Leaking way to much oil!

[murderwagonv70]

Hello everyone, My name is Chris and I have a 2002 V70 XC with about 180,xxx miles. Ive had to car for 4 years or so and has always had a bit of an oil leak from the passenger side rear cam seal. I did a bunch or research when the leak worsened and found this is a common problem with these cars and was directed to replace the seal and the PCV system. I got the whole kit from FCP and changed everything.

I put everything back together and almost immediately it started leaking again, much much worse than it was to begin with. I thought maybe i didn't push the seal in far enough so i did some more research and found I did in fact put the seal in right "about a quarters thickness in". I really don't want to pull it all apart again to to have it leak all over the place again. Any help from anyone would be greatly appreciated.

[Antherzoll]

VVT Hub can be scored or worn out, possibly need to be replaced.

http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/topic/159704-lets-talk-cam-seals-and-how-to-on-a-dual-vvt-5-cyl/

When you did the PCV service did you clean the PTC?

[Astro14]

Passages from the block to the oil pan sludge up too.

Unless you rodded them out, or dropped the pan itself, is likely that you still have a PCV blockage causing the leak.

[murderwagonv70]

What would the VVT have to do with the cam seals on the opposite side? No i didn't clean the PTC. What I was told by FCP was just replace the flame trap and hoses that connect to it. Am i going to have to tear it all apart to clean the PTC and and the passages to the block or can I just run some cleaners through it?

[howardc64]

What would the VVT have to do with the cam seals on the opposite side? No i didn't clean the PTC. What I was told by FCP was just replace the flame trap and hoses that connect to it. Am i going to have to tear it all apart to clean the PTC and and the passages to the block or can I just run some cleaners through it?

You can get to PTC without removing the PCV system. It sits on the fresh air pipe and you can take that whole pipe out to clean it. Toughest parts of removal are

- sneak your hand near the turbo side fitting to loosen the clamp
- as I recall, a couple of vacuum lines near the PTC
- disconnect the PTC heater electrical connector. Just squeeze type so not too hard but tucked deep in there
- heat up the fresh air pipe fitting near the MAF with a heat gun so you can twist it off..

While you are at it, clean the typical oil gunk that settles at the bottom of the pipe fitting to the turbo. That gunk creates an opening and oil vapor from PCV accumulates and leaks through there onto the turbo housing.

On Astro14's suggestion on oil pan interior passage blockage where the flame/oil trap drains into, you will have to either remove the trap and/or pan to get it thoroughly cleaned out. I've not done it so perhaps Astro14 can comment on if both trap+pan need to come off for proper cleaning.

[Antherzoll]

What would the VVT have to do with the cam seals on the opposite side?

Sorry, confused myself. You mentioned passenger side rear cam seal. I assumed front (timing belt/passenger side) exhaust (rear) cam seal.

[volvospeed70]

Sorry, confused myself. You mentioned passenger side rear cam seal. I assumed front (timing belt/passenger side) exhaust (rear) cam seal.


You did say Passenger side which is the timing belt side. Did you mean to say drivers side rear of the engine originally (Murderwagon)?

It's hard to diagnose for you when your saying the wrong side.

[Astro14]

As far as cleaning out the block to trap passages, it's possible to do it with a stiff metal rod, like coat hanger, or a .22 cal rifle brush. My T5 didn't need it. As I was scraping out the block fittings, I was using a shop vac to catch the carbon, and it kept pulling oil from the pan (ultimately, a big mess...)...but the T5 wasn't leaking oil when I did the PCV, it was preventive maintenance. I simply did the job to preclude having to do it later.

But the XC, which had a complete blockage that caused a cam seal leak (it actually forced the cam seal out of the head and oil was literally pouring from the engine), needed that passage rodded out.

My sequence of events with that car:

1. big oil leak. Wife calls from an hour away, she had, thankfully, noticed the leak and pulled over. I added four quarts to get oil back on the dipstick and could see oil pouring from the engine once it was started. We called AAA and had the car put on a flatbed.

2. bought cam locking tool, removed rear cam covers/seals, locked cams, removed timing belt and cam pulleys, removed starter to lock crank in place, replaced cam and crank seals.

3. pulled manifold and replaced all PCV components using IPD kit.

4. drove car about 2 months. Noticed oil leak from crank.

5. pulled timing belt, replaced crank seal and timing belt (oil degrades rubber).

6. drove car about 4 months. Noticed oil leak from crank.

7. took car to dealer. Detailed conversation with technician on what I had done to date. He checkd PCV pressure, it was way too high.

PCV WAS STILL BLOCKED

8. had dealer replace crank seal, remove manifold and clear out passage to oil pan.

I pick up the car this afternoon...

Now, I've not done the oil pan, but it's straightforward. It would be the most effective way to clean out that passage. I would try to avoid removing parts that I don't have to though...the tech was able to clean it with a metal brush (he said it was a small caliber rifle brush) and clearly, he wasn't worried about the bits of carbon that ended up in the oil pan.

Quite a saga...it's been nine months sorting this all out. It all resulted from the passage between block and pan being caked with carbon. I cleaned out what I could see, but I clearly didn't go far enough, and that cost me having to redo the job, once on the PCV system and twice on the crank seal.

Fortunately, I didn't have to do the cam seals again. They're a PITA. Lots comes off the driver/back side of the engine to get cam access and lock them in place. It's a bit fiddly getting the VVT back on as well so that the timing is proper.

[murderwagonv70]

Sorry for the confusion everyone, I did say passenger side when it was in fact coming from the driver side rear cam seal, after 4 hours of fighting with the V70 I was a little flustered. I will look into the PTC this weekend as well as the passages to the block. I asked a buddy and he said to silicone the cam seal in an aggressively run cleaners through engine and than replace the seal. Would this be a good idea or would crankcase pressure push other seals out as well? Ive always kept up with regular maintenance but i think the owners before me abused the hell of her.

[Astro14]

At best, cleaners will lighten your wallet. At worst, they'll damage the engine.

This isn't a case for cleaners. You've got a leak, fix the leak with a new seal.

Then, fix the cause: excess pressure. If it was neglected, then your oil passages are probably as filled with carbon as mine were. There is only one fix for that: pull the PCV off and rod through to the oil pan. Or pull the pan, and clean from below. If starting now, with all new parts in the system already installed, the oil pan might be the easier route, since there is no reason to pull the manifold...

[murderwagonv70]

Copy that Astro14. I'm gunna tear into it this weekend and see what i can see.