Time for maintenance: need your inputs

[monochamus]

Recently a box has arrived to my hands from IPDusa and I have a lot to do on my xc, but I would like to read any advices you can give me to don't commit a mistake doing the service:

-i have bought a new thermostat with gasket and new Volvo coolant OEM
- new radiator cap (aftermarket, OEM too expensive IMO)
-spark plugs Volvo OEM
-upper motor mount (i have vibrations on R)
-lower torque mount (gearbox)
-seafoam transtune (i hope it works on my shift issue, a hard or erratic downshift 5to 4th gear)
-new fuel filter Mahle
- new MANN air filter
I hope to do all this stuff and also:
- clean the MAF with the CRC MAF Cleaner (just maintenance)
- clean throttle body
-clean AC sensor with compressed air to clean computers

Any ideas or advices are welcome and waited
Gracias amigos!!
Thanks!!

[Antherzoll]

Don't over torque the plugs and double check the gap.

Personally, I wouldn't touch the MAF. Cleaning it could mess with it. Either replace it or leave it.

Dismounting the power steering pump from the accessory bracket provides great access to the lower thermostat housing bolt, but isn't necessary.

Cabin air filter?

Do you plan on removing the throttle body or cleaning it in place. Use a soft cloth and take your time. If cleaning it in place I'd remove the fan cowl, provides a world of difference for working under the intake manifold and is quite easy to remove.

Seafoam transtune? Good luck, let us know how it goes.

Upper motor mount - do yourself a favour and when you have the top engine cover off cut the piece that is blocking access to the bolt for the upper mount. If done cleanly it won't look bad and will make future removal a snap for any rear engine work.

[kutcht1]

I used the CRC MAF cleaner with no problems, but I guess at your own risk. Everything should be straight forward and only take a few hours. I always take my time and clean things and really check them over. Let us know how it goes, especially with this seafoam. I would do EXACTLY what is says on the can to the letter. I would not expect much but I guess worth a try as I have been in your position before.
TomK

[monochamus]

Do I need a special tool to replace te upper motor mount.?? Volvo says yes.. But which?

[jayo73]

If you use the seafoam you may want to flush the trans. That stuff breaks down the sludge that builds over time, especially in the converter. I just did a flush and what difference that made. The fluid was black like old motor oil but did not smell burnt so I used seafoam not sure if it did what it said it did but with the fluid looking like it did I didn't want to do just flush and dislodge any crud and then have disaster strike. So if your having shifting issueso you may want to do a flush.

[monochamus]

If you use the seafoam you may want to flush the trans. That stuff breaks down the sludge that builds over time, especially in the converter. I just did a flush and what difference that made. The fluid was black like old motor oil but did not smell burnt so I used seafoam not sure if it did what it said it did but with the fluid looking like it did I didn't want to do just flush and dislodge any crud and then have disaster strike. So if your having shifting issueso you may want to do a flush.
I have flushed the trans 1200 miles ago, so I have checked the atf and it is very pinkish . I dont want to flush again . i want to keep the seafoam in the trans, to see if it can fix my shift issue after a poor mechanic service. Seafoam says it is possible to mantain the transtune inside because it evaporates slowly,so it dont harm the trans

[monochamus]

is this normal or strut mounts are worn too???

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CEd4M3Nkxg0&feature=youtu.be

[JRL]

Neither of those are a strut mount (your post header)

Engine brace is supposed to move (can be made tight with two simple bushings.
The XC may handle a bit better but you may have a little more vibration at idle.

Upper torque mount seems to be normal. If it (the bushing, not the engine itself) had excessive movement fore and aft...THEN it's worn but it's not moving.

[Antherzoll]

Search "Bob Villa Mod". Pretty much 4 fender washer to make it a solid bar.

http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?70274

[monochamus]

Neither of those are a strut mount (your post header)

Engine brace is supposed to move (can be made tight with two simple bushings.
The XC may handle a bit better but you may have a little more vibration at idle.

Upper torque mount seems to be normal. If it (the bushing, not the engine itself) had excessive movement fore and aft...THEN it's worn but it's not moving.

The excessive movement does it when shift to R. I saw it when my wife shift to R and the upper mount moves with some violence. But do I need some special tool to replace the mount? I don't think so....
Jim, which bushings do I need to make it tight?
This thing may help? :115037 - ipd Strut Bar Mount Conversion Kit

[JRL]

You just need the little bushings themselves, the rest of the (expensive) kit is for looks.
The top mount is supposed to move a bit, if you put say a poly top bushing in, these cars then will suffer from vibrations (at idle) being an imbalanced 5 cylinder.
If someone is in the car, brakes on and shifts back and forth, drive to reverse while you're looking at it, the movement should be at least an inch+ back and forth, but if the engine moves 3" or so then you need a new upper torque mount.
They're only good for about 50K miles at best

[monochamus]

I have done the most of things in my car:

-i have bought a new thermostat with gasket and new Volvo coolant OEM (PENDING)
- new radiator cap (aftermarket, OEM too expensive IMO)------------(CHANGED)
-spark plugs Volvo OEM (CHANGED)
-upper motor mount (i have vibrations on R)---- VIBRATION DISAPPEARED- the R gear dramatically improved- CHANGED!
-lower torque mount (gearbox) (PENDING)
-seafoam transtune (i hope it works on my shift issue, a hard or erratic downshift 5to 4th gear) (PENDING)
-new fuel filter Mahle (CHANGED)
- new MANN air filter (CHANGED)
I hope to do all this stuff and also:
- clean the MAF with the CRC MAF Cleaner (just maintenance)---(CLEANED with no problems)
- clean throttle body (SUCCESSFULLY DONE )
-clean AC sensor with compressed air to clean computers (DONE WITH NO RESULTS)

note: as I said before, I did this just for maintenance; I was not having any car issues
I couldn't make all the services, but mostly of all was done with no issues....


the radiator cap replacement was obviously easy, but a comment: did not fit like the OEM, i had to press hard to fasten it.

the old spark plugs were out of service... the new spark plugs fit perfectly and runs OK
the upper motor mount replacement was laboriously hard, but absolutely necessary. now it shifts comfortably to R (maybe like new?)
the fuel filter was a 5 minutes work. I had no problems to replace it; same situation to air filter.
I did not pay attention to the Antherzoll´s advice and with my CRC MAF Cleaner, I took out the maf and sprayed it.
My MAF looks very different to what I have seen in other MAF designs. It was not dirty at all but I think it was worth clean it.
this thing was good: take out the throttle body. was for my almost a PITA but I did it and I´m very happy with the results. the TB wasn't too dirty but leaves my mind in peace.
I attached some pictures for public enjoyment and feedback.
as you can see, I put some gloves in the inlet of turbo pipes to avoid crap to get in.
thanks a lot for your support and advices!
muchas gracias amigos volvistas
69906991699269936994

[monochamus]

more pics
69956996699769986999

[monochamus]

If I have that level of sh**t or gunk in the TB and pipe inlets,would you expect more or less crap in the PCV?

[Antherzoll]

Well ultimately how the oil residue reaches the intake tract is through the PCV system, but unless you're having issues related to a blocked PCV I wouldn't worry about it. You can also expect your intercooler to have quite a bit built up in it as well, a good old hot soap and water treatment will rinse out a lot of it. You'll need to drop the radiator to clean the intercooler so it's your choice. Or you could be crafty and tap a drain plug on the bottom of your intercooler, disconnect the intake hoses, fill it with soapy water, and fill and drain it a couple times. Not sure if this will work, just some random pondering. I was going to look into this as a work around for cleaning mine instead of getting involved draining the coolant, but my intercooler is fairly new.