No start after doing PCV - connection, or...?

[sanfelice]

Can't figure this one out, has to be a connection somewhere, but the car started fine for about five days since I did the work.

When the key is turned, lights come on, but no ignition, no starter, etc.

The usual work to get to the PCV was done: intake manifold, fan, hoses, MAF, charge pipe, etc. I did not touch the PS or alternator for this.

Also, when disassembled, I didn't touch the starter connections (they looked good) but did, of course, disassemble the throttle body and clean it. The connection seems tight to the TB. So, what else could be causing this no start condition from just the work listed above? I'm stumped and we need this car working, as it's my wife's car!

[JRL]

Check your wiring and grounds

[vtl]

Try to remove small starter wire (the one for control solenoid, not the thick one for main power), clean contacts thoroughly and make sure they fit tight. Then apply some dielectric grease to prevent further oxidation and plug back. Fixed problem on wife's 2002 V70, which reappeared shortly even after new starter install.

[sanfelice]

Gotcha, thanks.

I am a "cause-and-effect" believer, so this must be the result of something I did whilst installing the new PCV box.

[Astro14]

I doubt that your PCV work caused this. Sounds like bad battery, bad antenna ring, bad spot on starter, or bad connection to starter.

If you turn the key, and it does not crank (crank is when the starter goes rrrrr, rrrrr, rrrr), then you either don't have enough voltage to the starter, or the voltage isn't getting to the starter. Start by getting a volt meter on the volt meter to check voltage. Next, put a test light in that small lead to the starter. If voltage is getting to that lead, it's the starter itself.

If no voltage is getting to the lead, you've got a problem with the anti theft circuitry, like the antenna ring...and you're likely going to have to get it towed to the dealer.

I believe in cause and effect- but correlation is not causality. There is a cause for your problem. If you messed it up by your PCV work, then it would likely have manifested itself right away...

[sanfelice]

No, there is no attempt at ignition. Lamps are all good, no dimming of lights, I tested the battery and it's good (two years old genuine Volvo), even put a charger on the car for a while. No effect.

I'm guessing that small wire to the starter was nicked while I was in there. Originally, I thought I would take it off and clean it while it was accessible, but nooooo... so now i get to reach in there and get to it. Or, of course, disassemble again, which I am pretty good at now.

[Astro14]

We need to clarify terms. "No attempt at ignition" doesn't mean anything if the engine won't crank.

Run = when engine is rotating by itself. Fuel is injected, spark ignites fuel. Car can be driven in this state.
Crank = starter engages. Engine rotates but does not run
Ignition = when spark plugs fire and fuel explodes in cylinder. This is part of run.
Start = when engine goes from off to run.

Your descriptions continue to add ambiguity to your problem.

I understand that you have an engine that won't start because it won't crank. Turn key, no noise, no starter moving engine. Ignition won't happen in this situation because the computer won't send voltage to the coils without seeng crank rotation (see crank angle sensor, or cam angle sensor, depending on the type of car).

Is that right?

[sanfelice]

I'm not sure what is ambiguous - there is no starter motor engagement, therefore no attempt at ignition. No "cranking," if you like. I don't know if there is fuel yet, but since everything ran prior to the recent work, I have no reason to suspect a fuel pump (and, that is usually not how a faulty fuel pump quits, of course). And, of course, the ECU is not going to flood the engine with fuel if there is no cranking, and therefore no spark. As stated in the first post, all lights do come on, the lights do not dim, and the battery tested good.

So, I am left with a silent sound when the key is turned. No cranking, no attempt at igniting those little plugs.

[Xheart]

Can't figure this one out, has to be a connection somewhere, but the car started fine for about five days since I did the work.

When the key is turned, lights come on, but no ignition, no starter, etc.

The usual work to get to the PCV was done: intake manifold, fan, hoses, MAF, charge pipe, etc. I did not touch the PS or alternator for this.

Also, when disassembled, I didn't touch the starter connections (they looked good) but did, of course, disassemble the throttle body and clean it. The connection seems tight to the TB. So, what else could be causing this no start condition from just the work listed above? I'm stumped and we need this car working, as it's my wife's car!

I always disconnect battery before doing smallest repair -- JRL reminds us often.
Did ya?
Astro's 7:43 post makes total sense.

[sanfelice]

Battery was disconnected, and for at least 10 minutes, which is what I found is a minimum time. Still, no luck.

Just to be clear, I don't believe the PCV work has anything to do directly with this, it's simply that the throttle body resetting itself after disconnection was my initial concern, but I'll be checking the starter connection and reporting back.

[vtl]

Before disassembling things, sneak you hand under intake and try to wiggle this connector. If the connector is the problem, the car will be starting ok for some time.

[Astro14]

The throttle body wouldn't have anything to do with the starter not engaging.

The engine will crank, start, and run with the throttle body disconnected.

The car will not drive in this instance, but it will start.

Have you checked the voltage at the starter yet?

[JRL]

Are you SURE the battery was disconnected?
If not, it's VERY easy to touch the starter the wrong way and fry it

[sanfelice]

Ha! Yeah, I am certain the battery was disconnected. I did it hoping for a reset. That didn't work.

What has worked today is to clean the contact on the starter spade connection. It was not off, but I had wiggled it during the PCV work. I guess that was enough to send the car into hiccups. So, I cleaned both connections, tightened up on the spade side and used some dielectric grease. So far, it's started the three times since completing the job a few hours ago. I did end up disassembling most things behind the radiator, as it just made it so much easier to get to. So as nothing comes without consequence, I broke off the dipstick pull, cracked a bit of the throttle body quick connect (no big deal, still tight), and broke off a bolt at the engine ground at the chassis (reattached at the strut rod mount). Ah, all in a day's work.

[gstallons]

Be in mind that dielectric grease is not a conductivity enhancer , it serves a different purpose. Google the word dielectric for the definition .

[vtl]

Be in mind that dielectric grease is not a conductivity enhancer , it serves a different purpose. Google the word dielectric for the definition .
Yeah, it's to keep moisture out of contacts. Will get things worse if a good contact is not secured in prior.