probably best to have the same model turbo (boost capacity) Not sure if ECM needs to know if tuned or different capacity.

I've not done this so check with someone that has. Just going by my knowledge is how these computers+sensors communicate.

[Antherzoll]

Yes, most of the sensors are dumb, only things that will need to be swapped over is the ETM(throttle) as it is married to the vehicle.

Assuming the engine is consuming oil because it got low, I'd check the condition of turbo to see if it's leaking and check/replace the PCV system with new part, don't reuse the parts from the old engine.

[howardc64]

Anything I should look for or watch out for other than keeping the electronics from the old system. I am assuming you are referring to sensors etc. Being a turbo car is there anything I should look for here as well? Thank you for the help

Just answered a question on crankspeed position sensor. Looks like 2 different PN exist depend on chassis number and how it attaches to the harness. See this post

http://www.volvoxc.com/forums/showthread.php?27535-Crankshaft-Position-Sensor-questions

[jays87lx]

I am going to drop the pan this week. If I think it can be saved with new bearings are they a dealer only item? Also what should I look for? Grab the bottom of each rod where it connects to the crank and wiggle it and see if there is any play???
Also, I just asked him if the oil light came on before the knocking started, he said no. He said it came on when he drove it 2 miles to my house.
Should I just plan on replacing the oil pump as well??

Edit: I checked the oil level just now, it is "slightly" higher than at the top hash mark on the fill stick. He said he put in 2 qts of oil when it started to knock. So being that he added 2 qts and its past full I would think initially that he was only a qt down and in my opinion not enough to cause a rod knock so is there a good chance the pump was failing? Again, the car has 280K. Where is the oil pump in the car?

[Antherzoll]

Oil pump, not likely. O-Rings and clogged pick-ups very possible.

Once the pan I'd dropped you should be able to identify which rod is knocking by feeling for excessive play on the big end. You can order OE bearings from the dealer or online resources such as Tasca or FCP.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-engine-rod-bearing-genuine-volvo-30777466

O-Ring kit

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-engine-oil-sump-o-ring-kit-victor-30750783

[jays87lx]

Oil pump, not likely. O-Rings and clogged pick-ups very possible.

Once the pan I'd dropped you should be able to identify which rod is knocking by feeling for excessive play on the big end. You can order OE bearings from the dealer or online resources such as Tasca or FCP.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-engine-rod-bearing-genuine-volvo-30777466

O-Ring kit

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-engine-oil-sump-o-ring-kit-victor-30750783

so the o ring set with "rebuild" the pick up to pump assembly?

[Antherzoll]

That kit dosen't include the pick-up tube O-ring for some reason, here it is.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-engine-oil-pump-pickup-tube-gasket-30637867oe

Just remove it and clean it carefully, try not to damage the screen. Could let it soak in kerosene to aid in cleaning.

Also that kit doesn't include the gasket maker.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/silicone-gasket-maker-chemical-sealant-1161059oe

Not mine, but here's a pic with the pan removed.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk195/red98s70/Photo-0082.jpg (http://s280.photobucket.com/user/red98s70/media/Photo-0082.jpg.html)

EDIT:
The pic reminded me. You'll need 10mm 12point socket to remove the con rod bearing cap screws.

[JRL]

I don't think you have ever said how many miles are on the XC and engine

[jays87lx]

I don't think you have ever said how many miles are on the XC and engine

Its in my initial post- Coming up on 280K

Is there anyway that the turbo could be leaking or burning oil? He never mentioned any puddles where he parks but I figured I should check out that possibility

[Antherzoll]

Its in my initial post- Coming up on 280K

Is there anyway that the turbo could be leaking or burning oil? He never mentioned any puddles where he parks but I figured I should check out that possibility

Yes. If the bearing in the turbo is worn it will leak oil into both the turbine and compressor housing, normally you will notice burning oil if it's leaking. You can remove the intake and the over the engine pipe to inspect the turbo. Check the shaft for play, some play axial is acceptable but it should be quite tight laterally, if not it needs to be rebuilt.

Also inspect for oil in the intake tract. Some is normal, but if it's excessive it can be either the turbo or a clogged PCV.

[jays87lx]

Ok, I dropped the pan today and sure enough cylinder #2 (from pass to driver) is loose on the crankshaft. I am going to take my chance and replace the bearing, put it back together and keep my fingers crossed.

Could you guys verify the correct bearings??

Also the turbo has oil all around it but I will attack that once I see what happens with this knocking

2002 Volvo XC70
B5244T
YV1SZ58DX21076481

Also what is the correct torque specs for the rod caps once I put them on?

[Antherzoll]

Volvo has used the same bearings for the white block across most of the variations so the linked bearings are correct.
Look under the fitment tab and you will see your model.
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-engine-rod-bearing-genuine-volvo-30777466

Here's Tasca #25 is the bearing.
http://www.tascaparts.com/auto-parts/2002/volvo/v70/x-c-trim/2-4l-l5-gas-engine/engine-cat/engine-scat

http://www.volvohowto.com/volvo-s60-v70-torque-specs-specifications/
Connecting rod cap – connecting rod with treated toothed surface between the connecting rod and cap, screw with waist
Stage 1: Torque to 20 Nm
Stage 2: Tighten/rotate 90°

Screw:
http://www.tascaparts.com/oe-volvo/9125471

[jays87lx]

Volvo has used the same bearings for the white block across most of the variations so the linked bearings are correct.
Look under the fitment tab and you will see your model.
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-engine-rod-bearing-genuine-volvo-30777466

Here's Tasca #25 is the bearing.
http://www.tascaparts.com/auto-parts/2002/volvo/v70/x-c-trim/2-4l-l5-gas-engine/engine-cat/engine-scat

http://www.volvohowto.com/volvo-s60-v70-torque-specs-specifications/
Connecting rod cap – connecting rod with treated toothed surface between the connecting rod and cap, screw with waist
Stage 1: Torque to 20 Nm
Stage 2: Tighten/rotate 90°

Screw:
http://www.tascaparts.com/oe-volvo/9125471

So the cap bolts are one use only?
How do you convert Nm to Lbft?
And that means Tighten to 20Nm then turn another 90 degrees?

[Antherzoll]

Yes, they are torque to yield so they should be replaced.

1nm = 0.728 ft/lb
20nm = 14.75 ft/lb
Then turn 90*

[jays87lx]

I stopped at the dealer and ordered the O-ring kit, Bearing, 2 seals from the oil cooler to the pan as well as atube of gasket sealer- That was $35 alone!!!! What is the difference between that and $7 blk RTV??

[Antherzoll]

The Volvo sealant is an anaerobic sealer. I'm sure you can find something that works as well, but it's Volvo so I'd trust it before an alternative.

[jays87lx]

OK, well I got the brearing and put it in today, Torqued the end caps, installed the pan, filled with oil, started it up- ran fine for 30 minutes, A slight noise but no where near like what it was- I had my son start to drive it home and it made it about 15 miles on the highway. we took the exit and stopped at the bottom. When he went to accelerate the oil light came on, it started rapping again so we pulled into a pking lot and I guess I will buy an engine . Any recommendations, advice, know where there is a decent engine not outrageously priced??

[Antherzoll]

Sorry to hear it didn't work out.

One of the most reputable Volvo salvage yards is Erie Volvo.

http://www.erievolvo.com/

[Astro14]

OK, well I got the brearing and put it in today, Torqued the end caps, installed the pan, filled with oil, started it up- ran fine for 30 minutes, A slight noise but no where near like what it was- I had my son start to drive it home and it made it about 15 miles on the highway. we took the exit and stopped at the bottom. When he went to accelerate the oil light came on, it started rapping again so we pulled into a pking lot and I guess I will buy an engine . Any recommendations, advice, know where there is a decent engine not outrageously priced??

Wait - you replaced only one bearing?

Did you at least plastigauge the others to know that they were OK?