Front Intake Cam Seal

[JeffHicks]

6359

I think I found the source of my massive oil leak. :)

I'm going to replace the seal (obviously), reassemble everything and make sure I've got it running and the leak fixed.

Then, if all is well, I'm going to go back in and replace the timing belt and water pump.


Also going to do the PCV Oil Trap test. Pretty sure that's the cause behind the blown-out seal.

[Astro14]

That's exactly what happened to mine! Same seal, same failure.

The engine started leaking just a bit of oil on the timing belt side. I tested the PCV system, it had failed. Replaced the entire PCV system. Car seemed fine, then 500 miles later - big oil leak...and the seal had been pushed out just like yours.

So, the key question: are you going to do the crank seal and exhaust cam front seal? I did, figuring that I already had the timing belt off... To do them, though, requires a cam hold tool (for the back of the cams) and a crank position tool (that goes into a plug behind the starter) to ensure that you've got the timing correct as the pulleys go back on. The VVT Pulley is a bit of a PITA - lots of torque on the T55 bolt that holds it on, and then basically, you have to make certain that it's fully clockwise in relation to the cam itself before tightening the pulley back down. The rest is like finishing up a timing belt.

For the seals themselves, the intake cam front seal was easy, so was the exhaust cam front seal. I used a big socket (like a 46mm). For the crank seal, I used a piece of PVC pipe about 3" long to press it on evenly around the crank snout. Rear exhaust cam seal is easy as well, and to use the cam locking tool, you've got to remove the engine brace, and the plug on the back of the intake cam. You'll need a new plug, no way could I get it out without damage...but you're looking at the exhaust cam real seal as you use the cam locking tool, so replacing the seal at that point adds, like, two minutes to the job...

I would not bother with the PCV test - I would ABSOLUTELY replace the entire system...and since you've got the T-belt off, why not just do the water pump now? Then, if you've fixed the leaks, you don't have to R&R T-Belt again...

[JeffHicks]

I'm just going to replace this seal for now - unless there's additional leakage. Replace the oil trap & go.

Then I'm going to take a little time, do some research, and order a whole bunch of stuff from PartsGeek or RockAuto, then be ready to attack it in September, when I get a break in my schedule.

[Tahoe_XC]

I'm just going to replace this seal for now - unless there's additional leakage. Replace the oil trap & go.

Then I'm going to take a little time, do some research, and order a whole bunch of stuff from PartsGeek or RockAuto, then be ready to attack it in September, when I get a break in my schedule.

Why? You have to pull the intake to do the oil trap, which means the undoing and later reassembling the hardest half of the PCV hose system. Doing the whole hing will only add 15 min and guarantee the root cause of your problem is gone. Do not do it and you will likely be doing the seals again plus possibly the turbo.

[JeffHicks]

Why? You have to pull the intake to do the oil trap, which means the undoing and later reassembling the hardest half of the PCV hose system. Doing the whole hing will only add 15 min and guarantee the root cause of your problem is gone. Do not do it and you will likely be doing the seals again plus possibly the turbo.
Well, even though I'm in Omaha, I've found that absolutely no parts stores carry these parts - they all have to be ordered. I find that very odd, considering that I can readily get just about any parts for my '99 V70 with the same basic engine. And since all the parts have to be ordered, I might as well utilize PartsGeek or RockAuto, and save a bunch of money.

In the meantime, I'm going to leave the dipstick partially removed (for pressure relief) and am going to drive the car a bit before I tie into the rest of the work. That way I'll know if I've got any more seals leaking, or other problems.

[Astro14]

I would bookmark these two sites:

http://www.fcpeuro.com/

www.ipdusa.com

Both good companies. Both far cheaper than your Volvo dealer. Both ship at reasonable cost. Both sell complete kits for the work your doing, e.g. timing belt, tensioner, idler and cam seals at a discount.

For Bosch parts, and other standard items (e.g. MAF, ignition coils, filters) Amazon carries them, and if you're Prime, then it's free 2 day shipping.

As far as bundling your work and being efficient: I wouldn't run an oil-soaked timing belt. I wouldn't keep a new timing belt running on an old tensioner (the tensioner is what usually gives out). I wouldn't put a timing belt in a car with over 150,000 miles unless I did the water pump at the same time. To do the intake manifold twice requires two gaskets, two PS pump o-rings, two sets of crush washers, etc.

Do it once and do it right.

[JeffHicks]

^ Thanks for the links! I've gotten a lot of stuff from IPD over the years - starting back when I had my '89 240. But I'm unfamiliar with fcpeuro.com.

You do have me a little confused, though... Although I do plan on doing everything at once, why would replacing the timing belt (and possibly crank seal) involve removing the intake setup again, in order to get to the PCV Oil Trap?


Also... I haven't had this car very long. I'm going to check with the Volvo dealer who did all the work for the "rich old lady" I bought it from, and see if I can get any service records from them. The car has 206k on it, but if it had the timing belt, tensioners, and water pump replaced 20k ago, I'll forego replacing the water pump.

[Astro14]

If you don't do the rest of the PCV system this time, the intake will have to come off again...

If you don't do the water pump now, the timing set has to come off again...

Doing the crank seal now adds a few minutes to the job. Doing the exhaust cam now adds an hour, at least, because the upper mount, intake pipes, and starter have to come off to lock the cams from the rear and install the crank timing tool.

But again, it adds an hour or two now, instead of repeating all those steps in the future...completely understand only wanting to fix what's broke...but I am the kind of guy who wants to avoid future repairs...

I bought this set-up: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K0QRMHS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 about $100 on Amazon (less on eBay, but I have Amazon Prime, so shipping is both fast and free)...and better than making a homemade tool because it includes the crank timing tool...

I wouldn't replace a water pump with low miles, either...but my dealer in town says that they never replace WPs unless they're leaking...even on a 180K timing belt job...which I found interesting...

[JeffHicks]

UPDATE

So I finally got the correct seal, installed it, popped on the intake cam pulley & timing belt, and started her up. She runs fine - just like before - and there is no oil seepage of any kind.


I then checked my crankcase pressure by rubber-banding one of my latex gloves over the oil fill hole. No inflation. No pressure. Absolutely nothing.

What do you guys make of that? Is it possible that, with 206k on the ticker my intake cam seal just worked its way out? Or that somebody had previously replaced them, and not done it right?

Is it possible that the PCV Oil Trap system is NOT plugged?


If you were me, what would you do at this point?

[ssicarman]

As I understand the glove test what you want to see is the glove being pulled into the oil fill hole. This indicates that the PVC system is building a vacuum in the crankcase. Not seeing a vacuum is not a good thing.

[JeffHicks]

As I understand the glove test what you want to see is the glove being pulled into the oil fill hole. This indicates that the PVC system is building a vacuum in the crankcase. Not seeing a vacuum is not a good thing.
Thanks for the information!

Earlier today I was out fiddling with the car again (between mowing & trimming the lawn...). Did the glove test, ran the rpms up & held them there, idled, etc. The only thing the latex glove does is suck into the engine a little bit. To clarify, it creates a concave shape, but doesn't get sucked into the engine.

From everything I've read - and from what my other V70 does - it seems that this is exactly what should be happening.

I can certainly go the whole 9 yards with an all-new PCV Oil Trap system, but really don't want to if it's not necessary.


Your thoughts? Anyone?

[Tahoe_XC]

The rubber glove test suggests one thing, but the explanation of the cause of the popping seal remains elusive. All I can tell you is with the miles you have on your car I would replace the PCV system if it has not already been done. I have 3 XC70's and know there was various levels of clogging in each even when oil change intervals and correct oil type were adhered to.

The first one I did was my 01. At the time I was hesitant, did the glove test and got similar results... I had no other reason to do it other than I wanted long life out of the car. I was really surprised that the car which had Dealer services up to 28k miles followed by synthetic oil changes ever 7.5k there after had as much blockage as it did. Then I bought my 06 with a blown turbo which was caused by the PCV... On this car I did the PCV plus pulled, cleaned and replaced all the seals in the oil pan due to the total carbon.

My 04 I did at 98k... Very similar to my '01 expierence... My point here is our engines are prone to carbon buildup, really prone to it. Can it manifest itself intermittently and cause your seal issue? Don't know the answer, but three cars have convinced me that at higher miles it is a must!

My only question to you is do you want to be doing the replacement in the middle of the Ohmaha winter or when the weather is nice? My bet is you will be doing this in the near future given the seal.

[Hillbilly]

Your thoughts? Anyone?

New to you car....

Known issues with I5 motors...

Yours with a few miles and a blown seal...

Smart to address it now if for no other reason than peace of mind.

[Astro14]

Thanks for the information!

Earlier today I was out fiddling with the car again (between mowing & trimming the lawn...). Did the glove test, ran the rpms up & held them there, idled, etc. The only thing the latex glove does is suck into the engine a little bit. To clarify, it creates a concave shape, but doesn't get sucked into the engine.

From everything I've read - and from what my other V70 does - it seems that this is exactly what should be happening.

I can certainly go the whole 9 yards with an all-new PCV Oil Trap system, but really don't want to if it's not necessary.


Your thoughts? Anyone?

Rubber glove test checks the idle PCV circuit. It does NOT check the boost circuit. I've already said it once, but since you're asking for thoughts: replace everything in your PCV system and do it now to save yourself further heartache and failures.

Then, replace all the seals, front intake and exhaust, rear exhaust, and front crank. Replace the timing belt (because it got oil on it, and because you took it off) and because you don't know the last T--belt service, do the tensioner and pulley. Since the water pump is right there, and you have to do the timing belt to get to the water pump, do it now and save having to redo everything when it goes.

Cost: seals $30
Timing set kit: $120
Water pump: $80
Volvo coolant: $30
Volvo crank and cam tool: $100
PCV kit from IPD: $300

This isn't killer expensive...but repeating the steps over and over will wear you out, could leave you stranded and without a car when you need it. You're going to do it all eventually, why not choose the time when it happens?