front end pulling left

[Blade]

I brought this car (2007 XC70) to my mechanic for alignment. After alignment stilled pulled to the right. Car has 70k miles and new Pirelli's. No apparent collision damage to car. I purchased this with only one prior owner. Brought car back to mechanic for another alignment and two new front-end struts. Car still wanders left on flat surface. It feels as though there's too much play in the steering wheel. car seems to "float" at higher speeds as though the front end is not fully engaged with road. If I quickly turn wheel to left or right the cars seems to sway almost slide rather than sticking to road. Does anyone have any idea what to do next.

[howardc64]

I encountered a high right pull after installing new Michellin X + alignment about 25k miles ago. My steering was nice and tight with new tie rods and suspension (LCA bushings + struts) were all new. I've read people seem to encounter this fairly often with new tire installs.

The only way I corrected this was to play with the limited camber offsets (just the play between strut/steering knuckle, unbolt the 2 bolts, set to max +/- angle and tighten) to correct this pull. If you are pulling left, then set driver side camber to max negative and passenger side to max positive. See step #4 in the following resource link

http://www.volvoxc.com/0/resources/how-to/pdf/steering-vehicle-pull-on-acceleration.pdf

Double check the tie rod play and worn LCA bushings as well.

[Scopeman]

I don't know why these cars seem to be so sensitive to this. My car when it had the Pirelli Scorpions lead to the right, pretty strongly. Last November I replaced the tires with a set of Nokian WRG 3 tires.

The lead is completely gone, and the car drives straight as an arrow, with nothing else done, no alignment. The Scorpions wore perfectly, just worn out, so I didn't bother with alignment.

[Blade]

I don't know why these cars seem to be so sensitive to this. My car when it had the Pirelli Scorpions lead to the right, pretty strongly. Last November I replaced the tires with a set of Nokian WRG 3 tires.

The lead is completely gone, and the car drives straight as an arrow, with nothing else done, no alignment. The Scorpions wore perfectly, just worn out, so I didn't bother with alignment.



Dear howardc64 & Scopeman,

Thanks so much for all of your input...very helpful!

[vtl]

Check front LCA bushings. My XC70 was not pulling one side or other, but it was not stable on the road. Gone with new bushings.

Also check spring seats, if they cracked, you'll be floating as well (along with hearing clicks on lower speeds). No need to remove anything, just look closely from engine compartment.

Uh, one more thing. How bad is a rear toe?

[billr99]

I encountered a high right pull after installing new Michellin X + alignment about 25k miles ago. My steering was nice and tight with new tie rods and suspension (LCA bushings + struts) were all new. I've read people seem to encounter this fairly often with new tire installs.

The only way I corrected this was to play with the limited camber offsets (just the play between strut/steering knuckle, unbolt the 2 bolts, set to max +/- angle and tighten) to correct this pull. If you are pulling left, then set driver side camber to max negative and passenger side to max positive. See step #4 in the following resource link

http://www.volvoxc.com/0/resources/how-to/pdf/steering-vehicle-pull-on-acceleration.pdf

Double check the tie rod play and worn LCA bushings as well.

Howard:

I don't think your suggestions on camber are a good idea. Although you can minimize pull by doing what you suggest, that will only work in a given situation (ie. a given road camber) and as soon as that condition changes the unequal camber will have a different effect, probably adverse. Pulling can be caused by any number of things including incorrect toe, unequal tire pressures, some tire defect like a failed belt, torn LCA bushings, tight bearings, etc. By adjusting unequal camber into a car, you are going to induce variable handling characteristics side-to-side. That is, the car is not going to handle the same turning right or turning left. The best approach is to set camber and toe equally on each side and investigate other possibilities for any abnormal pull, keeping in mind those other things that can cause pull.

As far as a suggestion to the OP, I'd suggest taking the car to a different mechanic who knows what he is doing. It sounds to me as if there is a bad toe adjustment. On the assumption that getting total toe is not beyond this mechanic, then getting the toe adjustment incorrect side to side could create the the situation described. It would also be wise to go over the whole front suspension and verify that all the bushings, rode ends, ball joints, etc. are solid and performing as they should.

Cheers,

Bill

[howardc64]

Howard:

I don't think your suggestions on camber are a good idea. Although you can minimize pull by doing what you suggest, that will only work in a given situation (ie. a given road camber) and as soon as that condition changes the unequal camber will have a different effect, probably adverse. Pulling can be caused by any number of things including incorrect toe, unequal tire pressures, some tire defect like a failed belt, torn LCA bushings, tight bearings, etc. By adjusting unequal camber into a car, you are going to induce variable handling characteristics side-to-side. That is, the car is not going to handle the same turning right or turning left. The best approach is to set camber and toe equally on each side and investigate other possibilities for any abnormal pull, keeping in mind those other things that can cause pull.

As far as a suggestion to the OP, I'd suggest taking the car to a different mechanic who knows what he is doing. It sounds to me as if there is a bad toe adjustment. On the assumption that getting total toe is not beyond this mechanic, then getting the toe adjustment incorrect side to side could create the the situation described. It would also be wise to go over the whole front suspension and verify that all the bushings, rode ends, ball joints, etc. are solid and performing as they should.

Cheers,

Bill

Its a good point. Would be good if we have the typical true cause of the strong right pull after new tire installation problem. It seems to happen quite a bit on this car.

[billr99]

Its a good point. Would be good if we have the typical true cause of the strong right pull after new tire installation problem. It seems to happen quite a bit on this car.

My view is that it is the castor angles used in the P2 design. In an effort to have light steering, the castor angle has been designed a bit too low which reduces directional stability and camber gain. Unfortunately there isn't anything you can do within the normal setting provided in the design. On my car I set the camber as far negative and the toe-in as shallow in the spec as possible and it isn't bad as far as pull is concerned, but the car is still way worse at following road camber than my 800/S/V70 cars were. And that is regardless of what kind of tires I've run on it.

Cheers,

Bill

[JRL]

I've had several low mileage P2's pull or rather wander to the left or right especially after installing new tires.
First thing is cross rotate the front tires.
If that doesn't work you need to find a GOOD alignment guy who knows about front ends and knows how to adjust and compensate for this.
Sometimes it's the rear toe spec that's off enough to steer the rear which will give the same issue, pulling!
Usually it's it's done by adjustments to the front camber Sometimes he needs to be creative but again, needs to know what adjustment/setting causes what reaction and adjust accordingly
Just because a car is in "spec" does not mean it will always go straight